Alright, time to get some reservoir action going. Decided that the "make it work" solution just wasn't going to cut it at this point This is a 1-7/8" thick chunk of acrylic, I cut down to get a couple blanks for this res. Had to take the dust boot off for the o-ring groove, as I couldn't get the router low enough with it on, with out a bunch of fiddling with it This was the "first run" aka prototype, fresh off the CNC, before flipping it and milling out the back side This is the full setup, with the Watercool pump-top-res middle piece.... thing It needed some tweaks to move some things around a little, so a second "improved" version was made It sure is a tight squeeze All that was left, was to do a leak test with the whole setup At 100% speed, it seems to work a little better on its side, due to air recycling from the high flow, but I think that'll calm down once I have it in a system to slow it down a little I'm currently adjusting the model to get rid of the Watercool pump top in the middle. I'll also be adding a fill port, probably, to make life a little easier. Other than that, I'm pretty happy with this res, first time I've made my own res, and probably the most complex part I've made on the CNC so far Thanks for checking it out
Nice one! -Also, Where did you find a long mill bit with a 1/4" shank? 1/4" is kinda unusual in actual mill bits. I see chatter near the bottom of your outer cuts. I suspect it's because you didn't clean the chips out since you did a finishing pass. You probably could have gotten away with half the screws with that thick of a cover plate. NOW...On to a pump top.
Thanks Cheaps! Bits&Bits is where I got the long flute 1/4". https://bitsbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=102_185 You are correct, I didn't clean it out, and I think I should have gone maybe a little bit slower with the feedrates too, since it was quite a ways down there. I was thinking that when I put all those screws in there, but I wanted to have all 4 around the o-ring on the bottom right, and at that point wanted to keep the spacing somewhat consistent lol I'm still messing around with the design a little to skip using the watercool pump-top-res-thing in the middle, so I may revisit things a bit all around
Next question: How bad does that bit scream? I have some long 1/8" bits that do this horrific ultrasonic scream when facing a deep pocket. It even makes your teeth hurt.
Thanks Canard! Not terrible, actually. This was during the adaptive clear for roughing, so it's a much heavier cut than the finishing passes (didn't have any video of those). Headphone users be warned, it's a CNC router
I need your tool for some massage of my back !!! If you give me yours, maybe I'll install it in my Renault Twingo car !!!
***. All I heard is router. -Kinda the reason I got the mill I have. So we're censoring ' U g g ' Now? Can't offend the cavemen, can we?
Not sure why I didn't get the notification for this message... Yeah, I've been thinking about replacing the spindle in mine, but most of the spindles I've been looking at have been 3 phase 220v, and I don't want to move the CNC over to the other side of the shop (because I'd have to move a bunch of other stuff, including dust collection drops). I'm not opposed to 3 phase with a VFD, as that's how I'd get my variable speed (and how I have my big wood lathe setup), but my issue is that getting a VFD that can run on 110v GFCI circuits (so I can leave it where it is), is difficult and limiting in capacity. So I keep debating lol Don't really want to run a 220v extension 20' across the shop every time I want to use it lol
I'd wire up a 220 outlet in the ceiling... In a heavy-duty fixture, of course. I'd hate to have the box pull out because of the cord weight.
I might consider it if I end up wanting to upgrade spindles, but would also heavily consider other tool arrangement too. I've got a L5-20P in the middle of the ceiling (where it would be swapped to a standard plug if a garage door opener was ever installed). I have 8 L6-20P's over on the far wall of the shop, where the Jointer, Planer, and Lathe all are, but since they're all over there, there's no room for the CNC lol. I've got a 10AWG extension cord for them, if needed, so I could always just use that too.
After finally getting things all cleaned up and ready to be worked on again, I realized I was actually not that far from putting everything together. So that's precisely what I started doing, in preparation for filling and actually running this thing Not many pictures this time around, but here are a few of the loop all installed. Kind of anti-climactic, given there's only 2 lines to run lol Thanks for checking it out!
It looks like push fit was the only choice for getting a tube from the cpu to the gpu. Getting in there to push the disconnect lug, though... Have fun with that. Bit has gone from EU stock PEX fittings, to fancy custom fittings, and now you are back to the PEX. You got the covid gut too, I see.
hahaha, no added covid gut here, I've actually managed to not gain more than 5 pounds since it all started, that's just always been there, especially when I lean on the table right at belt level That and the 11mm lens is not kind in the periphery... that's my story and I'm sticking to it I actually lucked out with the space I had for the dual GPU bracket and was able to use a Swiftech SLI connector to go from the CPU to the GPU, so that one's actually the "easy" one lol. I didn't really have a reason to use the push fittings, I just wanted to try something different lol
Got the whole thing filled up and running, though not finalized just yet. Ran through some testing of it, and messed around with power supplies some more, and then talk about how I'm running both GPUs in an ITX setup