Okay.... so I am nearly there, I have sent the case off to be powder coated. All of my parts have arrived but.... (no laughing) How do you attach the fans to the radiator? LMAO I think I'm being retarded but cannot for the life of me figure this out. Do I need special screws?
Sigh. Why was that the only place I didn't look? Ha thanks. I cannot wait for the case to come back and get all of this stuff inside and running =)
Everything has arrived - I am just waiting for my case to come back from powder coating and I will then start assembling the components =) The 7970 will look rather pants without a backplate and I really didn't want a run of the mill EK backplate. Can anyone recommend me somewhere that does custom designed or at least something a bit more tasty Thanks
show off I like yours yes but I don't have the skills to draw one up I googled 'custom 7970 backplate' & this looked pretty rad and was wondering if anyone knew of places that might do something similar. http://imgur.com/a/0AFnC/layout/grid#0 I don't have much dollar left though so might have to settle for the EK plain black backplate.
Heres my 2 cents on watercooling. I learned to avoid pre-mixed solutions like AIDS. They offer no advantage but tons of disadvantage. I personally used deionized water from an auto supply store. Good enough for car radiators, good enough for a computer radiator. Did I mention its like $2-$3 for a gallon? People who sell you fluids tend to say a bunch of garbage and thats because they are trying to upsell you and im going to explain why you should just ignore them. Electrical conductivity. Yes some solutions are non-conductive and some are. However once you put it into a loop with metal blocks, some of the metal will dissolve into the liquid forming ions and make the liquid conductive. I saw a gfx card and motherboard go up in sparks from pre-mixed liquids. Just to show you that they are just as conductive as water. Galvanic corrosion. Many solutions are glycol based and that will inhibit galvanic corrosion however galvanic corrosion is not even a legitimate concern. Gone are the days of Stainless Steel and Aluminium blocks. These days you can only find copper or nickle plated copper, both metals are compatible so you can't possibly get galvanic corrosion. Algae. Im pretty sure if you don't use tap water you won't get anything. I personally never got algae and never bought a silver coil either. The longest I gone without changing water is a year and its fine. UV reactivity. Just get UV reactive tubes, they are sexy and they last longer. UV reactive fluids doesn't stay UV reactive as long as the tubes. One downside of pre-mixed fluids is that they can stain components and take forever to dry. Leave a drop of water on your table and its dried when you back home from work. Try the same with a glycol solution and you find it moist and sticky even after 2 weeks. Thats actually how I fried my gfx card. I left my motherboard to dry after I rinsed it from a spill. 2 days later and some liquid was still in the pci-e slot, wet enough to conduct electricity. That made my day. I do recommend compression fittings to secure the tubes. For newly installed loops, you can have a tiny leak on startup, or the heat from the system can loosen the tubes after a day or two. If you think compression fittings are expensive (my god they are) then try Koolance hose clamps. They are absolutely gorgeous and secure the tubes perfectly. My favorite tube type is 3/8" ID 1/2" OD. They go on barbs easier and they can do tighter bends without kinking. For fans, I recommend something at least 1200 RPM. You can always buy the fastest fan and then slow them down with a fan controller. New motherboards have very nice fan control software and there are some nice LCD fan controllers too. I have Gentled Typhoons running at 1200 and I sleep with it on. This is one of my old pictures. The UV reactive tubing looks great. I can't take a picture of my current build because my phone died but perhaps soon.
Thanks for the input R_W however I've already bought everything now lol. I will take it all into consideration for next time though. Just hoping this one will go smoothly. I can't wait for my case to be returned now
I have just found out that the Asus MAX VI Formula's waterblock is made from aluminium rather than a more preferable material, copper. After doing some reading if the coolant has corrosion inhibitors it shouldn't make a difference. Reading up on the Mayhems website after going for the Pastel Red it says the following Great news I thought then I read this below it Well I've already bought the coolant and the tubing which is a p!ss take now lol Knowing this what is the quality like of the XSPC FLX Clear Tubing? I'm just slightly concerned now.
I think you'll find that the waterblock on the Asus MAX VI Formula has a copper tube inside the aluminium.
Not what the North American rep has said over on the ROG forums. And also on the HardForums http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040088868&postcount=5
I'll try and find the thread but I'm pretty certain Bindi said it was copper. Edit: I can't find the thread but I now think it was a previous version of the ROG board. I'd be very surprised if Asus were stupid enough to use even anodised aluminium but you never know.
Ah I was hoping you were going to prove me wrong but seems Asus have gone for a cheap option. I know that the motherboard doesn't need to be watercooled but asthetically I thought it'd look great with my new build. I'm not even sure if I should bother getting that board any more. Not sure what to do... Get a Hero and then buy EK-WB for the mosfets when they are released? Meh.
