G-gnome's Orac³ - Part 2

How much did this thing cost?
I havnt read everything yet, i just saw this Orac but it is goddamn cool

 

an awful lot...but it did not matter as it is a piece of art

no exact price was given and i don t think any will be given...

 

Please don't start the money questions again . A mod like this is expensive.

 

Yes, that plexi will be uv reactive. A little lesson - anything that is clear and neon WILL be uv reactive - fact of life. Also, white plastic is UV blue reactive. Always True.

 

Woow, great work G-gnome.
It's a mod inspired by the gods

But I do have a question.
Don't know if it has been asked before but,
I see your rad is just behind your 4 Hard disks.
If I'm right, your fan on the rad blows cold air inside the case.

FAN --> RAD --> HDD --> CASE

Won't the HDD's obstruct the airflow too much or heat up the air too much?

It's just a question i was wondering
Of course it's not dramatic when this happens.

sry for my grammer errors

 

OK, what I ment was if it is the same fabric?
Is Neon plexi the same as UV plexi?

 

I'll certainly ask them for you if I go there, but I may not be going there for a while, as I have all the plexi I need for the rest of the case.

Another title for this plexi is 'flourescent green' so I do suspect it will glow under UV. Did you specifically want a UV plexi or do you just want to make sure your suppliers coloured 'UV Reactive' will look similar to my 'neon' plexi? The 'neon' is really just a colour description for the type of green-colour in the plexi I bought. If it glows it's really just incidental as I don't believe any special UV particles or material were specifically embedded in it or anything?

I'm really not sure - might be one to throw open to the 'Modding' section of the forums?? The one way to be sure would be to buy a small piece from your supplier and check it out visually (and UV test it) - might be the only way to be sure. Often they have off-cuts you can get for free or dirt cheap and so pay very little to get them sent (assuming your supplier is not local)? Perhaps try this from them - it would make sure you got it right. With plexi being so expensive, you'd really want to make sure you got exactly what you wanted.

 

Yes the HDD will heat up the air coming into the case, but that is somewhat of the point... in heating up the air coming into the case it is cooling the HDDs, which is a good thing. You will find that most cases you buy now have fans sucking cool air in from the outside and blowing over the internal HDDs...

 

The third article based on this project log is up on the main site now -

Orac³ - Part 3

The fourth one should follow in a week or so.

Enjoy!



AsEel - ////\oo/\\\\ pretty much explained the reasoning with the HDD and rad setup in the post above. My HDD rack is in the same position as it was in the original Lian Li case it came from (where it had 2 x 80mm fans blowing on it instead of the 1 x 120mm in this case). Hope that explains things well enough?

 

what about the fifth one?

anyways i've been trying to find out how you polish your acrylic but most of the time you just mention that you polish them. How do you do it? How do you polish the edges of ur acrylic?

Right now i have gray tinted acrylic and when i use the torch method, it melts the tint and makes it look horrible. The other way i thought of was sanding.... but i was hoping you had a different method so i could save my arm for some future modding

 

Thanks mate
I want the look to be the same as yours. I really like the glow in it. I'll send you an email with more info.

 

With your watercooling setup, how are you going to know if there are air bubbles in the system?

 

The airbubbles will go to the highest point in the setup. In this case that's the reservoirs.

 

i just read the article on bit-tech... this is the most amaziong mod project i have ever seen! are the jacks a power transporter, like the 5v and 12v rails ? If so do you know about the legality of that ?? I know in theatre use, jack-to-jack leads are not allowed for power transfer uses! due to danger when taking them out of the supply!

 

As I have read the whole of both threads I remembered where this was (kinda) answered before

Linky to the post

So, basicly he knows and have experienced.

Edit: Just saw that you wanted to know if it was legal (I have to read more carefull) It's legal to do whatever you want with the power in your computer, but you can void warranties of some parts.

 

if it's not so safe, it's not legal , so ggnome can't sell it to us

seriously, i dun think there is any question of legality.. maybe safety when he will show his work at modding contests
zapwizard lanpc got his power supply cable "jack-to-jack", it's way more scary

 

wow.. i haven't posted before about this project and i'm amazed! It looks so damn good! Can't wait to see part4 and this surprising thing your going to do .

 

Well This project is Awesome!
It takes some time to go through all the posts....
It´s so freakin cool. I don´t know what to say....

 

Firstly, I'm not 'selling' anything to anyone - I'm simply showing you guys what I did on my project.

Secondly, I have always said that anyone attempting to copy my work does so at their own risk. I will not be held responsible for folks zapping themselves or setting their computers on fire. Remember - these are not modding guides or 'how-to' articles, it is simply a detailed record of what I did on the project. Attempt to duplicate at your own risk.

Thirdly, as only the DC current inside the computer is wired using jacks (NOT the AC mains power) and (correct me if I'm wrong, though I have experienced this) DC is quite safe to touch (just like a 12v battery) so there are no real safety issues to speak of other than voiding warranties. Also, as the case remains closed I can't see any danger when showing the case at competitions as it is impossible for people to touch the (harmless anyway) jack plugs.

Hope this explains things well enough. Safety is not even an issue with this case.

 

Yeah, I gave up on flame polishing for those reasons (it can leave all sorts of other unwanted effects as well). There are a couple of good threads in 'Modding' on flame polishing and normal acrylic polishing.

I used a flat 2nd-cut file and then 320 grit followed by 1200 grit wet'n'dry sandpaper (used dry) both with a sanding block, followed by a plastic polish (Plexus or Novus). Have a trawl thru 'Modding' for those threads as well. It seems the consensus was that various grades of sandpaper followed by plastic polish were the most consistent and controlled ways of polishing edges (unfortunately for lazy peeps like me! ).

Hope that helps?