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overclocking applebred on at7max2

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by hardflipman, 28 Jul 2004.

  1. hardflipman

    hardflipman What's a Dremel?

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    howdy folks,
    just got me a duron 1800 applebred and seeing as it won't work in the machine i got it for(kt7a-raid) i fancy overclocking it a bit in my at7max2.
    i've heard that these things can go super fast but i couldn't get it to boot at 166 fsb or even 150. any suggestions? i'm a bit new to overclocking (well, i haven't overclocked anything since my dual celeron 366@450 system) and am not sure aout all the new fangled options.
    oh, i also managed to destroy my bios. so should hopefully have a new chip waiting for me when i get home...
     
  2. Jon Mooring

    Jon Mooring What's a Dremel?

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    Well, I'll tell you what someone told me when I wanted to overclock my XP :)

    The first step is to make sure you have sufficient cooling. Get a nice HSF from a respectable company such as Thermaltake or Thermalright :) Next, go to your BIOS and lower your CPU multiplier to 10. Then slowly raise the FSB one step at a time. Use Prime95 to check for stability and MBM 5 to watch those tempertatures :) If your system won't boot or you get errors in P95, try raising the VCore a little bit before backing off on the FSB speed. Once you've found your max FSB speed, start to raise the CPU multiplier. Also, if you cheaped out on the memory and got PC-2100 or something, good luck getting it too high, because obviously the memory is effected by the FSB :(

    Good luck! Hope it works out for you :)
     
  3. yodasarmpit

    yodasarmpit Modder

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    As above.

    By the way what RAM dou you have, this could be the limiting factor here, if you are running PC2100 then that might be the problem, default speed is 133MHz.
    To get around this you may have to increase the voltage supplied to the RAM, also the same could be said for the processor, in order to increase the overall speed you may need to increase the voltage to the proc, this may also involve an improved cooling solution.
     
  4. hardflipman

    hardflipman What's a Dremel?

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    didn't know i could change the multiplier. pretty sure it's locked hence the fact it wouldn't run on my kt7a raid.
    i've got geil pc3200 ram and a tt volcano 11 so don't think there's a problem there.
    the multiplier on these is 13.5.
    oh and it's not the brown one like i've seen pictures of it's green and if i remember correctly it has a square core rather than the rectangular one.

    just got my new bios chip so i'll have a play with it and see what happens
     
  5. Highland3r

    Highland3r Minimodder

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    The 1800's are slightly harder to clock than the 1600's due to the higher multi. Start by gradually increasing the FSB. When you get to ~ 155/160 change to a 5:2:1 divider if there is a manual option. And yes they are superlocked. Might be possible to unlock the cache if its a pre week 39 though.
    Also keep increasing the voltage if you get instabilities or no boots. As long as the temps are low then you'lll be fine. 2.2ghz seems to be a reasonable speed to aim for (have seen an 1800 hit that, and have a 1600 here that will do that as well) which will equate to ~ 162fsb. Might need 1.8 or so volts to get there as well.
     
  6. yodasarmpit

    yodasarmpit Modder

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    The colour only denotes the country in which the chip was manufactured.
    Green = Germany and Brown = Malaysia or it might be the other way round, cant remember.
     
  7. Austin

    Austin Minimodder

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    :wallbash: I'd heard the difference in colour only really had an effect when modding the bridges. Apparently brown CPUs are easier to join (may only need pencil) but harder to cut (keep slicing away). Green CPUs are harder to join (need more than pencil, eg conductive ink) but are easier to sever.

    :rock: In any case all Apple Durons (266FSB) are superlocked, joining the last link on L5 makes the AthlonXP into a wierd hybrid AthlonMP-M and enables the mobo to alter the multiplier, MAY be worth a try. 13.5x shouldn't be too limiting, so it may not be worth the risk. All the current suggestions are great, you can try raising the RAM timings too if you believe your RAM is holding back the o/c, do ensure it's synced BTW. I'm sure all Apple Durons use 1.50v default which will really hold back an o/c (but make them run very cool). The norm is around 1.65v so you can set this without truly over-volting (only your warranty will disagree). You should find 2.4ghz possible, perhaps with a little more voltage (most people are happy up to 1.75v). Having just 64k L2 can really help, this is why the TbredB (256k) could often clock a little higher than the Barton (512k), although obviously you lose a little 'real' speed due to decreased L2 cache. As a rough guide the Durons 64k makes them 10% slower than the 256k TbredB which in turn are 5% slower than the 512k Barton, all at the same clock speed fo course. As such a Duron at 2.5ghz with 400FSB would be around XP3200+ in perf.
     
  8. hardflipman

    hardflipman What's a Dremel?

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    thanks for your help folks. got it up to 166 fsb quite easily. don't even have to run my fan at full pelt. voltage at 1.8. think i'll try reducing the voltage a bit.

    got it to run super pi in 58 seconds. 10 seconds faster than before the overclock which seems quite good to me
     
  9. Austin

    Austin Minimodder

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    :D Duron 1.8ghz (133/266FSB) is about even with an AthlonXP2000+, nice speed for such a cheap CPU. At 166/333FSB it's at 2.25ghz which is a great boost, shoudl be near XP2600+ perf now. Shouldn't need 1.8v either. I'd suggest running Prime's Torture Test for at least 10min, if it passes drop the voltage by 0.05v and test again to see if it's still stable. Continue until it's unstable then pop the voltage up so it's stable again. You may find with 1.8v it can go faster still, your PC3200 RAM won't limit you (just keep it synced) and you shoud find KT400 can do around 180/360FSB before you get problems from the lack of PCI/AGP locks. That would get you past 2.4ghz (which may not be possible of course). If you like just keep upping the FSB by 5mhz or so, again testing with Prime and ideally 3Dmark to ensure things are stable. Forget synthetics like SuperPi, test in something you'll actually use your PC for. Even 'just' at 2.25ghz it's one heck of a performer though, rem voltage above 1.65v is abnormal for the core, and added voltage is responsible for a lot mreo heat and stress too.
     

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