First things first: Sorry for my English, I don't speak / write very well I want you to introduce to my current project - DeskPC . The name of the project says quite a lot about the "Case". This is a PC, which is implement / set into a table, and can be viewed through a window. More details can be found then the sketches and pictures. Because I started the project already there are some pictures and post they don’t shows the status of the current status / variant. But please feel free to ask me (similar) question to "old" posts. Please also note the first sketches are no longer consistent with the current status from the foot here! After the DCMM Modding doldrums I thinking about a new theme / Case. It should be something that does not go broken on the journey to Cologne but damage Palas car more I know you can not do anything for it , as well as the break down of my side part before Cable1 interview I will thanks my supporters / sponsors for the support at this project: Red Bull Deutschland, Enermax, Aquatuning und Phobya So you also know what I'm talking and what Pala has ruined here is the link to my first project, the " TheCube " Worklog and Final Pics It is not difficult to derive from the title, it is a DeskPC. How do I know myself , it will probably remain in the name, so that everyone immediately knows, what it is about General for Case / Desk structure and materials. The case is to be made of wood, glass and steel. Let's start at the bottom of the foot and work our way up. The foot should be slanted / bent, and have a large footprint . The skeleton of the foot to be covered with 1- 2mm sheet steel . Sheet steel , therefore , that I can weld it and it creates a massive impression. With steel, it is also a step up further , at the sheath of the actual table. Anyone who has followed my last project, has mind I do not do not do it the easy way - it will always look elegant. This time it will also be more stable and will not have so many holes To the internal of the table, where the main form is specified. The scaffold is a lot easier than from the cube . It consists of 10 boards with a thickness of 4 cm and a width of 160cm . The boards are required in a distance of 4 cm , and thus form a depth 76cm from the table . In the first attempt to open this topic and I could no longer submit, I noticed that a depth of 84cm would be possibly better as a board only between 0.5 cm and 2 cm thick. The boards are later between 5.5 cm and 20cm high, which is derived from the angle at the front and the sides. I like elegant designs like this time but would like to bring also some aged / used look to the steel. The elegant and used look to be combined, which is determined to look good. The sheet is to be primed, painted and primed and then ground more or less again. The sites, which are completely sanded, will then be contacted with a solution to rust. Whether I want to stop the rusting later with clear lacquer or simply leave more rust I do not know. It depends mainly on the residue on your skin and fabric. As you can clearly see the long shot is the view of the table. Here you can see the combination of noble looks with the Nussbaum boards and the steel foot with the machined steel as the shell of the table. For the MB as well as the terms and conditions a bulge is sawn into planks of wood and the hardware mounted directly on the boards. NT, pump and Radiator will be behind a simple white plexi glass . In the pictures you can see the taper outward -up to 4cm . Reinstalled my NB the last few days on vacation and am therefore I come back to continue to plan / test . Got the table now increased to 170x84 because I simply more space and therefore no 'll have to thin parts later. I have also been thinking , how do I connect the boards together. Here is the solution that I've collected along with Pala . There are 20mm threaded rods pulled through the entire depth of the table and provided with spacer sleeves . There will be a total of 6 threaded rods in the table, which should make the promotion of stability . The lower threaded rods are mainly because that the distance remains the same above and below . The boards are well later also bolted to the sheet metal and thus also kept at a distance. The table has also get a bigger foot, whether he will but later look like is still questionable.
Thanks! Now the next "update" of the DeskPC - so we cam closer to the current status. I'm building first of all only the upper part of wood and then must be in the course of construction of the new design foot again, because the current design would bounce too much. The wood weighs probably already around 80kg or more, and then there's the weight of that, if you rebels. Overall, I expect with just 200kg the feet should endure . The new feet are attached to the tongue and groove principle from the bottom and put on the braces from above. Today was just after the business at the Bauhaus and I bought 2 Beech - glued panels with dimensions 3000x625x40mm . One of the two plates I have cut into 3 20cm strip, of these, 6 20cm struts on which also the MB is attached. The second plate I still have quite calmly, because the remaining struts are all different heights. Apart from the fact that the plates did not fit into the car and I 've used all securing straps that I had. My basement is probably about 3.5 m deep . Let's see how the plates will fit, in the small space . After bit of redecorating I had placed the boards. Now is my second bike in the bedroom. Will probably even more highly cleared in the apartment so I have more space in the basement / workshop. Unfortunately, I wanted more present today but am not progressed as much as I wanted. Except for some small dark spots , the wood looks really good. First, it went to the signs of the slopes for the first 6 boards today. The board width of 3m is the same size that I get 2 struts per board ( 3000x200mm ) . As you can see, is not much space between the two slopes . The saw blade should therefore not be larger than 4-5mm. After I drawn everything, I wanted to saw the boards. You may well know , it has not really worked well. Will therefore probably buy a new blade on Monday and try it again to me
Looks like a cool and unique concept for a desk case. Are you still planning to cover the top in steel sheets? Because I think it would look really good without that. That wood looks beautiful by the way. Are you using a rotary saw? Have you thought about using a jig saw? With a jig saw you wouldn't need to worry about the blades being too thick or the wood being scotched. Although if you use a cheap one the cuts might end up not being at a right angle to the surface of the board. I am having a bit of trouble reading your log. No offense, but are you using a translator program? Maybe you could have somebody help you translate. That would really help people to follow your log. Anyways, good luck with your project and I am looking forward to future updates.
I'm using a rotary and a jig saw and also a router. There I used the rotary saw because of a exact cut. I did't want to rasp all 11 planks that they have the same angle The "problem" is that this is an old status of this project, so I can't use your tips but I like it when someone know a better or faster variant to do this. At the moment I cut all holes for the radiator and there I only use the jig saw and the router. Yes I'm using a translator program but only for coping my updates, so it's faster than translate it by myself. I will try to double-check my translated update before I post them. Like I said at the beginning of the thread, my english is not the best one but I will try my best.
After the business I was at the Bauhaus and bought a new blade to begin with the sawing. It's the same, only sharper - it worked and that's the main thing. Also, I've still leave sawing my second tabletop - I have not measured it. The first board took the longest but gradually I know how it works. The first two boards was sawed and yielded a total of 4 struts. The struts are here in the original distance. When I cut all the boards they will be adapted to each other, am still very satisfied with the result.
The beveled surfaces are now also smaller - you know it coming to an end. An interim report of the evening to get along with the gradation recognizes - but here are still missing two struts. Unfortunately, the wood has warped slightly, but you will not see it later. I have miscalculated the wood, but the remains are enough for that. Now the cutouts and the bevels come off. In the pictures you can see very well the bevels on the sides and at the front. The edge is now even further flattened to a section to receive instead of 3 faces 5 faces. This afternoon I saw the additional faces into the struts. At first glance, the faces can’t be seen, but what is intended. Next, I cut the openings for the MB.
Thanks ALi! And here we go again! At the weekend I had time again, and have sanded all faces. The dark line is a gap between the two struts. One sees clearly that there is a difference in the height of the struts, but only a small one. After the half, I've noticed that the dust is not sucked out. I opened and cleaned the belt sander he saw afterwards like that. My stock of 60, 80, 100 and 120 sandpaper.
I will oil it, so it's looks more elegant than without / natural. My current favorite is to mount the radiator on the bottom and secure with a plexi glass. The fan would show like at the image down. In the rear part is between the fan and wood a 4cm square , but the air can escape in all directions. First I made a template so that the copying ring does not move to the wrong directions. Before it could begin with the milling, had to first be aligned with the copying ring using the centering pin. My router is 10x50mm, even at the highest position it looked out but at this project I need such a big router. From the test pieces I have no pictures but they looked exactly same . So I have provided all 11 boards and one side with the groove. I've made in two steps / stages. On the last part very little wood is chipped. Unfortunately, here is a piece of chipped , which I 'll also be replaced . Next, it was time to mill the recess MB which worked wonderfully . After that, I have dedicated myself to the holes and this first straight sawn and polished . At last I went to the remaining grooves. I have cut a wedge and "screw " it to the brace to prevents the chipping.
Yep, ok... I've decided. After much ummm-ing and ahh-ing .. This is my favourite desk build ever. Lovely concept, awesome original design. Cant wait to see more.. Have you decided what kind pipe/tubing you'll use for your loop?
Looks like you've made some fantastic progress since the initial posts with the renders. I'll be looking forward to the updates.
