H/V sync -> C sync converter Anyone made one of these before? Im following this schematic: But its not stripboard freindly (I feel like an idiot saying this). Ive spent last 30 mins trying to lay it out while also keeping it as small as I can (im hoping it will fit in a small box), but I give up. Is there any software that might have an easyer time doing this than me? free software prefably, or one with a trail/demo.. I hate strip board, Is there any easy way to do stuff like this on pcb? the only method I currently have is cutting tracks with a knife, which im sure isnt the best way.
with a board as simple as that - you could easily etch it yourself. This is a good guide: http://extremecooling.org/ec/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=73
For something this simple I could just use an etch resist pen... its the actual etching I dont like.. and I odnt have a laser printer either... Is there any pcb methods that are easyer? if I try anything with pcb's I will probably print a picture to scale on my inkjet, drill the holes, and cut through the copper with sharp knife. Maybe even use my dremmel to carve away the copper, that sounds fun tomrrow I will make it with strip board BUT instead of using the annoying tracks I will just use wires for most of it, much easyer like that (but more messy...)
ok i get what your trying to do...but i dont know much bout circits...what th hell does the number in the midle represent and what are those circles 4? i would also like to mod my psx. is there i site were i can learn the eletronics for making this? srry for the hijack but it didnt seem thread worthy.
What's so worrysome about etching? That's the easiest part of the process. The hardest, IMO, is transferring the toner to the board, if that's the mothod you're using.
Ive never done etching before. After etching stuff I assume the chemicals have to be disposed of properly? If I did I would do it the UV way, I have several spare UV CCFL's. Using the UV way can the pcb get over exposed? How long would 4x12" ccfl's take? Is there any places online that you can send design and they etch it?
Yes UV isn't for etching, it's for transferring. Don't think so. Beats me Plenty of places, but they'll charge you way too much for a simple one-time board.
Ill order some photo resist pcb then, cut a small corner off and leave it under uv all night with a few bits masked off, see what its like in the morning. Im thinking of starting a service making pcbs, or something. I need to do try it for my own pcbs first. I need to start a service or sell stuff.. its either that or get a proper job :E Making pcb's probably wont cost much - pcb, chemicals, transparencys, ink, uv light and some time.. sounds like a good service to do... How should the chemicals be disposed of? I assume they cant be poured down the drain or put in the bin, so it might have a cost to disposing of them? Here is a post about free pcb design software, is the stripboard magic any good? the link seems to be down atm
On the pcb schematic in first post, whichway round does the chip go? I assume pin one is the bottom left pin. whats the U shape mean between pin 6 and 7?
For my UV exposure box I have an old scanner and 6 UV CCFLs. With the 6 I expose for 3 and a half minutes, but anything from 2 and a half and 6 was ok for me. I havent tested minute by minute for any longer than that but I did try leaving one for about 30 mins and the tracks didnt come out at all.
There are a few types of chemicals that are used for etching, the most widely used is ferric chloride. It stains like hell so be careful. But ferric chloride can be used many multiple times before its useless. Through many uses, more and more copper becomes suspended in it and your etching times will get longer and longer. Eventually you will want to replace it but it will work for quite a while. The only other thing thats needed is developer. This will need to be disposed of properly but should have instructions with it. As for using uv ccfl's I don't know if they will work or not. I use a standard 18" uv tube that works great at about 6 minutes exposure time. Your best bet will be to experiment to see what is the best time for you. You can make what is basically an exposure guide. Create a small circuit artwork that has the same image multiple time next to each other left to right. Then put some sorta cover over all the images except one. Expose it for a given amount of time. This will be a guess at first. Then uncover one more image. Expose both for another minute or 2. Keep going till you have exposed all images. Now you have a bunch of images that have been exposed for a range of times. Dunk it in the developer (mixed correctly) for a minute or so. Over exposed areas will have all the resist melt off and under exposed areas will have the resist cover too much. With luck ( and experimenting) you should be able to find one that is about right. This is you proper exposure time for the tubes you have. If the whole thing has the resist come off... all your times were too long, and if no resist comes off.... none were long enough. Once you get it guaged right you should be able to do it again over and over no problem. Hope that helps, good luck.
For cheap one-offs without etching etc. I use matrix board (the stuff with 0.1" spaced holes and copper pads for each hole). Underside tracks are made using tinned copper wire cut and bent to shape, topside tracks can be made with tinned copper wire or insulated hook-up wire. Tracks can be planned with any software package (or pen and paper), but to make it easy to build, I only use 45 or 90 degree bends, and minimum bend-to-bend distance is 0.1" (ie. bends in tracks only where there are holes in the board). I tend to make topside tracks as straight linkers, as it simplifies construction. It can be fiddly to construct, but it's about as cheap as stripboard and there are no chemicals to buy, store, etc. Underside tracks are easiest to make if you take a piece of wire longer than you need, solder it at one point, bend to shape using the hole matrix as a guide, cut off any excess wire, and finally solder at the other end. MJL
Doesn't look impossible to make on stripboard really. Pin 1 of the IC is noted on the IC itself with a round notch, or checkout it's PDF specs. The 'U" between 6 & 7 i have no idea! BTW it looks like the PCB is doublesided, as the green tracks also need to be connected with either wires or a second layer of PCB tracks.
This is the (almost) finnished circuit. http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kbn2k3-csyncback.JPG My soldering is a mess, I got a new gas powered soldering iron with a 2mm bit, need a 1mm bit but nowhere has stock! This shows the annoyingly small pitched connector that I have yet to solder which connects my circuit to the lcd. http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kbn2k3-front.JPG Now Im going to have a good read of the datasheet, as I dont want to fry my graphics card or lcd when I test it Edit - I did say this circuit was annoying? mine has now found its way to the bin Ill be attempting to remake it later.. Edit - Remade it better than the first one... but i wired hsync and vsync to pins 3 and 4 on the vga connector, instead of 13 and 14 must change that tomorrow.. I ruined the 14pin DIL socket so had to solder to the chip, I hope I didnt fry it
