i like this. pretty much the same method im using (except bigger and with custom wood) looking forward to the next update
This will look awesome! When I casted a mini-ITX case in concrete I made the "negative" form in Kapa foam board. When the concrete had hardened it was just to tear out the form in pieces. Another great material for mold making is Oasis and other plastic foams with small cell structure.
Don't you just hate the "watching the resin harden"? Like watching the glue dry on the wooden buck. Twiddle thumbs and surf the forum.
My experiance of fiberglass is that it takes about 1 hour to set, a day to fully cure and then you can work with it (like sand, cut, grind etc). My mix ratio was 10ml resin, 1 cm hardner but i was using a different system to you. I hope yours does work out and that you don't have to abandon the project as it's looking really good and a good concept. Stuart
Contact the retailer, if they have screwed up the instructions they should just give you another set for free. It would be a shame to abandon such a promising project.
D'oh... I was so looking forward to this, I love these exotic techniques like Fibre Glass and Carbon Fibre I could send you some over, as I've got some I don't need here, but buying it where you are would probably be cheaper xD
good luck dude hope it works out as like everyone else I was really looking forward to seeing it progress
looks like a very promising project, I like the fram you have already built. But allow me to give you some advice one the fiberglassing. I've done it for years in car audio projects, and trying to wrap aorund a temporary form, then transfer it is gonna be difficult at the least. Also, i mix my fibergalss "hot" meaning i use ALOT of catalyst. It dries within 2 hours, and then you can apply another coat or sand what you've done. If oyu wanna see how long it works for, put a bit of resin in a tub and add a decent amount of catalyst. If you added to much, it'll get really hot and start smoking! And you already know what happens if you don't add enough. 15% for a hot mix that dries quickly, but that means you have to move fast. I would wrap your entire "frame" in yellow masking tape(mulitple layers) and put your fiberglass directly over that. It'll conform perfectly, and the tape makes it easy to remove ith a bit of acetone or other adhesive remover. You just wrap the top, let it dry and remove, then wrap the bottom, dry and remove. now you have 2 halves(top and bottom) and they both conform to your original frame perfectly(or close). Now you retape the whole frame, and place your bottom and top halves on it at the same time. You remove any excess material so they both fit, preferably with a small gap between them, and you use a bit more fiberglass to fill the gap and let it dry. Remove your frame from your finished shell and it's done. Use body filler and finishing paste to smooth it out before paint. I've done a bunch of audio jobs similar to this, and my way will give you the best fit and least headaches, since you KNOW the finished form will fit. Just a suggestion, i know alot more about car audio fabricatio nthan i do about computer fab. That's why i'm haning out around here now If you want more tips, check out car audio forums, they have the most info on this technique good luck, don't give up! Lee
how many times did you polish that wood? i read you applied several layers then polished? its supposed to be: 1) apply wax. 2) polish wax 3) apply wax 4) polish wax ... ... ... ... ... 29) apply wax 30) polish wax ... ... ... ... 59) apply wax 60) polish wax
10% is an extreme amount of hardener. the exothermic reaction will be extremely dangerous. have you tested using 10% of hardener yet? thats pushing into epoxy resin territory.
