Cooling DD-Chipset-pushfits

One nice DD Z-chipset intel block form coolercases and a pair of SMC KQ2H10-U02 10mm uni-fit pushfits from farnell.

 

Good job

You leak tested it yet Risky???

Just wondered because the Danger Den top is NPT and i presume the Farnel pushfits will be BSP

You might want to epoxy them in to be on the safe side as i tried this a while ago and thought everything was good until i realized there was a tiny amount a water seeping out the thread.

Just a thought..... it might be better to be safe than sorry!

 

I get that quite alot (water leaking out of threads using a NPT/BSPP/BSPT combination) I find a bit of plumbers mate on th threads solves the problem. I would be more worryed about cracking the lucite top those are BSPP fittings right? and can be sealed with an o-ring?

OT - I got those tubes you sent m8. Both types look good as far as sealing with the fittings is concerned so im gonna have an experiment with heating them a little 2moz to see if i can get them a bit more flexible. Thanks again

 

I will test it but I'm using the correct fittings:

http://www.smcetech.com/CC_catalogs/smc/pdf/kq2.pdf page 35 if you're curious.

slater - I've now finally got in the largris flexble tube which is like the Asetek tube but with a slightly larger ID (7mm). The nylon stuff was a mistake I recon, though at 8mm ID it does have that advantage.

 

How's flow with that mod? it looks neat, but does performance suffer?

 

Hmm

Leak tests didn't go so well. It may be that I just need to tighten up a bit more, but I think I was out of time. Will try again later.

 

pushfits are a lot prettier in my opinion than barbs, but I hear they are a lot more prone to leaks in systems. I'm currently trying to source some over here in New Zealand for a pair of HDD blocks I shall be building soon.

 

The leak here is from the thread so it would apply to barbs equally.

Pushfits only leak from the fitting if you:
1. Use hose that's too soft or the wrong OD
2. Don't make a cut clean and close to rigth angles
3. Don't push the tube if far enough

If you're trying to source fittings, look for peumatics suppiers:
http://www.macvalves.co.nz/products/fittings.htm
http://valves.jericho.co.nz/Np_BRASS_Push.asp
http://www.autoequip.co.nz/products.html

 

Cheers for those links, greatly appreciated. I'd been looking at fesco but their website is confusing a lil.

 

OK tried another approach :



This is a NPT to BSPP female convertor, I'm a l little worried about the weight once the fittings are attached and it doesn't look too great.

 

Hang on.........so you going to screw the push fits into those???

 

Yeah, that's what's worrying me!

 

Thing is i can't think of any other way of doing it unless you can get your hands on NPT push fits.

Think i would be more inclined to just epoxy the BSP pushfits into the block...

i got a few spare tops if it all goes wrong

 

I might try the SMC untifits again with some PTFE (which you shouldn't need). And maybe try and clean the thread of any depris from the DD thread locking stuff.

This is, of course a bit of a challenge rather than a desperate attempt, given that the NB probably doesn't need cooling in the first place!

 

Wrong thread match

The Lucite top to that block is screwed on with an o-ring for sealing, i.e. you can take it apart. Why not use the original top for a template, make a new one and, tap which ever threads you need for your pushfits. That way you get the look you want and hopefully no leaks.

 

That would be more sensible, but for the time being I'm hammering away with the plan:


Now tried again with PTFE tabe and fittings. However I'm a little worried they went in too far and are affectign the seal. One for a long leaktest, I reckon.

 

A keener eye than mine might have spotted the crack in the photo above. The little curse cracked from the left hard barb via the screw hole:



On inspection I'm pretty sure itsdown to the fittings having a thread deaper than the top and that I was screwingthem onto the copper. If you look carefuly you can see a slight mark on the block where the thread hit it. THe solution is to shorten the thread by a couple of mm and get a new lid!

The problem is illustrated here:

 

Thats a bummer!

I certainly cant see the crack in the first photo... maybe this is a good opertunity to get a top made with the correct threads? Might be expensive though if you dont do it yourself.

 

The adaptors have the correct NPT thread, its just a big long for this block and that can be dealt with

If I hadn't sent them in so far I wouldn't have cracked it at all and still should have managed a seal.

Paul (the coolmiester) has kindly offered a replacement lid so I will be trying again (carefully).

 

I thought you were worried about the extra torque and weight of the longer fittings (incuding the adapters).

@coolmiester - Nice one paul