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Planning aluminium frame

Discussion in 'Modding' started by phinix, 18 Nov 2014.

  1. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Guys, I came up with a nice plan to build a frame for my project case and now I'm trying to figure out how am I going to actually build it:D
    There are few bits that I'm not sure how I'm going to mount, maybe you guys have a good idea/more experience than me.

    This bit here is showing aluminium base plate which corner is going inside a cut out 1/4 of the round bar. This is 40mm round bar, as you can see the cut out will be 20mm deep, right to the center of the bar.

    [​IMG]


    Here is how the rod looks like.

    [​IMG]

    Now, what are the ways I could mount this plate to that bar? Only one I see is drilling and taping a hole there, as showed on the sketchup. But how on earth I'm going to drill a hole there in so narrow space? I may not be able to stick a drill there, what do you guys think?
     
  2. Trance

    Trance Two steps forward, one step back

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    A very long drill bit? Either that or drill from the bottom and use a nut, or maybe 1/4 of a round bar taped that would act like a nut.
     
  3. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Ha!:) Why I didn't think of that :duh:- you're right - drill from the bottom - bottom will have only 3cm to drill through.

    Could use those drilling/tapping drill bits.
    I never used them.
    [​IMG]

    Are they good, easy to use?
     
    Last edited: 18 Nov 2014
  4. Teelzebub

    Teelzebub Up yours GOD,Whats best served cold

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    You could use a flexi drive in the drill, and drill a hole and tap it out.

    It's only aluminium so pretty soft.
     
  5. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Alright, do you mean like a flexi shaft for dremel?
    Is there same for drill? Would it be strong enough for M4 bit?
     
  6. Teelzebub

    Teelzebub Up yours GOD,Whats best served cold

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    Yes and yes.

    I've been drilling and tapping about 200 hole's the last few days I've found that a 4.5 drill bit works well for a M5 tap so use a 0.5 smaller drill bit than the tap size and use some oil with the tap I screw the tap in a few turns and then back a couple to release the swarf and if it's feeling tight
     
  7. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Alrighty - so for M4 it would need to be 3.5mm.
     
  8. Teelzebub

    Teelzebub Up yours GOD,Whats best served cold

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    yup :thumb:
     
  9. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    3.3mm to be exact, but 3.5mm will work as well if that's what you happen to have.

    Find a Metric Tap Drill Chart. Read it, memorise it, love it. :thumb:

    I would also adapt your design plans to make it easier to build and assemble. Form follows function, not the other way around.
     
    Last edited: 18 Nov 2014
  10. craig - toyoracer

    craig - toyoracer Minimodder

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    If you only have 3cm, I would drill and tap then screw the plate down. Also drill your tap size through then drill 2cm with larger drill say 4.5mm and then tap the 1cm material more than enough holding power. :)
     
  11. GiraffePencils

    GiraffePencils What's a Dremel?

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    When doing my case I used the 4.5 then the 4.2 (M5 Screws) and I have to say it felt more secure with the proper drill bit, I got one for a couple of quid.

    So it might be worth getting yourself the 3.3
     
  12. Teelzebub

    Teelzebub Up yours GOD,Whats best served cold

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    Actually that chart is pretty useful, I've been tapping in 8mm steel so it was fine
     
  13. jebk

    jebk What's a Dremel?

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    Assuming you can fabricate that bar I assume you could also mill a groove into it to accept the plate? Depending what the rest of the structure ends up looking like (i.e. assuming you're doing that on 4 corners with something else attaching the poles I'd guess you'd be able to manage to get it to sit tight in those.

    Alternatively (and assuming its not going to be too exposed or impact on anything else, could you attach a gusset either underneath or on top and bolt that up?
     
  14. Big_malc

    Big_malc Minimodder

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    All Hail Zeus lord and master
     
  15. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Well, this is the plan:

    [​IMG]


    4 of them on each corner, then 6mm thick plate on top holding top ends of those rods.
    That is why I need to screw down bottom panel to those rods to hold it all together at the bottom.
     
  16. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Ooooh! Need!

    40mm aluminium bar is heavy and chunky. Just check what it will look like IRL.
     
  17. GuilleAcoustic

    GuilleAcoustic Ook ? Ook !

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    That would make a nice mould for sand castle :). Great design, as always
     
  18. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Yes, but 1/4 will be milled off each bar, so thought it would take off a bit of a weight.

    IRL? Sorry, what's that?
     
  19. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Thanks:) Yep, first thing that came up when showed it to my daughter:)

    It's one of few designs I have for new build, so not 100% settled yet, but I like the idea of round rods:)
     
  20. Umbra

    Umbra What's a Dremel?

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    Used them for years, the go to pocket reference but they never used to cost as much, you can often buy them cheaper on ebay.
     

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