My old Microsoft ergonomic 4000 keyboard needs to retire as its knackered I was looking at the logitech g915 tenkeyless lightspeed but I've read about the key caps move and it's hard to get replacement caps, so I've seen the Glorious range as you can build them to how you want, as I've no idea what I'm doing the two models are GMMK 2’ and the pro, I use my keyboard for gaming mostly with light Internet usage. I want a tkl as it will suit my needs as I don't use the num pad so any recommendations.
I have the g815 wired and g915 wireless both good keyboards and have had no issues with key caps, despite being essentially the same keyboard the wireless one doesn't feel as robust as the wired as if they aren't the same build I would have expected. Perhaps it is to reduce weight of wireless one. The g915 is also micro USB charging which is rubbish when the logitech mice are usb c.... Great switcher between Bluetooth and lights peed on 915 though. Use that a lot. G815 feels nicer to type on even if they are mostly the same thing and requires two usb connections Perhaps so on board usb is max speed.
Any particular features you need? Or, if you’re building up a board, have you thought much about what sort of switches you want? The GMMK pro line has had some reasonable reviews and you can change plate material to get a different feel if you want to. Keychron might be an alternative, or try something like a Mode80 (now back in stock if I recall correctly) if you’re after a more premium product. You might also consider a 65% board if you don’t need a numpad, but that will depend on whether you use the home/end/pg up/pg dn etc cluster above the arrow keys.
Do you know if you like light or heavy switches? As in, a light switch requires less force than a heavy one to push. Also is lighting a requirement? Having bought a few and had several other pass through or by my hands lately, without a shadow of a doubt the best has been my Durgod K310. Solid construction some, good hardwired features, little to non key wobble, double shot pbt caps as standard, just a really good keyboard. That's a full sized board, but they do a TKL version too, the K320. I would probably suggest mx red or silent switches of gaming is your main thing.
Looking for good rgb, as in switches I was thinking a tactile but I think I would prefer a linear switch with as less noise as possible, its a bloody nightmare trying to work out what I need. It's a pain as I'm after a wireless keyboard and the only good one I know is the g915.
Oh if it's wireless you're after, you should check out Keychron. https://www.keychron.uk/ They have a bunch of small form factor keyboards, all wireless with an option to work wired when charging. There's the K series which aren't too expensive and have a few in UK ISO I'd that's important to you. There's also the Q series, which are more expensive, have CNC machined alu frame etc. They're available as barebones ISO form, so you'd have a to provide your own switches and caps, not necessarily a bad things though, would let you personalise it. Be aware though that although that's a "UK" site, everything bought direct ships from China. It's worth checking out the Keychron offerings from the keyboard company, an actual uk retailer. Bought a couple of boards off them and had exceptional customer service https://www.keyboardco.com/category.asp?sr=Keychron
You may find it worthwhile giving https://www.keyboardco.com a look. They are not all expensive and their range includes some Keychron boards. Based on my own experience of the last 4 years and, depending on budget, Filco are easy to recommend.
I’d second that if you want wireless. I’ve been using a (wired) Keychron Q2 for the last few months and certainly happy with build quality. I went for the ISO barebones so I could add my own switches and keycaps and it all came together really easily and is very solid. Edit: forget to say, the RGB is pretty good as well if you’re into that kind of thing!
You can, just be aware of the changes. 3 loses £ and gains # # key goes completely to allow for the bar shaped enter. Left shift is longer, so you lose the \ key \ key moves to top right on row 2, between backspace and enter. So long as you get a QMK compatible board it's easy enough swapping keys around, or adding layers. So you could set £ as Ctrl+3, or put £ back where it belongs and move # somewhere else for example. Edit: there's an annoying amount of keycap sets that state ANSI/ISO compatible, that don't include an alternate 3 key.
But that’s because UK isn’t the only ISO layout… there is a US ISO, as well as FR, DE, JP, Norway, etc… If you look at the GMK group buys they often have a base set that’s ANSI and then an international set to cover everyone else that usually costs almost as much again! Some of the smaller keycap makers are a lot better though. Try Cannoncaps or NicePBT (ProtoTypist usually carry both) and they often include UK ISO in the base kit as well. Edit: e.g. this https://prototypist.net/collections/in-stock-keycaps/products/in-stock-cannoncaps-9009-dark Edit 2: No, I’m not on commission!
I gave up ISO some time ago, and don't miss it one bit. There are many ways around the issues that come as a result though, which were highlighted by VictorianBloke further up. The easiest way is to keep Windows language to English UK, but add a US English keyboard (keeping the UK board entry). Set the US keyboard as default, and just type away on your ANSI board, and when you need a ISO specific character, usually £, you can just Win+Space to quickly swap to the ISO layout to type Shift+3 as normal. The better way is to use a QMK/VIA capable board, and just reprogram the firmware to put £, @ and " where they should be on a ISO board, but on your ANSI board, then fit the correct keycaps, as also mentioned by VictorianBloke... but the Windows method is perfectly fine unless you type £ a great deal. You quickly get used to the " and @ swap, which is the change that most commonly causes people an issue, and that has now been completely absorbed into my touchtyping muscle memory.... it took a week or so. I always though the ISO left shift was ridiculously small, and the enter ridiculously large. IMO, an ANSI board is a lot better balanced. Looks better too... more symmetrical.