"All suggestions for a name are welcome". With that Res. mounted on top>> CYCLOPS comes to mind (looks like a eye to me). How do you add H20 to the loop? It looks like you would have to tip the hole case back, unscrew the front of the Res. and add the H20. Correct? MS
Cyclops is good! i like it! Yes thats probably the easyiest way (i'm all for easy), i was thinking of connecting bleed fill valves? what do you think? anyway some more pics Did a little bit more last night. I knew figuring our where to place the Meanwell PSU was going to be a problem after i purchased it, and reading the spec for size. I have hoped to place it in the bottom of the case after removing one of the hard disk racks and placing the WACC rad outside the case. I decided against this after seeing how well the fan was mounted at the front of the case and that it would be the perfect place for the radiator for optimum airflow. I hope i would still be able to squeeze it in at the bottom. nope! just slightly too tall! here are a few images of bits and pieces! This is a good end shot of the reservoir to show how it has been designed for optimum surface area, both inside and out. A picture of the Pump, I like the feet as they should absorb a lot of the pump vibration and will also allow crafty mounting to the top of the case. This is the Meanwell 320 switching psu. I bought this from Sidewindercomputers in the US it was £60 (UK) inc p&p, with the exchange rate. I think they are selling here for nearly £115 (UK)! I thought about placing the Meanwell here, but it might interfere with the WACC CPU block... so it had to go into a drive bay. I didn't want to put any components into the body of the case that might output heat, but i believe meanwells don't really emit a lot of heat? can anyone elaborate?. I had to modify a floppy bracket to hold the Meanwell in place. I just dremelled it a little and drilled two holes. The meanwell has a special mounting bracket to fit it into drive bays but i think this does the job! This is the bracket in place. I had to place it so it wouldn't interfere with tubing coming from the radiator, or the back of the MX222 unit going up top! The WACC CPU cooler copper core. The CPU cooler with AMD mounting bracket. I will have to used the universal Mounting bracket as this one won't give me enough space for pelt and coldplates. The nylon bolts should be long enough and tightening is still via the 'single nut' system, applying 'even' pressure across the die, rather than using traditional spring systems. The WACC Northbridge Cooler, i am going to change the push-fits for 10mm barbs, 'in keeping' with the rest of the system. I've figured out the the best way to fill the system will be as normal by removing the reservoir cap. This will involve tipping the whole machine bottom up, then removing the reservoir cap... makes sense! :wink: Thats it till next week. I'll be installing the motherboard and hopefully have all the components to test the pelt and watercooling.
Excellent work Johnny. Can't wait to see those temps with the new copper base for the waterblock Keep it up
Nice looking project. I'll keep my eyes on this one. I just love those cases! btw, can you give me the dimensions of the meanwell powersupply?
Looks sweet, dude! That Lian-Li is one cool case. Now why haven't I seen it in Norway yet?? Gonna watch this one, keep up the good work!
*droped jaw* looks just beautiful!!!! i like the GC LCD idea, everyone is using PSone LCD's now a day's anway less mindless chater and more modding!!!!
Mod time again! :-D This time i have installed the peltier (tricky job) and WACC cooler block on to my NF7s Mobo, added a relay to control the pump and meanwell powersupply for the peltier and built some home made probes to slip under the ziff socket and attach to cold plate, cpu and hotplate. I'll not got thought the whole peltier install as there are already some very comprehensive articles on this... needles to say its not as easier as it looks! :? scratched the bottom fo the cpu in the process. I had to use the WACC universal hold down clamp as the AMD one just didnt give enough clearance. I also had to use thread wire instead of bolts as i couldn't find M4 bolts long enough some images: I've used AS5 thermal epoxy to attach the two copper cold plates to either side of the peltier and quickly wired it up to determine the hot and cold side before installation onto the MoBo The copper plates, neoprene and WACC CPU block with Universal hold-down clip. I wont go through the installation details but if you want to know more there is a very good tutorial by Jon on installation, over at the modfathers.. In this image you can see my home made Dallas 1-wire digital temp sensors attached to the directly to the bottom of the CPU, emerging from between the neoprene. The probes will be attached to a modified Matrix Orbital MX222 display to control radiator fans in the cooling loop and to display accurate temperature on the LCD display. Another shot of the CPU and north bridge blocks A close up of the temp sensors.. these will be wired in series to show coldplate hotplate ambient and water temperature. I have put UV braid and molexes on all wiring from my Antec 480W True blue.
there goes the warranty! :wink: ive opened up the PSU as i intend to install a relay switch inside. When i got it open and had a look inside i couldn't believe how little room there was! On removing the fan i couldn't see anywhere to fit the relay switch! :shock: The relay!! i made it with components ordered from RS components and some circuit board. The great thing about Antecs are most have an external molex at the back of the case so you can attach an external fan eg. for a radiator in a watercooled system. It made it easier to solder the +12V and -VE for the relay. The 240V live and earth for the pump and meanwell were soldered here. For those not familiar with relays, power won't be supplied to the pump or meanwell until the system is in a powered on state, thus the pelt and pump will switch off when the system is powered down :-D . There is a very good tutorial over at procooling.com. the 12v and -ve switching power coming from the PSU. Here you can see the 240V input controlled by the relay, which i will connect to a molex for easy removal. Here you can see the pump and meanwell supply molex, and the only position i could fit the relay internally was tght to the top fan! I swapped the ugly white molex for a nice UV reactive blue one! tidied up the cabling and popped the hood back on! job done. That's what I believed would be the trickiest part of this mod, as tinkering with 240V scares the hell outta me! but it wasn't that bad.. guess ill have to wait till the powerswitch is thrown and pray [-o< nothing goes BANG!
Ive just popped the motherboard into the case and installed the meanwell again to make sure there were no obstructions. the only bad thing i can forsee is connecting the sata raptors as the SATA headers are at the top of the board and the HDDs at the bottom, and i hate unnecessary cabling! :x The V1000 has a handy quick release way of installing HDD bt having larger screws that slide along a rail with a locking system. the system upright! Next i hope to install the pump, tubing and fill the system for leak testing.. ...till then!
Ooh good deal. With that pelt PSU are you going to have enough room for the fitting on the top rad/res to come in or is going to need to move down a couple bays or what? And just something I've asked a couple of v-series owners but no responses yet, if you put a PCI card in the topmost slot (nearest the top of the case, not the typical mobo top), how far down is it from the top of the case? I'm trying to figure out if my plans will work clearance-wise (or if I'll have to make some odd shaped megashroud) just noticed that it looks like there's an LED mounted in the PSU... is that just a power indicator or something to drain the caps (if so, good idea) when it's unplugged or what? I hope that relay youve got is rated for a lot of power if it's going to the pump AND that second PSU... Great job so far too. The top rad/res is definately a good idea. Not quite my thing (I like everything to be kept internal generally) but sure adds something interesting to look at I hope the pelt works out well for you, I'm sure some people have had horror stories with them.
Mod time again! I'll answer a few questions first! The meanwell is in the second bay down, the top bay will be a Matrix Orbital MX222 to temp control the fans and CCFLs, with a couple of LEDs thrown in for good measure! The next bay is a pioneer DVD -R/+R/RW CDRW combi drive and the next will be a retractable 5" LCD screen! I'm fully connected, and I am leak testing the system at the moment. There was no problem about clearance of tubing, everything fits with no kinks! so far no leaks fingers crossed! I'll measure it tonite for an accurate reading, I'm using an NF7-s i think it about 50mm. Ill take a measurement to the edge of the MoBo so it should be the same for all boards. Its an Antec True blue 480W, the LEDs are for lighting the PSU fans The meanwell power input is 240V, 3.5 amps and the pump is 240V, 3 amp (i think?) the relay is rated to 240V, 15amps, so no problem there! Thanks! Another small GPU mod. I have to give props to Womblebt for this one! :wink: The WACC GPU cooler ! I've drilled a couple of holes to fit two 5mm blue leds (being incredibly careful not to crack the acrylic block!) The great thing about the Lian-Li V1000 case is, thats because the MoBo is upside down, you can really show off that GPU cooler. Traditionally it would have been hidden underneath the Graphics card! :-D Two 5mm LEDs fit perfectly! I've soldered the two LEDs in series with a 470 ohm resistor (heat shrink over the whole lot). This will be attached to the 12V fan out put on the Graphics card. The GPU fitted to the graphics card! Here is wombles WACC GPU lit up which i think will look excellent in the dark. I haven't actually fired up the system as i have a some more testing to do but it will look pretty much like this! I'm nearly done with leak testing (all clear so far) and hope to fire the pelt up tonite! :twisted: then i'll be adding a modified MX222 with a Lian-Li face plate (better fit than the provided MO face plate) and connecting up all the case LEDs, CCFL etc.. (A big thank you to Wombletbt for the idea for this mod!) till then...
Really cool looking case. I love idea to use a GC LCD, how different is it from the PS1 LCD (when it comes to wiring up)? Are you going to VGA with it? Can we have some more shots of it?
its on the slow boat from the US so im still waiting on it Yeah i'll be going VGA with it. I had a 14" LCD which would have been side mounted but the controller was too hard and too expensive to wire up! it's square and small enough to fit into the drive bay. I'm working on a servo activated retracting system controlled by the MX222. if i get it to work i'll be able to use a keypress to open it and close it!
