Is this what you are looking for? http://www2.dvigear.com/riandviadma.html Its a bit pricey though. I am not sure what your clearence is, but they make cables that have VGA on one end and DVI on the other. Should be able to find them around US$20.
Wow, this is amazing. Do you have a job as a carpenter or woddsmith because damn you are good!! How large of a hard drive are you using for this PC for TV recording and such? I am starting a HTPC and am trying to get some numbers to play with.
Suggestions for the legs: Depending on how heavy the unit ends up, you could try to use copper pipes. With three pipes per leg it should be enough anyways. Polish the copper up nice, and clear-coat it to keep it shiny. As far as mounting it to the bottom/top plates, I am not sure, I wouldn't trust solder. Got a friend who can weld? (Steel pipes in that case)
Hi automagsrock. Design and woodwork are only hobbies for me. I have, however, been doing it for quite som years, so I have some experience. The only hard drive I have around to use in this project is a 160 GB one. With the quality I normally use for recording, I can get more than two days of television stored on it. I might try to find a DVI extension cable or a DVI>VGA cable then. The angled DVI adapter was a bit pricey, but we'll see..
If you are using a dvi to vga adapter i was thinking that you could plug the dvi-vga adapter into the lcd end then use a dvi cable to plug it into the back of the monitor
Copper pipes is a good idea, but I think I want them to be grey/steel colored. (I could, of course, paint the copper). I looked at the axel rods suggested previously in the post, but the problem is that it will cost $50 just for the rods alone... I guess copper pipe is cheaper. I could just go to a weld shop to get the legs welded, I guess.
I have cut the holes for the power and eject buttons (on either side of the DVD drive). This can be seen in a later pic. The buttons are made out of 6mm perspex, 25x25mm with two rounded corners. The rounded corners are made with a file: I have also added a few layers; a strip of plexi and another layer of wood after that: After sanding the curve smooth in the front area, I used my router to make a rounded edge:
The painting has commenced. I have masked off the flame polished edges and the show faces of the perspex parts, and started vinyl dyeing them on the backside, just like Macroman did on his macroblack case. This gives a nice, glossy finish from the other side, and I hope the polished edges will give a nice effect too. I'm painting in light layers, and after the first layer, I could actually see finger prints form on the perspex... you can still see some marks from where I washed it with a cloth before painting. Probably won't show in the end, though. The perspex ready for painting:
Provided that your monitor does not have a captive cable, you could always use this: Startech 6ft DVI-VGA Cable Same thing as an adapter, only built into the cable. Amazing work so far, this is going to look great (However, I think a nice honey stain would look better, IMHO).
Yeah, I'm thinking of maybe giving it an oak or honey stain instead, but the darkness of the cherry would hide any imperfections in the woodwork (not that there is any.. )
hmm.. the dark color will actualy make any dents and such in the wood show better. Great work BTW" (but you already know that )
Yeah, but there might be some tiny cracks in some of the joints. I can't see them now, as they are filled with sawdust, but when I start getting liquid on them, they might show up... Anyway, I can get the case as dark as I want using layers of stain, so it's no problem really.
When I paint plexi on the backside I spary it slightly heavier then normal. I have found that the paint is pulled to any static-cling areas and can leave varried textures. This doesn't show up much using black though. It helps to use a anti-static cleaner first too.
Oh, I didn't know that. I figured I'd use light layers as Macroman warned that it might crackle if it is sprayed too heavy. But this is vinyl paint, and it should be ok using heavier coats, I guess... I'll do some heavier coats tomorrow then.
I started the samekind of mod at school, and we (me and my teacher) thought about the plexi on the top, and teacher said that No, it gets the scrathes more easier to see, if you get scrathses in your plexi... So I decided to do it from something else, but I am going to make the hole backboard from plexi!! It will be maybe more easier to revise then metal (?)... But this Idea is veeery great
