Ok folks most people know of me by my overclocking adventures and by my last work log 'Sumerian Cry; This one will be the second of the Ancient Sumerian mods and this is called the Standard of Ur' As of 24/02/2016 now sponsored by Raijintek This mod is based on the standard of Ur that was found in the royal graves of Ur (Sumerian Urim) circa 2600BCE uSING THE WONDERFUL lian li pcd 800 CASE this willl go on the left panel war banner this will go on the right panel peace banner front panel 3d printed this depicts the sumerian goddess of the netherwold Erishkigal A few more images of this behemoth of a case. Here we can install a 420mm radiator. It does have the final holes for 120mm based radiator but do not be deceived-the fan spacing is incorrect for this 360mm rads The divider between the motherboard and the radiator sections. More of those drive cages At the side of one the drive cages is the retainer that has 3x120mm fan fittings to cool the hard drives. Here i just loosely placed the radiators in order to judge distances and sizes. Obviously i have just loosly placed the radiators and much modding work needs to be done here. The 360mm rad is resting on the outside lip of the case so it looks like it doesn't fit. Reality tells us that the depth of the case is fine (bottom panel and underside of the 5.25" bays) however the width is not do to the drive cages being there. Let us unscrew the side and top panels and examine things more closely shall we? OK it is time to move onto the next section MODDING PART 1
Modifications Part 1 As we saw in the last section the 360mm rad does not quite fit, due to one section of the drive cages being in the way. So off we go inspecting.......... Now looking at the cages themselves they are actually riveted inside the chassis. Now here i think this is a small mistake by LIan li and they should have use screws or bolts here instead. But let us try and get around this issue by some simple modifications. Now there is a small but little known trick on how to remove the rivet heads. I have heard some people use a drill bit the size of the rivet head itself. Personally I think this is incorrect as one could actually make a wider hole than there was before. Example is the rivet head is 4mm in width, then use a 3 or 2mm drill bit and so on. The trick is and especially with an all aluminium cases and such as the Lian Li PCD 8000 is to drill slow but sure otherwise you may scrag the material (the aluminium) Drill just enough to break the head and NO more. as this will then allow the re-installation of the drive cages without getting larger screws or rivets if the situation becomes necessary Off we go to do this task so here we go and take the whole chassis outside. Now before we go on with this section I have marked the rivets which must be taken out prior to removal of the HDD cage. first of all lets get rid of this long of rivets Next we remove the rivets from the bottom. If you look closely the holes are countersunk to allow the rivets to sit flush with the surface of the case. Next we can see that my rivet drilling technique has not caused any issues with the aforementioned system and the holes still look clean. Next for the rivets at the bottom of the 5.25" caddy. BEFORE AFTER One side of the drive cage falls down Inside after the bottom rivets are removed A few photos of the case after all rivets have been drilled out for that drive cage. a primochill 240mm rad grill has been added to show the sheer scale of this case. Next thing it is on my desk at home and its staring me in the face that is the Lamptron FC9 fan controller, its like BEGGING me to modify it.
Fan controller and DVD BURNER MOD The whole theme of this case will be a copper and black theme. Take one dusty old lamptron fc9 fan controller (great product btw) and let us give it a new lease of life........... Ok let us take this blighter apart shall we? Now on the first pcb we encounter white dividers in order to prevent light bleed from one channel to another..... Which in itself is a bit odd as ALLS THE COLOUR channels are the same... Same colour as one can see. Now looking at this we can see the dividers are WHITE which is the optimum colour to reflect like back, unless you use a MIRRORED SURFACE, which hopefully should increase the light per channel Another issue with these dividers is that they are only SEMI-opaque===oops not optimum for light reflections...... After spraying the dividers with chrome paint... Now i know there is no need to spray this part as it is hidden by the front most panel. still one would like to do it. Volcanic Ash Black Ok after cleaning of the front panel plus 3 light coats of primer, here is the first coat of the metallic copper paint. After two more layers which are then allowed to dry plus FOUR layers of lacquer we get this: Next we assemble the controller, however we do not re-insert the handles as of yet. Next up we do the handles Again I use a volcanic ash black colour. once these are dry and had their clear protective layer sprayed on, it is on with the final assembly......... After one month to allow all the paints and the layers to settle down we buff up the controller and we get a nice reflective finish... HAHAHAH propped up on my baby blue inhaler for colour comparison... LOOKING GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD Next up...the dvd burner more coming in a moment
DVD BURNER mod Now bare in mind of the copper and black theme of the mod..... Take one old dvd burner (which hardly anyone uses these days) This where it took it apart, next will be the process on how i did it. Power eject the tray and pull out the sata power without shutting off the system otherwise the disc tray will close..... Once competed the tray should remain ejected. Next look on either side and underneath the dvd burner there should be a system of tabs like the image shown below. Use a smjall flat-bladed screwdriver to disconnect all the tabs and then the cover should slip out but not completely off. On the front of the tray there should be a bezel which needs to be removed before the whole front cover comes off.. once removed the front cover/bezel should come off....... Now unscrew the top cover This should be what you see. after the usual keying/primer more keying this is what you get. first layer of copper spray Ok here im going to cut a long story short......after primer copper spray lacquer 1 month waiting time, polishing and buffing you will get this........
Just an aside-does Urim have a Sumerian meaning? In Hebrew, the Urim and Thummim (the Lights and Perfections) were used to discern the will of God in certain disputes. Nobody really knows what they actually were, only that the chief priest apparently carried them in his clothing. I really, really like this. I expect good things from this mod, same as your last. Just wanted to drop that reference in there, I figure you'd be interested in some history of the area.
Yes my friend Urim is the Original Sumerian name for the City of Ur (pronounced oo-er) If we take the Tablet of Ur-Nammu for instance we have this Lugal Urim, ka ma this translates into the following King of Ur, however in Sumerian it is written as Urim. Actually 'LU-GAL' literal translation means big-man. We break the two concepts (as remember much of Sumerian Cuneiform represents concepts and ideas rather than words per-se) Lu-Meaning 'Man' with the divine sense being Nammu-Lulu Gal meaning Big so Lugal though we call it as king literally means big man king of urim =big man of urim
First radiator painting (21/02/2014) As this is a Sumerian build the radiators will have to be painted in Bronze. The reason for this is that the Ancient Sumerians were the FIRST to smelt it. In these photos i have NOT used any specialist MODDING paint or decorative paint just standard HYCOTE car paint. however certain techniques can be employed. The effect I am after is a aged TARNISHED bronze! All my paint work I have used RATTLE CANS and not a compressor. First up the idea was a TARNISHED bronze. I pickup one my old XSPC radiators RX 360 de-grease the surface, dry and give it a light run over by 800 grit wet and dry...... finally i use blue low-tac masking tape to protect the fins, as they have to remain black. After two coats of hycote grey primer (light sanding of each surface) i apply one coat of antique gold After leaving it one hour to dry i lightly key the surface for the second coat of the same colour. Now here is where it differs from the usual painting techniques and apply the next coat WHILST THE last layer of gold is still wet! This is so the colours can blend in nicely. Here is where i am faced with a serious issue, AZTEC bronze is far too red, ROMAN bronze looks the colour of metallic POO! So the technique is to combine the too. whilst the last layer of gold is still wet apply one layer (thin coat) of aztec bronze and NEPTUNE GREEN, the latter colour for the tarnish effect. I know this colour doesn't look red, but trust me it does (the flash ruins the paint colour) Next leave this to dry and blend in nicely with the aztec bronze. 2 HOURS later repeat the above (light sand) aztec bronze and neptune green but WHILST WET apply ROMAN bronze. This part is more art-form than science as essentially you need to USE the spray cans like scetching pencils. Use the roman bronze and spray or scetch in the darker colour until you get this........ I will append this post with a photo of the spray can colours used and when Iam ready to use a clear glossy protective layer
Finished Radiator all Laquered up Radiator finished and all lacquered up. I will try to take better photos so you can see the metal flakes during the day tomorrow.
Drilling holes to support a THIRD high performance radiator With some trepidation, drilling out fan holes out of the bottom of my case as a: This is a £300 case b that the circular saw i had wasn't fit for the job and I don't have a jigsaw. At least i have the trusty MNPC template ..so old school modding it is then........ Drill out a load of 5mm holes and then link them together by using the cutting tool on a dremel! all ENDS WELL YAAAAAAAAAAY a nice fit at the end of the day. LOVELY MAYHEMS 240MM radiator there Just begging to be painted like the rest of the radiators.
Motherboard tray The super massive motherboard tray that comes with the LIAN LI PC-D8000 is rather boring -time to paint it. after paint and before POLISHING Due to the dim light it does look a little DULL for copper doesn't it? Rest assured that it is much more reflective than this.
MOBO tray and motherboard Using the MSI BIG BANG XPOWER 2 x79 motherboard with a 3960X ES cpu. NOTE: The Raijintek CPU block. EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEW why has the flash given the copper board a horrible ORANGE colour?
After motherboard tray polishing ... Sliding in the motherboard tray as A TEMP MEASURE just to see how things are going so far we can see the TRUE COLOUR of the motherboard tray paint job and how highly reflective the polish was. In addition take note that I have used a different copper paint on the t-virus res end CAPS. NOTE a RAIJINTEK RES will be placed here and the T-VIRUS will be placed in front of the 360mm radiator. Note the proper colour of the motherboard tray and now and how highly reflective it is of the res. Note the tubing looks old and used that is for the reason that it IS. Don't worry it will NOT be re-used i jUST had it from a previous setup and used it to fill the radiator with mayhems BLITZ pro part 1 and then part 2
