Motors Anyone here drive a MK1 phase 2 Megane?

It's that time again - after killing my first Clio, and the second one only being a stopgap with a faked service history, I'm looking into a new car.

Car I'm looking at currently is a 2000 Renault Megane RT - 1.4 16v, with Alize trim, from a local garage (as opposed to private) - the car is immaculate inside and out, to the point of being able to eat dinner off the engine, and it's been maintained well - usually by the garage selling it, and it's costing about 2k.

Question I'm asking, is how are they to drive? Taking it for a test drive on Saturday, but for now, just wanting to know if there is anything I need to look out for, that could indicate any faults.

Possibly a fairly generic question, as it is in regard to buying a car, which most people in here would have experience in I'm assuming.

[/false edit] It also has 40k on the clock[/false edit]

Thanks in advance

 

I'd be wary if they've cleaned the engine bay. Usually it's just a dealer trying to impress, but every once in a while they've got something to hide. (Oil leaks etc).

Have a look here for more info, but the biggest point there is to check the clutch is ok, as it's an engine-out job to replace.

I know it's not quite what you asked for, but I thought I'd post it anyway.

 

i suggest on the test drive, find a point to bounce the rev limiter by 'accident of course' and upon returning to the garage check under the bonnet for any oil spray. i imagin a CV joint split and started spraying the bay.

they could be genunie and like to make there cars spotless.

personally i hate renualts, they arent made that well i have spent many weekends replacing parts on my girl friends cilo, most common part is the rear exhaust bracket, and on a MK2 there a sod to find! plus the plastic they use for the dash is so cheap, iv felt better plastic cups from a vending machine!

Forget the age of the car and focus on the budget, i could spend £1K on a old BMW 3 series with 150k on the clock and it will run rings around newer more expensive cars, and keep running. i look for brand rather than milage, outside iv got my 1994 Volvo 440 with 135K on the clock, and it still pulls like a train cost £1400 9 years ago. i expect it to die around the 230K mark as thats where my last volvo died.

yes it was a little off topic

 

Check it doesn't jump out of gear, particularly 2nd. Not sure where I heard that, but if it happens..

Check for *any* knocking whilst turning when driving.

If it's got a sunroof, check for signs of a leak. Also, check for signs of water damage in the boot, as when the bootlid's opened it can run into the boot. Check the doorsill's too.

Check the aircon works, if it has it.

Check all the electric stuff works.

Some are general things, but worth checking. Obviously if something's not right but it drives okay then it's something to help negotiate a price (or get fixed before you pick it up).

 

Thats absolute rubbish, it's called engine bay detailing, and people do it to show how clean and good condition it's in, not to hide stuff.

I clean the engine bay on my fabia vrs about twice a year with a degreaser and trim protector so it looks good and I don't covered in filth when I open it.

 

Not many people do engine bay detailing when they own a car, so you're more than likely finding an enthusiastic dealer cleaning everything, for good or ill. All I said was to watch out for it, not that it's definately a dodgy trick. They might just like to keep it clean, or the last owner might.

 

Ask whether or not the car has been started yet that day.

Before starting it, pop the hood and see what temperature the engine is. Make sure it's cold. Check the belts to make sure there isn't any soap or belt dressing on them.

Feel the rubber hoses. If you can crush them with your fingers, they are rotting from the inside.

Some cars (especially carbureted ones) might have trouble starting when cold, but after they've been warmed up, they start fine. Some dealerships may start up the car and idle it until the engine is fully warmed up, then turn it off, so that when you start it, it starts fine. Then you buy it and the next morning it takes like ten tries to get it started, and stalls out all the time until the engine is warm.

Often, cars have squeaky belts. A temporary fix for this is to hold a bar of soap against the belt in question, which lubricates it to make it stop squeaking. If you buy it, then a week later you hear squealing noises from the engine bay, that's what happened.

Hoses are a PITA to replace, so definitely check them out.

Also check the tire tread. If they're pretty worn, then you'll probably have to replace them within a year, which is like $500. Also check whether or not the wear is even. If the outer half of the tire is fine, but the inner half is badly worn (or vice-versa), that means your car is out of alignment, or has something wrong with the suspension.