Hippoz that might be a bad idea to solder everything, anything that comes in contact with the joints that maybe metal has the potential to short it to hell and back.
I think we can assume Hippoz insulated and secured everything appropriately! I learned how to solder when I was ~12yo with a 90w iron, the tip was nearly 1cm wide... if you took more than 1 second to complete the joint, most little things would just melt That iron was awesome for thick car audio power cabling however
hehe yeah electrical tape.. actually friction tape with electrical over it- it's overkill 90w jesus- that can cook- yeah might have been good enough for 2 gauge- well I shouldn't say I soldered everything..it was mainly the 14 gauge stuff I need to get me one of those mv edit- here's a picture of the metal piece I've added onto the wooden 20 element.. if you know anything about why this works how I tested it, was using aireplay-ng sending forged packets at an ap around 2 blocks away (had permission).. after setting it up on the tripod and getting it sighted in, I put the steel piece on top and started to play around.. it detuned badly and even dropped in some spots but right there in between the 3rd and 4th element, I went from around 120 data/sec to 245.. almost halved I don't know if this has anything to do with the wood or not.. probably need to join the ham radio league, just can't see myself getting into that though as I'm interested in other things really - but I ended up gluing it up top there for now the plastic one I'm not sure, have to make another one, gave it away to a friend.. but if you know anything about yagi's, I'd like to hear- I've combed about every part of the net looking for a reason why it would do this.. it doesn't actually transmit any farther, it seems to be a latency thing my theory is it's acting like a stop from some of the radio wave going down the boom, decreasing noise maybe.. don't really have any equipment to see the exact gains though other than my friends swr meter at work
Worked in Electronics since 16 years old to 40 years old approx (odd job change here and there). Mainly making circuits and repair(the proper way), not the IT teck of today style "oh its faulty change the board". So have made probably 10s of thousands of circuits over the years, so id say i was pretty good at soldering . I used to love doing MOD stuff, nice for knowing perfect solder joints, the testers used to take samples, take the solder of the joints, and check if the amount of solder was correct even. Now i only solder for my own projects or if freinds want me to fix stuff for them and things like that now. Try soldering a few thermal fuses (without using a heatsink) and get good joijnts without blowing them, this is always a nice little test.
I used to be really good, did a lot of surface mount stuff back in the day. I think I'm gonna do a soldered ATX cable for my next mod. Stuff is just too boring these days.
Thermal fuse test Cheesecake. The IT method unfortunately doesn't work for most TV components nowadays, there's just too many things to troubleshoot and no schematics. Back in the CRT days it was easy due to the main culprit transistors being the vertical or horizontal controllers. Now with the advent of huge modules, it's almost impossible to repair due to a lack of replacement transistors. Mind you it's always fun to pinpoint and check, but it's so disappointing to not be able repair it with just parts you can find separately.
I dunno actually... all I know is I taught myself when I found my dad's old iron in a cupboard whilst he was at work... maybe I was 10 as well when I lost my soldering virginity I can't remember, somewhere between 10 and 12... you're making me feel old I was an unofficial tv & video apprentice during school holidays from ~14yo, and the common culprits for us crt's were cooked dry & cracked solder joints, dried out capacitors, and cooked high voltage transformers - the one's that people think are deadly Soon enough I was tagging along for house calls, and also learned first hand about how many horny milf's would call up repairmen for service... These days I find it's usually the pcb having multiple layers, so forget repairing burnt traces, and if it's a single layer psu pcb, when we can often easily diagnose and source replacement components, the repair cost easily writes off the pcb anyway I'm over it, more than happy to just throw in a new board... and before throwing out the dead pcb, you can feel free to salvage any nice part you like
A few years back we got lots of 17" LCD monitors in for repair at work. (This was when 17" was "pretty cool", and 19" was "awesome") The only fault on must of them were bad soldering joint on a couple of inductors. It was really easy to fix, but since we weren't allowed to do this the monitors got thrown away, and the customers got a new one. I usually saved the old monitors and fixed them up. I gave away most of them to colleagues and family, but I did have a 6 monitor setup at one point. One of those displays got retired a couple of weeks ago after 7+ years of 24/7 service. There were also some 19" monitors that had caps that dried out. We didn't see many of them, but the ones that came in I fixed in the same manner.
Even though i was able to repair monitors (crt) at 16 -17, boss wouldnt let me touch them till i was 18, maybe insurance reasons i guess. With the advent of multilayer and smt, it sure did become hard to repair, unless you could repair from top/bottom layer, then not repairable, meant i would have to take a blank pcb from stores and start again. I do miss working in electronics, but so few jobs in my area nowadays, you gotta take whatever job is available (especially as i dont drive) nor wish too.
I don't know why you put that there It seems like a chunk of unwanted interference/reflections/etc. More reflectors in a sideways V will act like a basic radar dish, significantly boosting things, but why did you put that round thing there
a sideways v.. I tried different sizes of directors- and even stacking directors.. the whole thing fell apart performance wise I know it's basically wth did you do that for! it's not a distance thing- it has to do with improving the latency.. which makes me think there is noise when your dealing with 18 directors I never thought to add another reflector for a narrow beam do you have to adjust the length of the reflectors? I like the width it has in front of it, it covers a good area- but it wouldn't hurt to build one that acts more like a dish in case it needed more distance right now at 2 watts.. pretty much nothing it can't get- so not too worried about distance but I'd like to know more about tweaking the reflector.. sounds pretty cool especially since you could remove and add reflectors as needed if it worked needed a wider area to monitor (client and ap) or just ap edit- looked up on it some more.. might pass on the multiple reflector design- it looks like you do get more gain but it's not much.. love the thread below because it raged some bucktooths http://www.aurfscan.com.au/showthread.php?4131-Multiple-reflectors-on-a-Yagi
Hahah, me too man, i fondly remembering burning holes in my hand. Wow that was only 8 years ago. Go figure, I'm an unpaid official apprentice for my dad's shop since 12. And I really do miss the CRT days, those times were quite the easy times. Although RCA CRTs always did have a fondness for blowing out their transformers. And to this day, Panasonic still makes diagnosing problems a PITA. But dunno about the horny milf thing, most of the people in Cali don't seem to desire our other services. I'm cheap, sue me. But PSU PCBs aren't the issue. It's just all the other ones that cause us to lose money. Especially if it's particularily old, those things cost more than an arm. We got mountains of PCBs in the shop. Literally mountains, if we set fire to the shop, the entire neighborhood would die of silicon poisoning. Okay that doesn't make scientific sense but hey just a bit of hyperbole. Probably didn't want the tube to give you a new haircut. For me it's just finding the right parts, there isn't enough transistors lately.
Yeah, a basic form of a radar dish, just like you see on many tv antennas: http://www.google.com.au/search?tbm...pl=781l3422l0l17l9l0l0l0l0l625l1703l3-2.1.1l4 The more reflectors you add, the more signal your dipole will recieve. There should be a fair few websites out there for calculating the exact design... IIRC, each reflector might possibly need to be the same length as your current single reflector, and there was a formula for calculating the spacing, angle, etc... People even mess around with used tin cans as a radar dish and find nice results Definitely beat me there. I sense.... confusion.... Ohh, and everything becomes crystal clear Young grasshopper, clouds of distractions in your mind, experience you must seek, and focus you will be able, young padawan Makes perfect sense, you are being poisoned by silicon. Too much time in the shop... aren't there any bars or beaches in Cali
No Just a tangent. No I just never saw anyone attractive. With my skill, there's no need for bars. Beaches, well...
Please help. The quarter wave transformer found here: http://wifiantenna.wordpress.com/helical-antennas/ Anyone knows any source of good information on it?
There is no info on how to calculate the impedance of the strip, i know it is a micro strip but all the methods are for parallel strips, i can not find one for this gradual inclination one.
I'm not sure what you mean by impedance of the strip... and I assume you don't mean a boring strip tease which fails to arrouse. This is from your previous link:
I am talking about that copper strip that has an arrow with Wcoupl=0.6cm, he gives no way of calculating the impedance of that thing.
