Case Mod - Complete ⭐ Project BOX CS GO

Projeto Box Counter Strike GO​

Este projeto surgiu em parceria entre a PCROOMBRASIL e a Aorus.
Ao discutir ideias, foi exposto pela empresa Aorus que gostaria de usar uma caixa de jogo como tema de projeto.
Depois de muitas caixas, escolhi ver qual se encaixaria melhor com minhas ideias, então quando vi a caixa CS GO vi que certamente ficaria melhor com minhas ideias.



Eles gostaram da ideia, mas pediram que a parte do AK47 também fosse iluminada.

Aí começou o desafio, como eu criaria esse projeto e que material usaria. Comecei a pensar em como ele iria encantar e surpreender, queria um projeto que todos falassem e comentassem, então pensei em criar algo que poderia ser usado como um MEME, tipo “olha o que tenho na caixa cs go”, Ou coisas assim. Uma caixa com tampa dobrável seria fácil de montar, mas na minha cabeça achei embaraçoso ter que entrar e abrir a tampa. Foi então que me lembrei de um vídeo que vi nos grupos de policiais (para quem não sabe, sou policial no Brasil), tinha um americano mostrando um ele o comando de voz para Alexa, e depois um departamento secreto sai de um banco que disponibiliza muitas armas:

[MEDIA = youtube] M8d5Wr9au9I [/ MEDIA]

Pensei comigo mesmo, uau, se eu pudesse construir algo assim, seria surreal, daria o comando “alexa, preciso de um jogador de pc” e um projeto topo sairia da caixa.
Montei uma aparência do projeto em 3D e enviei para um AORUS, eles concordaram na hora.

Bom eu já tinha me comprometido com a empresa para fazer o projeto e agora tinha que arcar com as consequências, mesmo sem saber por onde começar kkkkk.

Primeiro estudei o espaço necessário para colocar tudo dentro, não cheguei a conclusão de que com uma caixa de 1000mmx450mmx350mm eu seria capaz de fazer o que eu queria.

The material was difficult to decide, after all the mdf would be facial and cheap but the finish would not be so good, I went to talk to a friend who works with acrylic and he told me that for 500 dollars he would be able to deliver me the necessary material for the project, I didn't believe it and I even argued with him insisting that it wouldn't be enough hehe, he insisted that it would work. So we made a deal, I paid him 550 dollars and if I used more material it would come out of his pocket kkkk and he agreed. Poor kkk passed a little, but agreement is agreement, thankfully he's a very good friend of mine.

Well then it was decided, the whole structure will be in acrylic. In my head I consider myself a guy who has cool ideas, but I'm a cool guy compared to the geniuses I see around. It's not Alex.

Levei uma semana para fazer o desenho 3D, e eu queria acompanhar mais ou menos o que estava lá. Usei isso como uma forma de mostrar o projeto em si para outras empresas. Com muita sorte consegui

 

all the material I needed. Here they are:


When AORUS gave me the pieces I couldn't believe it, I almost cried kkkkk:
So they are:
Processor: Intel i9 10900k
Motherboard: Aorus Z490 Xtreme Waterforce
GPU: Aorus RTX 2080 Waterforce
SSD: Aorus RGB AIC 1 Tb.
Power Suply: Cooler Master V1300 1300w 80plus Platinum Full Modular
Memory: Corsair Vengeance DD4 4000mhz (4x8gb)
Fans: Cooler Master Master fan SF120r ARGB
Radiator: 2x EK - Coolstream XE 240
Fittings: EK-Quantum Torque HDC 16 - Black and acessories

Tube: EK-HD PETG Tube 12 / 16mm 500mm
Pump + Resevoir: EK-Classic Pump Reservoir 160

Well, while the pieces arrived, I was already assembling the main structure.
To assemble the structure of the main box we use 10mm acrylic and simply assemble it like this:
side view:

 

It was glued with acrylic glue:

 

The finishing was done with acrylic cutouts for example:


The finishing would then be with polyester plastic putty and sandpaper, it would be a challenge because I had never worked with anything at that level.
As can be seen in the previous images, 10mm acrylic was used and the weapon location is rounded. Explaining to you, this part will be placed the led, more layers of acrylic will be placed both on the inner and outer part, on the inner side a 3mm layer would be placed in its entire length to make the 10mm sandblasted acrylic square and fit that is the shape of the weapon, it would be placed 2mm out of the black 10mm acrylic, this would be the measure for fitting another 2mm acrylic placed on the outside that obeys the outline of the weapon, I followed this way because I wanted to maximize the brightness in the surroundings, I accept suggestions. Finally, another 2mm layer was placed, these are the ones that would form the grooves around the weapon:

 

As you may have already noticed, the shape in which it was made left the tips of the box at a 90 degree angle and the project should be curved. For this we use a curved router, I believe with a radius of 25mm.



Then more sanding and plastic mass kkkk.
For the central area, led edge from the top and sides were used 10mm sandblasted acrylic. On the side we did as follows, we made a perfect lateral fit leaving the corners rounded for a better fit when the cover went down. In the middle for placing the LEDs, we leave a 4mm cut-out for the LED strip to pass outside. The acrylic with design in the middle was exceeded by about 10 mm so that the led dots do not appear. In the internal part, an acrylic with the same size as the blasted acrylic was placed and it is the one that hits the square and also holds the structure.

 

And finally the elaboration of the cover that was done at the same time but that has not yet been shown:

 

Olhar para uma estrutura principal me deu alegria, mas ao mesmo tempo medo, porque dale sand kkkk.
Bem, agora é hora de fazer o interior. Para ser sincero, tenha uma pequena ideia de como fazer-lo subir, mas até agora não tinha criado nada específico ou personalizado na caixa. Louco né ?! Para ser honesto, paguei caro por isso.
Meu amigo é um cara incrível, e confio muito na opinião dele, mas para ser sincero o último não foi dos melhores, estava tentando economizar dinheiro e ele sugeriu fazer engrenagens de acrílico na parte inferior onde girariam 4 eixos que girariam levante o PC, perguntei a ele sobre a estabilidade e ruído e ele disse que isso não seria um problema, de qualquer forma, aqui é o lugar para ser sincero e mostrar os erros e acertos. Aceitei a ideia e me arrependi, era muito barulhento e sem estabilidade, aqui estão as fotos e os vídeos

 

Okay I did my part, I trusted, but my friend project of elevation was not cool. So change plans, let's go back to the original plan.
We will spend more, but it will certainly get better.
I bought a spindle system.
4x set of linear guides of 8mm in diameter
4X spindles 8mm in diameter and pitch 2mm.
1x 23kg stepper motor
The lifting mechanics part looked like this:
The PC structure would be in the middle of the box, for each end there would be a guide and a spindle.
It would rise as follows:
On the engine, I put a bicycle disk as gear (yes you heard, kkk, as I wanted to save money, I replaced gear systems and pulleys with bicycle chain and rear gearshift pedestrians, I don't know if I got the translation right), following , the motor moved the first spindle that, through pedestrians and chains, was transferring one by one to
The other spindles, as they were all the same size, faithfully obeyed the number of turns. Show right kkkk.
It is worth mentioning that I tried to put a spindle on each side at the beginning but it didn't work, the excessive effort brought instability. So I put two more there.

 

In the electrical part it was as follows:
1x Arduino uno
1x 24v source
1x digital driver
1x smart socket
1x conversion relay from 120v to 5v

From that moment on I designed the elevation structure.
The electrical system for going up and down was quite simple:
Let's see the following:
I enabled the smart plug in the ewelink app that communicates with the Amazon Alexa app, I have an echo dot to accept the voice command.
Then when giving the command the voice command the smart socket connects to the relay 120v where it converts to 5v giving a signal to the Arduino uno, which was programmed that when it receives the signal it will communicate the digital driver that will make the reading and transfer to the stepper motor how much it should turn. For safety I installed buttons that must be tightened at the ends in order that they are in the correct position to perform the movement, that is, if none of these buttons are pressed they will not start the movement. I also put limit switches to not exceed the limits and damage the parts. Simple right. When the plug turns on and the button underneath is pressed, it commands to go up. When the outlet turns off and the top button is pressed, the system goes down.
Here is the command:
const int stepPin = 5; // Output to the engine
const int dirPin = 6; // Output to the engine
int smart_plug = 7;
int botao_topo = 8;
int botao_solo = 9;
void setup () {
pinMode (stepPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode (dirPin, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin (9600);
pinMode (7, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode (8, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode (9, INPUT_PULLUP);
}
void loop () {
smart_plug = digitalRead (7);
button_topo = digitalRead (8);
botao_solo = digitalRead (9);
if (smart_plug == LOW) {
Serial.println ("Triggered Smart Plug");
Serial.println (smart_plug);
}
if (smart_plug == HIGH) {
Serial.println ("Smart Socket off");
Serial.println (smart_plug);
}
if (botao_solo == LOW) {
Serial.println ("Botao solo");
Serial.println (botao_solo);
}
if (button_topo == LOW) {
Serial.println ("top button");
Serial.println (botao_topo);
}
// UP
if (smart_plug == LOW && botao_solo == LOW) {
digitalWrite (dirPin, HIGH);
for (int x = 0; x <1000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, HIGH);
for (int x = 0; x <2000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (500);
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (500);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, HIGH);
for (int x = 0; x <52040; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (200);
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (200);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, HIGH);
for (int x = 0; x <2000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (500);
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (500);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, HIGH);
for (int x = 0; x <1000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
}
}
// DOWN
if (smart_plug == HIGH && botao_topo == LOW) {
digitalWrite (dirPin, LOW);
for (int x = 0; x <1000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, LOW);
for (int x = 0; x <2000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (500);
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (500);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, LOW);
for (int x = 0; x <52040; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (200);
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (200);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, LOW);
for (int x = 0; x <2000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (500);
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (500);
}
digitalWrite (dirPin, LOW);
for (int x = 0; x <1000; x ++) {
digitalWrite (stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
digitalWrite (stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds (1000);
}
}
}

 

I emphasize on empiricism, I do not have much knowledge on the subject.
But it worked kkkk. For some reason I don't know, I had to change the number of laps in different commands, I kept testing until I got to the right point. Many people questioned me the speed of ascent, the speed I chose was to give that expectation to those who are wanting to see the project. It does not change the time to start the project. As a matter of fact, the smart plug also turns on the source and through the bios I can configure it so that the computer turns on at the same moment that power arrives at the source.
System Explanation Video
Lifting system video ready

Next step, I tested if the lifting structure fit the box, it was perfect.
However, the side spaces were tight for placing the electrical lifting system and the cables that connect to the source.
When analyzing the possibilities I came to the conclusion that the usb and other inputs on the motherboard should be facing downwards. Between the motherboard and the bottom of the box was 10 cm, enough for the passage of cables and chain.
Now that the position of the motherboard has been definitively agreed, I started assembling the drawing:

 

Now that I got the measurements, cut the acrylic on the router and then finish it.

 

When it came to adjusting the positions of the pieces, I did it this way because the pieces are well exposed, at first I wanted to put the font on the back, but it would be too tight to put a liquid redirect on the front, so I had to choose to place it inside the box. I ended up putting the fan's LED controller on the back. I confess that I based myself on a Peter Brands project, he did a project where everything was together. I found it very top.

 

After placing the pipes, I take the measurements from the base to redirect.



To redirect the liquid at the bottom I used the following form:
I made two independent systems:
One video card and memories only:
Reservoir-pump-radiator-video card-memories-reservoir
One only for the motherboard that cools the processor and chipset:
Reservoir-pump-plate mother-radiator-reservoir
They often go through the redirect at the base.
As it was very tight, I used two 10mm plates, and on both I made 5mm grooves to pass the liquid.
I used triangular stainless steel m4 screws, I did. The groove measurements vary, but between it and the rubbers I left 1.5 mm of edge. I used 2.5mm diameter rubber, for the grooves of the rubbers I used 3mm laterality and 1.8mm depth.
The distribution of the screws varies, but on average I try to keep 40mm between them.

 

With the plate ready, now I started installing the pieces definitely on the acrylic pieces.
For clarification, on the vertical acrylic plate I left the radiators, the motherboard and the controller and the upper cover supports fixed. On the base I put a mirrored acrylic, I think it would look better aesthetically.

 

After that, I tested it inside the box and when everything worked out I started doing the finishing part.

 

Then everything was set up and here's the result:
HOPE YOU LIKE IT