Heh. That's partly why it's 1 or 2 days between my postings here - I'm not about to rush this and burn out another panel. As for rewiring - I'm working on that protoboard stuff, that you can stick wires into. Once I get it all working, then I'll solder it all. one thing I'm doing is going through the actual SED1335 manual .. And I'm seeing things that I really should have been doing. http://apollodisplays.com/pdf/s1d13305.pdf On further reading.. It appears that I *do* need to have all pins connected. I think my main problem before was that I didn't have the reset pin hooked up. So I'll fix that, and rewire the pins to the LCD, and see what happens.
Well from SED>LCD not all pins need to be connected. From SED>LPT most pins should be connected yes. Perhaps this will give you some inspiration muhaha!. Though pix look good there's a lot of interference . Perhaps that will be solved soon .
The saga continues.. Well, looking at the configuration for LCDStudio, etc - it appears that while I can configure which pin Reset is on.. it would have to replace another control line.. Which I'm not sure would be a good idea. Anyways... I looked through the SED1335 spec sheet, and the reset pin is marked as "active low", and should be activated for 1ms after power on. This could be the entire problem.. and I'm not certain how to deal with it. I'd have thought the board would handle this.. but I guess not. Other than that, I'm lost. Nothing works.
I don't get it. The RESET pin on the SED board doesn't go to the LPT port. Tie it to +5 or better build the R/C & switch circuit for it.
Okay, I've rewired the panel. Now, when I apply power, and adjust the contrast, I get this: This seems to be better than before. Although, from what you were saying.. the lines should be horizontal.. So does this mean the LCD is a 200x640? On a side note - I've found a Seiko G649D on Ebay, as well as a 640x200 Planar EL display. Would either of these be a better choice for me? I see that Coorz has this Seiko display - which would mean that I can just hook it up the same way he does... The Planar, on the other hand, has a built-in DC-DC converter, and wants only 4 inputs - Vsync, HSync, VClock, and VidData. Now, does this mean I need another custom controller?
Well at least something changed when you rewired it, looks better now with the stripes. Anything happens when you try an LCD app? If not then it's still a wiring fault, perhaps the LCD pin layout isn't correct? Go for that Seiko G649D, it's a nice one and you could ditch the one you have now. Note: the G649D display quality isn't that good (yet) coupled with the SED board. That Planar U5 is a no-go; it doesn't have the DC converter onboard, so useless unless you can find that daughterboard (little chance).
Well, I tried LCDStudio and LCDInfo 0.6 - neither of them gave me anything. And I seriously think SOMETHING is screwy on my wiring - when I unplugged the power supply, the display was still on. I'm beginning to think this LCD is going to drive me insane, and I'm thinking of getting that Seiko one. But you say there's issues with the display? The other idea that I had was to get one of those little LCD screens that are made for consoles - It's a bit more expensive, but generally they use RCA - and I have TV-out on my card. This would mean a color screen that I can display anything on. Tearing it out of the shell and wiring it up would be relatively trivial. I know I can get a 2.6" screen for about $50 (less on Ebay) - it's a full controller, mind you. Also, there are 4 and 5 inch screens that are not much more. Just some thoughts. Mostly coming from frustration.
Sounds weird indeed. Recheck your wiring and check the GROUNDs. The big SEIKO looks great, but it looks like most LCD apps can't drive it 'properly'. Anyway Henri from LCDinfo will cast his expert eyes on it, won't you Surely you can have a go at those screens taking composite video in or with a VGA hack.
Do you have the datasheet available for your display ? That might help trying to figure out the correct way to connect things. This is what I came up with now but I give no promises that it would work or even that it won't damage your panel. But still this is what I'd try myself with the information I have now. Code: SED BOARD LCD 1 | XD3 14 (D3) 2 | XD2 13 (D2) 3 | XD1 12 (D1) 4 | XD0 11 (D0) 5 | XECL 10 (XECL) 6 | XSCL (CL2) 9 (XSCL) 7 | LP (CL1) 4 (LP) 8 | WF 5 (FR) 9 | YDIS 6 (YDIS) 10| YD (FLM, DIN) 8 (DIN) 11| YSCL 7 (YSCL) 12| Vcc (+5) 13| Gnd (GROUND) 14| Vee 3 15|N.C. 16|N.C. There should be no more issues with the Seiko G649D and SED1335 than any other 640x200 display combined with SED1335. I think the issues experienced are a combination of the SED133x memory arbitration conflict and the larger display size. When the display size grows there is even less time to update the display without causing noise but as we have a larger display we have even more data that needs to be written to the display so the problem is worse. And this will be even more noticeable with fast displays like Planar EL displays and OLED displays. There are two ways that I know that can be used to deal with this. One is to poll the status flag and the other is monitoring the LP pin state. But I don't think either of these is very realistic with LPT port connection especially with larger displays. I don't know yet what will be the way I'm going to use to get around of this problem but I'm working on it.
Well, I completely rewired the panel - all the connections, rebuilt the DC-DC convertor, and nothing. I used the suggested pinout that coorz gave me, and I still got nothing. One of the minor changes I made, was to the LCD contrast. I noticed in the old post I had with all the pinouts, the VEE link on the LCD was marked as "VSS - VLCD = 22V Max" .. So what I did was hook one pin of the trimpot to +5v, the other to -19v, and the center to VEE. Didn't make a huge difference, but it was worth a try. Also, I hooked the reset switch to ground, as it's marked as "active low". So what I'm going to do is rewire it again, using Henri's suggestion.
As you have the contrast working now I suggest you leave all the power and contrast wiring as it is and only rewire the connections between the sed1335 and the lcd. Also you need to have the reset wired high for the display to work. When it is grounded it means reset is active and the controller just stays in reset state.
Ah, if you have it wired so that the reset is normally at +5v (through a pullup resistor 10K or something like that) and the button just grounds it when pressed then just leave the button there. But if you have any doubts about how to connect the reset line then just wiring it to +5v should work.
