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Scratch Build – In Progress 1 of 3 Project :: DIY Aluminum CNC (Finish Lastest update 04/09/2013)

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by iD2, 11 Jul 2013.

  1. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    :D Thank you.

    Glad you give me some advice that good advice.

    For Y axis , Yes you right i lost some clearance distance but if put screw on the side of table it make machine bigger , i mean dimension for machine so if i put screw on the side of table it make my machine Y axis length add more 100mm and i get more clearance distance 100mm but if i extend Y axis by use same design 100mm so i will get same result.

    If do it like you say it will save some cost for ballscrew , rod rail , aluminum profile but after i compare the price it not much expensive just about 20-30$ So that why i decide to use this design because i not much expensive then that and i think it looking better (for me).

    For some design like you say :: This design i use linear guide
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    This design can fixed issued about put ballscrew on the side of table :: Using less thickness aluminum profile for mounting Rod rail , it make much more clearance distance and machine dimension still the same but if this design will not rigid if remove aluminum table top
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    Another design ::
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    :D i have about 10 version of design, not include minor change.


    For the design i need to design low cost machine by it can remove some parts such as table top and it will make cost cheaper but the machine still rigid and usable that my goal of my design , so what it look like :D see picture below

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    I know this will not good enough or perfect but it good enough for me right now.


    Sorry i'm not discuss but i'm try to describe what i'm doing why i do design like that and hope people to read this thread will get some advantage or idea to make their own

    (Sorry if i make you confuse for something i say , Not good in English. If i make you confuse please tell me i'll try to expand that)
     
    Last edited: 16 Jul 2013
  2. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Just got ballscrew , rod rail , ballscrew support and other stuff today now i got almost everything still waiting for stepper motor driver , breakout board.

    Ballscrew , Ballscrew support , rod rail and other ::
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    Wood base ::
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  3. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Now electronic kit just arrive and then i will go to wiring and test run stepper motor first and then i will go to drill and tap aluminum and aluminum profile , finally start assembly the machine.

    Electronic Kits ::
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    This components will use to start project no.2
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  4. Boorach

    Boorach Minimodder

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    Looks good. What is your estimated cost for the build if you don't mind me asking?
     
  5. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Thank you. For all components include Water cooled spindle + inverter + Aluminum profile for table top all of them not over 2,000$ but if don't need to use spindle and remove aluminum profile for table top by replace spindle with wood router and table top by wood ,it would be 1,400$ - 1,500$ and it will cheaper if don't use dual x-axis ballcrew and stepper motor drive.

    This design i'm try to make it as "low cost CNC" and i have another design with "low cost CNC"

    Another design :: Single X-Axis and use wood for table top
    [​IMG]


    :D
     
  6. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    After long time not update , just busy and have something to do. OK let's see some update progress and i think i will finish my machine not over 2 week.

    Tap aluminum profile ::
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    Mark drill & tap position of Z-Axis :: This can do 2 way, 1st like picture below , 2nd print my design as scale print :D but i choose 1st way.

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  7. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Finish build Z-Axis. More Picture see at my blog. iD2CNC.wordpress.com

    I used cheap power drill that i have , it not accuracy and not precision but i can make it more precision and accuracy by process of drilling but some hole will have +- 0.2-0.5mm and how to make it still fit when mounting that was simple. OK how? if need to drill 3mm hole then just drill 3.3mm or 3.5mm hole then 0.3-0.5mm of hole will use for adjust aluminum plate when mounthing. :D :D

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  8. ghostyjack

    ghostyjack What's a Dremel?

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    Fabulous.

    I just wish I had the technical knowledge and the money to be able to do this myself.
     
  9. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    just forgot video :D

    Edit :: update link


    sorry i'm still can not attach video.
     
    Last edited: 25 Jul 2013
  10. dream1

    dream1 What's a Dremel?

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    z axis is alive :)
     
  11. Big_malc

    Big_malc Minimodder

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    [ YOUTUBE][/YOUTUBE ]
     
  12. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Thank you, Big_malc

    I know it now , before i use but i put full url of my video but actully it use short url , url link after last "/"
     
  13. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Thank you.

    :D
     
  14. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Y Axis just finish. Only video but picture is coming (need time to upload , a lot of pictures) :D

     
  15. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Update Y Axis build progress. :D
    More pictures see at my blog :: iD2CNC.wordpress.com

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    Test assembly Y Axis video ::
     
  16. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Y Axis frame and frame base just finish, All you seed i'm doing by using cheap power drill ,hand saw , file ,abrasive paper and other in pictures.

    More pictures , iD2CNC.wordpress.com

    Y Axis frame & frame Base ::

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  17. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    For anyone who need to know how to drill big hole for mounting step motor , how i do?

    Big hole ::

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    How to drill big hole like picture above, it was easy to drill that hole without sending your part to lathe shop.

    1. Drill 38mm with hole saw , deep about 2mm

    2. Drill 35mm with step drill , then you will get same as picture abouve

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  18. Squigly

    Squigly MODfiend.. ~twitch~

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    :clap::clap:
    Really looking good!! this has to be one of the tidier CNC builds i have seen in a while, really really want to get started on one myself!! :dremel:

    :confused: Question though on your gantry, I notice you have made it straight as apposed to offsetting the gantry so the spindle sits centered, do you not loose some machining area on the X axis with the straight gantry?

    Something like this:
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    Last edited: 30 Jul 2013
  19. iD2

    iD2 Minimodder

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    Actually it not loose working area because it travel length as same as straight design but for straight design if you need same length working area as same like your picture you need to more length of X axis but not much.

    If your rod rail or linear guide length = 1000mm
    your Y Axis frame length = 200mm

    your travel length or working area of x = 1000 - 200 = 800mm

    But if straight design , x axis base length = 1000mm same as rod rail or linear , It will loose some working area because the spindle it not a center like you said but it can solve this problem by increase x axis base length about 50 - 100mm then you will get same working area.

    For straight design it will need more 20-50$ for increase x axis base length.

    But why i'm not do same design you attach image because that design will not easy to working with if you can't find some aluminum shop or milling shop to cutting aluminum same as your design and if it need to equal both side if it not equal when you do assembly machine it will make error (accuracy , precision when machine run)

    OK, Why i use straight design , It will easy to work with and aluminum supplier they can cut 90 degree angle , so i no need to find milling shop. I can do it with my cheap power drill and my standard tools such as file , hand tap , power drill, hole saw , step drill , F clamp and some drill bit that all tool i need to build CNC machine.

    Sorry i'm not good in English , if i make you confuse , any word or some word if it not correct please tell me i'll try to fix it and more expand.
     
  20. The_Crapman

    The_Crapman Don't phone it's just for fun. Staff

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    That is some seriously sexy hunks of metal.
     

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