I have heard people have flame polished acrylic and the results look amazing can this be easily done and how is it done (I know they must you flame but how much???)
Yeah, it's easy, and you probably don't really want to do it. At least you don't if you are going to join the edge to something. I use a microtorch, and it works best on 1/4" material. Just heat it up, the saw marks melt and the edge cools to a hard glossy finish. So why do I not recommend it? + It's dangerous--the acrylic can catch fire, you can succumb to the fumes, etc. + The material distorts significantly--try a test piece and see what I mean. + flame polished edges are subject to crazing (little cracks, they suck) especially if they get exposed to solvent cement later on. Hope that helps. It's not a useful technique for the most part.
thought you would answer!! thanks for your help I was just looking at how to get the best finish on the cut side of the acrylic as all I end up with is a mat unclear finish which looks pants!! And also this is not great for letting light through What would you suggest
Plastic polish. Their new hideous website is at http://www.novuspolish.com/ I use wet/dry snadpaper starting a 220 grit, then 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 (if you can get it) and then Novus #2. Rubbing compound would be a decent substitute for the novus, it will just take longer to clean up since its usually petroleum-based.
Well if you still are planning to use flame to polish your acrylic, you can find one at radioshack. it's really cheap but it doesnt come with fuel so you'd have to get that on your own. http://www.radioshack.com/product.a..._name=CTLG_005_006_002_003&product_id=64-2188 I have a question for linear or whoever else whos planning on making their own acrylic cases. Right now, i'm trying to drill holes for my cdrom and hard drive but i cant seem to find a way to measure the holes because the acrylic has a paper back so i can't see through. I tried taking the paper off and doing it but i ended up scratching it up like hell. I thought about using standoffs so i can mark out the holes but there has to be an easier way? Even with the paper off, my measurements were off by a little bit, and being off by a little bit is crucial !
Take some scrap, remove the backing, and make a template. Use the templat to mark your real piece. Another (better) way is to cut slots instead of drill holes. It's tough if you haven't got a router, but it gives you freedom to move the drives front-to-back.
