just got my Sennheiser HD600's this morning, for only £120 for everything! These things are AMAZING! I've not been in today so I've only tested them a wee bit, but damn! there are things in tunes I never knew existed, and they're so crisp and tight! YES!! ph3ar me!! sorry, random post but I'm so happy! g
almost finished a META42 for it... got plans for a Gilmore when I can afford it, but that'll be a while g
Nice should sound great, I want to hear the difference a headphone amp makes to a decent pair of headphones.
the stuff from Tangent was about £30 including postage and stuff. Resistors were a few pounds cos I got decent .1% precision ones, got a good ALPS pot as well, and ELNA Starget power caps, so I think about £50, which is quite a lot but the META42 is a very good amp. You can get a B-Tech headphone amp from RicherSounds for £29 and upgrade it to a good dual op-amp and new power caps and resistors etc for £10 or so, up to you though g
I'm building a headfone amp from scratch using a push-pull MOSFET setup to go with my sennies. And welcome to the Sennheiser kr3w Guzzler
thanks RTT! micb: sorry, Tangents a guy who helped make the META42 amp. From his site you can get the circuit boards, a REALLY good op-amp, big caps etc all for a reasonable price! regards g
thread revival or what...i know this is ancient and there some posts in electronics but did you (Altron/RTT) ever finish your headphone amp, and would you reccomend/not reccomend anything in particular? looking at a cmoy amp/death of zen amp/bufferdip16amp/something different...cheers for any thoughts...
Ha ha. One and a half years later, I have all the parts for a cmoy bar the PCB pin board, I still haven't got around to building one. I will one day.....
I'm in the proces of troubleshooting my current amp, op-amp based design similar to a certain commercial amp. I think the decoupling caps are shot. I would suggest to everyone, use the Radioshack PCB mentioned at Tangents site. It's a lot harder to lay out of you don't.
don't bother with the DIP16 amp, I'm not a fan of that method of construction: looks like crap, almost impossible to debug, and prone to shorting when leads come loose. The CMoy is a very reasonable first amp, and to be honest, will be all the most people require. I agree with Altron that you should try tangents layout if it's your first build of it. Personally, I've got a homemade CMoy type circuit that's mains powered and fairly heavily modified, and a PPA with diamond buffers. This is all to go with the Cyrus CD6 which I'm currently looking at. I've got a populated old style META42 board if you're interested, it's not cased but I'd be willing to sell it to you if you would like it. All it needs is the input connector. g
well, what i was actually looking to do was put the headphone amp into my pc, run it of the psu... guzzler the cyrus cd player ought to be very nice indeed...some of the best transports built i have seen have been cyrus, and their dacs...well what can i say....wish i could afford one... anyway, this older board you have....what would i be looking at doing to get it running?also how much $ would i be looking at?
everything is on the board, ie; feedback resistors, power caps, 4x stacked buffers, opamp, class-A bias, LED, 1/4" output jack, and ALPS Blue pot. You'd need to connect RCA jacks or 1/8" input jack and put it in a case. Also, you'd need a suitable power supply. Note I haven't included input capacitors, so you'll have to check the DC offset on the output before you connect to your headphones Call it £50 + shipping to wherever g edit: read your post properly. You won't be able to power directly from the PC as the grounds will conflict. Also, inside a PC is RFI hell, so you'll need to put it in a metal case inside the computer, along with an external power supply or battery pack. Personally, I'd put it in an external enclosure and you can use it anywhere you like. It certainly won't embarass itself in most situations
hello again...basically i have to wait till the end of the month to earn some money, but if you give me your email i will get back to you then...if you sell it before then, no worries! ta...
You could get it to run off the PC supply by skipping the voltage dividers and using the pcs ground and the +/-12v rails, but still, the power supply has dirty power. I'd reccomend a nice tangent STEPS power supply for it, or maybe a jung super regulator, not too knowledgable as to which of the two is easier/better/cheaper. Only use the PCs power if your only option is an unregulated wall wart.
the Jung is NOT a good option unless you really know what you're doing and is very temperamental regards opamp choice, current draw and capacitance. If it were mine, I'd put a battery pack inside the computer set to trickle charge from the computer PSU when the voltage drops below a threshold. A STEPS would do fine, but that would about another £70 or so on top of the META. The Velleman kit from Maplin would work fine as well, that being only £15 minus transformer g
