Cooling The Ultimate Waterblock... T-REX 2 (56k warning)

www.pctunershop.it
i guess from middle july because they are producing them right now
anyway tomorrow or thursaday i'll be able to tell you more

 

detail of the o-ring



note: the peltier is not mounted in theese pictures

 

Thanks

 

with those screws in place and expansion and contraction of the plate , will it cause any problems such as loosenning or damage to the plate. aslo if possible i would change the fin orientation and make them slightly thinner

 

now let's see what happens with an overclocked barton 2500
"standard" wb:


images of the "standard" wb:
http://www.pctuner.net/img_wb/Stealth_K/presentazione/plexy/k9typ327.jpg
http://www.pctuner.net/img_wb/Stealth_K/presentazione/plexy/k9typ328.jpg
http://www.pctuner.net/img_wb/Stealth_K/presentazione/rev3/k9typ009.jpg

 

and t-rex!!!

first of all let's say that when we instal the t-rex2 with the thermocontrol card we don't have to consider the water temperature but exclusively the air one.

the waterblock will answer to the variatons of air temperature and will adjust the working temperature of the coldplate according to the surrounding air temperature.
it's also possible to manually set the working temperature:in this test i've imposed the card to make the copper's plate working temperature lower than air temperature of 2°.

this is what happens to our cpu when we are in internet.initially water temperature is almost the same as air and then it increases till thermic equilibrium with radiator (black ice pro with 12V fan)


as you can see the cpu temperature sets on 28° and doesn't move till air temperature stays constant.
water stabylize at 33°. i didn't post the complete sequence just because there are three boring straight lines.
those settings are just to show the potential of the waterblock.i could set the copper plate temperature 10° less than air T (covering with neoprene the copper part of the trex2) but this wasn't the purpose of this initial test

 

now let's see the temperatures with cpu under stress

i've put also the data of the typhoon waterblock to show better the difference between a "normal" wb and the trex2



as you can see, although water temperature increases, we've got the cpu under stress at a temperature of 35,6° that is 11,3° more than air T° . (35,6 - 24,3 = 11,3° ).
at the same conditions a normal waterblock has an higher deltaT= 18.3° (42,6 - 24,3).
as i've said before we are considering just the air temperature that during the test is set costant.
with the thermocontrol card activated we have gained 7° more than a conventional waterblock. t-rex2 the ultimate waterblock!

PS: i remember you that the thermocontrol card i set at minimum and we could go even at lower temperatures.

 

water temperature:



on the left the sample reference thermometer, on the central display we've got water temperature before replacing it with water @ air temperature so we could start with a deltaT=0, on the right air temperature with the probe at one meter from the mainboard.
and this is the graphic:




PS: during this test: cpu @ 2205 mhz @ 1,65 V (idle); the temperatures are taken every 3minutes.
notice the deltat kept by the black ice pro. good result also under those conditions.

 

critical conditions... 0.7L in the circuit....

 

sorry for my english!!!! i hope you understand!!!!
i'll post your questions in the italian forum so you're getting his answer translated by me here

 

Very nice work staffa, thanks for translating. It would be nice to see the block tested against one of the current top blocks tdx/cascade etc. What about using a dual BIX too.

Was there any condensation around the socket when using the tec?
You said you can set the value of the copper plate and how much below air temperature you want it, how low can it go? or rather whats the biggest difference in 'c?
You mentioned a power supply in the post, are you using the pci power card to give you the 13.5v you mention? if no then how well does the block work on 12v?

 

Yes, it could be nice, but some are very difficult to find in Italy or too expensive to import. If someone can send...

U can use the card to themocontrol the Rex, or just leave it at full power.
When thermocontrolled, the card keeps the coldplate at 2°C less the ambient temp.
Without thermocontrol, I've seen the old Rex (I own one of them) keep the CPU at -5°C with 25°C amb.temp full load.

The pelt can dray out 20A at 12V, it needs an external alimentation. It's real needing anyway when u want to use the regulation card.

I hope I've helped I've been too much time lurkin' this forum!

 

i'm going to ask for a comparative.
well as you can see from this table setting the ThermoControl card to a DeltaT of -2° means that you must have a 85%-90% relative humidity before you get condensation. this means no condensation. however the designer will provide a pre-cut kit of neoprene to cover the copper parts.
the TCcard allows you to manually go 10° under air temperature.



the TCcard is a pci dummy and gets power from an external source such as another psu.
the t-rex2 has to work with a dedicated psu because the TC card may stress to much the +12 line of your standard power supply and this could cause problems to the rest of the hardware.there are going to be a few test on alternative psu.
the power supply i've mentioned is one of the best for peltier.
http://www.pctunershop.it/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=354
i hope i've answered all your questions

 

grazie smanet!!!!

 

very nice work gents and thanks for the reply's... welcome to the forums smanet

I noticed the block has been designed around the socket A 4 hole mobo mounting system, is there any plans to bring out an adaptor bracket or modified block to fit p4/athlon64 mounting systems?

 

of course!!!! the mounting system is older than the waterblock itself and was studied to ensure a correct fit with every kind of cpu!so if you are going to change the cpu and the mobo you don't need to change the bracket.
here are the links:

http://www.pctunershop.it/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=250
if you have an amd64 you'll need also this:
http://www.ybris-cooling.it/product_info.php?cPath=73&products_id=617
i'll ask to be sure

 

Thanks Scottish fragger!

Edit:
here some pics on how it'll work on P4 motherboards:
http://forum.pctuner.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38877&perpage=20&pagenumber=21

With the older version (mine, for little time tough ) needed an adaptor, since the old rex had a Socket A origin.
With the new one, u have the Socket478's and SocketA's holes, so can use it on both type of mobos.

 

lol scottish fragger, you must of played against me in deathball then

The P4 mount looks a little more tricky to setup as the bracket is only pressing down on the block, it isnt attached to it in a couple of places to stop it moving about when clamping. I notice you dont use springs when mounting the blocks, any reason for this or dont you worry people could overtighten and damage the mobo?

I would imagine you'll be working on a gfx chipset block now you have done the cpu block you need to get someone in the uk to import these so we can all be power freaks any ideas on pricing for the trex2?

 

you're right, it looks like... but i can assure you it is very simple to mount it. the bracket presses the wb right in the center so you've got a prefect contact between the two surfaces. there is no risk to overtight the screw,you simply screw it by hand till you can and then you give a last 1/4 turn with a clamp ora a monkey wrench. this system is tested since many years now (3-4) and works perfectly
this is the gfx block (available for both ati/nvidia card in natural copper color or black)
http://www.ybris-cooling.it/product_info.php?cPath=77_78&products_id=486
the price should be around 130€ (including the mounting system).