Do you know where I can find 90 degree elbow barbs with the 9/16-18 threaded fittings Danger Den uses? I received this threading info from their R&D guy. I want to set up 2x NV-68 blocks on my Asus A8N-SLI board. There is not enough room for the 1/2" tube to clear the bottom block, even on the more spacious A8N. My solution was to modify the straight barbs with elbow barbs like you suggested; this would kind of end up looking like the Innovatek NV-40 block's barbs. It seems Danger Den is having trouble tracking down elbows with their specific threading, so I may just have to solder copper non-threaded elbows directly to the blocks copper as a solution - what do you think?
Hi raf............i think you will have better luck finding them on your side as they are NP thread.....TBH i never looked over here as i always planed on linking the two blocks the way i have - i'll keep a look out though! I've also had to scrap the MSI board as the slots are just to close together at 40mm and fallen in line with the Asus A8N which are a much more feasible 61mm. I've had to cut off the / \ bits on the barbs which is going to leave enough room to add a very short piece of hose. Apparently all eyes are on this and Gainward UK has sourced me 2x Sli 6800 Ultra Golden Samples from Germany to play with so a big thanks to them...just waiting for them to get here now This is how the block looks with the barbs cut down and the blocks set at 61mm apart...
Looking great coolmeister. You may want to just post a little link in the extreme cooling forum. I dont usuallly read many of the logs so ive only just spotted this. Not long till its up and running by the looks of things
Holy crap , I could just cut the barbs short like you did instead of going through more trouble. I think it would totally clear the bottom block even with the thick tube. (can you confirm this?) The problem with using elbow barbs is how would you screw two in without one hitting the other??
The only problem with what you suggest is that without the / \ bit the hose could easily pull off the barb completely unlike the way i'm doing it as the little bit of hose is going to be literally wedged between the 2 barbs. I think you might just get away with it but it might be worth considering gluing the hose on after you cut the barb down.
Well, I was going to use hose clamps on all my equipment with or without the / \ bits as a precaution. I could also make little notches in the barb for the tube to have something to hold onto... maybe even sand it down so its rough?
RE: Your wavemaster How the hell did you get the entire thing apart?, I tried for a few hours yesterday to remove the lower front face plate off mine but got .. well no where.
There are two small self tapping screws on the underside which you need to take out and then one very small Allen head screw (red arrow below) needs to be taken out before the lower section will come off. Good idea........will do
ah man.. with your polishing skills... You should do a Coolermaster ATC 110 SX1 Clean surfaces, much space.. the only downsides are the price and weight. 7800 grams for a alu case. I love the entire set of triplet. Amazing work. After seeing your creations, they just made my want to by a Wavemaster . Thank God I Don't have the money!!! Mod on!
yeah, When that case first came out the price tag of 500 euros kinda suggested a short-period luxury case. And the selling rate kinda backed that up I guess.... Maybe some Taiwanese/Chinese company can revive that model like they did on the Lian Li PC-?60? But let's stick to this beautiful Shiny Wavemaster! - I read on Tomshardware roundup of cases review that the Wavemaster whas a particulary edgy and not really on the injury protected side of the picture was... What where you experiences with it Coolermiester?
