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250D Watercooling Plans - Check & Advice

Discussion in 'Watercooling' started by Impatience, 20 May 2014.

  1. Impatience

    Impatience Minimodder

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    I'm planning on making a low-mid range gaming (watercooled) ITX rig in a Corsair 250D. It'd be using an i3 and a 750Ti, so it doesn't NEED watercooling.. Its just that i'm becoming obsessed with it, so really want to build a rig with a custom loop! The only thing that's slightly worrying me is if it'd fit.. This is what i'm planning: (Yes, i'm copy pasta'ing the website names)

    - EK Water Blocks EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES (incl. pump)
    - EK-Supreme LTX CSQ Intel CPU Waterblock
    - EK-FC750GTX - Acetal Waterblock
    - Compression Fittings (I'm liking the look of the Monsoon 13/10mm (ID 3/8 OD 1/2) Free Center Compression Fitting - Orange)
    - Primochill Primoflex Advanced Tubing 13/10mm - Clear
    - Mayhems Aurora - Orillia Orange Coolant 1L
    -240mm Radiator

    Now, being a complete noob at watercooling.. I have no idea if those are good parts to use or not..? Also, as all of the parts are a low TDP, would it be possible to use a thick (45mm) rad and cool it passively? Or should I get a slim (30mm) and some fans? (There's 56mm clearance, so cant do thick with fans..)

    The layout I was thinking was Res/Pump - CPU - GPU - Rad and laid out in the case like this. .(I'm not sure about sizings for the pump/res though..)

    [​IMG]

    - Orange = GPU (Correct Size)
    - Green = Mobo
    - Blue = Pump/Res (Not sure on size)
    - Red = Blu-ray Drive
    - Purple = Rad

    Should this work out ok? My only worry is filling/draining the loop as the pump and res is at the bottom.. So how would I fill it before turning the pump on? (Isn't it bad to run the pumps with air in the tubes?)
     
    Last edited: 20 May 2014
  2. phuzz

    phuzz This is a title

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    Definitely don't run a pump without water going into the inlet, bad things will happen.
    If you leave enough slack in the tubing, you should be able to lift the res+pump up above everything else for filling. You might have to turn the case on it's side while you do so (I have to tilt mine onto it's back to get all the air out).
    Once it's filled you can put the cap back on the res and mount it back in the case.

    Looking at pictures of the 250D, you might be able to mount it on the back of the case, above the back panel of the motherboard, inside or outside the case.
    I also found this, which makes me think that a bay res might not be the best idea.
     
  3. Big Elf

    Big Elf Oh no! Not another f----ing elf!

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    The pump is OK, not high powered but enough for the couple of blocks and tubing you'll be using, fairly quiet too.

    CPU block is fine, not the best but good value for money if you like the circles.

    Make sure you get the Promichill Advanced LRT tubing to reduce the chance of plasticiser deposits.

    Depending on the Rad you choose there'll be little difference in performance between the different thickness's unless you go for very high fpi with high speed fans. You won't be able to use passive cooling.

    Use the simplest layout with the Res being before the pump. With adequate rad space it doesn't make much of a difference. Keep the tubing lengths short.

    Google that case and look for water-cooled builds to get and idea of what people have done before.
     
  4. Impatience

    Impatience Minimodder

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    @phuzz I've seen that you can get XSPC "T" fittings.. Would it be fine to get one of those and put it in the loop at roughly where the exhaust area is and as it's at the top of the loop, use the extra opening to fill the loop?

    @Big Elf I'll make note on the tubing.. Just read up on that and it's something i'd definitely want to avoid! :nono: And when I looked on google, nearly all "watercooled" 250D's are using a H100 (Or H110.. Not sure which one it is!)

    Is it safe to use the Mayhems Aurora fluid? I've read that it's classed as a "show fluid".. But have no idea what that means! :duh: Otherwise i'll be using the Pastel Orange mix. I've read on reviews that it's ready mixed with all the chemicals I'd need and that it's pretty good for cooling! :thumb:
     
  5. Big Elf

    Big Elf Oh no! Not another f----ing elf!

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    Much as I like the look of Aurora I haven't tried it as it wouldn't work in my system. It's supposed to be used for demo PCs and will only work properly in a simple loop otherwise the particles drop out of suspension and 'disappear'.

    I think Mayhem is working on a new version that has fewer of those type of problems but for the moment you'll be better with Pastel. It won't be better than distilled water for cooling but it won't be far off.
     
  6. Impatience

    Impatience Minimodder

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    Ahhh.. That makes sense! Since the watercooling's more for show than function (All of the components watercooled only add up to 130w, including the pump's wattage!) the temps should be pretty low regardless.. Especially as my H60 has the i3 runnning at 43* when heavy gaming!
     

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