1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Cooling Athlon 64 FX Waterblock design -Cascade style

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by ZapWizard, 19 Dec 2003.

  1. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

    Joined:
    19 Sep 2002
    Posts:
    4,705
    Likes Received:
    5
    Ok, I have my 5950 waterblock designed, next I need a waterblock for my Athlon 64 FX51

    After tons of research I have decided on a cascade style block.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The entire thing may be slimed down and made entirely of copper.
    (To match my 5950 Block)

    The copper jet tubes may simply become normal plastic tubes.
     
  2. Arkangyl

    Arkangyl What's a Dremel?

    Joined:
    16 Dec 2003
    Posts:
    39
    Likes Received:
    0
    5950... no an FX-51...

    someone win the lottery? :naughty:


    JK... looks petty spiffy though..

    mind if I ask why you have all the barbs at 90* here and not strait? seeing as the 90 isn't needed for the CPU and it restricts flow a bit I'm suprised to see you going that route
     
  3. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

    Joined:
    19 Sep 2002
    Posts:
    4,705
    Likes Received:
    5
    Due to the design of the case these parts will go in.
    (Images in a few weeks probably)
    Plus I hate the look of tons of random tubes inside a PC.
     
  4. Carbon

    Carbon Banned

    Joined:
    8 Jan 2003
    Posts:
    1,912
    Likes Received:
    2
    god zap, are you the robot outa short circuit ?
     
  5. Sc0rian

    Sc0rian Here comes the farmer

    Joined:
    23 Feb 2003
    Posts:
    3,542
    Likes Received:
    2
    i got the 5700ultra FX today. Got to setup watercooling on tht
     
  6. Conrad

    Conrad What's a Dremel?

    Joined:
    23 Jul 2003
    Posts:
    636
    Likes Received:
    0
    if you keep your barbs at right angles like that you wont be able to get in to the screw underneath for mounting the block. fine if your fitting the block without and tubes attached, but a right bugger if you just wanna change the chip or something. Otherwise looks good, how are the copper pins attached to the middle part of the block, or do they just roam free?
     
  7. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

    Joined:
    19 Sep 2002
    Posts:
    4,705
    Likes Received:
    5
    I am aware of that, still working on that part.
    I will probably just attach the tubes after the block is installed.

    The copper pins are installed by heating them and pushing them into the plexi.
    (The plexi having holes slightly smaller then the copper tube)
     
  8. Guest-16

    Guest-16 Guest

    its probably easier and more water safe to just buy some right angled brass barbs and some teflon tape.
     
  9. Pygo

    Pygo Rick Relixed

    Joined:
    26 Jan 2003
    Posts:
    2,179
    Likes Received:
    8
    Cool. :brrr: I like it. A suggestion/question though. Adding more pins would of course decrease water flow. This would improve cooling performance assuming the water flow is not too restricted though. And make it would look more cool, and appealing to the male eye.
    Maybe have them even hight in the middle, then get smaller as they get closer to the outlets. Or vise versa. That may hinder cooling performance though, depending on how thick the base of the block is. But if the current design, then thats fine with me... It looks sweet either way :thumb:

    I agree with you on the messy tubing stuff. Neet cables and everything is much better, and makes future dust cleaning a lot easier. (if not upgraded by then, but depends on how dusty your house is.)
     
  10. 8-BALL

    8-BALL Theory would dictate.....

    Joined:
    6 Nov 2001
    Posts:
    1,551
    Likes Received:
    4
    They aren't pins.

    They are small tubes which fit nicely into each of the small cups/dimples on the base plate creating a dual impingement effect.

    Can't really get them that much smaller or the flow through each will be too low, and manufacturing will become prohibitively expensive.

    8-ball
     
  11. M_D_K

    M_D_K Modder

    Joined:
    3 Apr 2002
    Posts:
    6,265
    Likes Received:
    106
    Tis lucky Cather don't copyright his ideas cause dang nabit someone else is joining the band wagon lol

    the design is looking interesting, artn't those right angles gonna removes som precias flow from the design.

    Also scrap the hole might make it out of copper idea that thing will be like hanging a brick of the socket if you catch my drift. Not sure if having the little tubes seperate from the middle plat is a good idea to be honest, cather hit the nail on the head by makingit all out of one piece of Acrylic.

    ok looking good so far right finish my posting later gtg keep it up dude
     
  12. UnLoadeD

    UnLoadeD What's a Dremel?

    Joined:
    2 Jan 2002
    Posts:
    865
    Likes Received:
    0
    Looks nice so far. I realize you aren't done yet, but I'm wondering about two things.
    1) I see the two mounting holes, but where are the holes for keeping the three pieces together?
    2) On the middle piece, how are you gonna keep the flow seperate between the nozzle tubes and the outlet holes? Looks like there could be some migration between them.

    peace.
    unloaded
     
  13. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

    Joined:
    19 Sep 2002
    Posts:
    4,705
    Likes Received:
    5
    Oh, I was talking about the small copper tubes in the middle layer.
    The top will have barbs though.

    Well the rendering isn't 100% complete.

    I think you are looking at the exploded view.
    (They are flipped for viewing)
    When assembled there is no cross-connection
     
  14. TetarZ

    TetarZ What's a Dremel?

    Joined:
    16 Dec 2002
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    0
    Those 90 degrees angle will drastically reduce your flow. Maybe you could get some slanted (spelling?) barbs as seen on some chipset/gpu waterblocks on pug's site. It will probably be harder to machine though.
     
  15. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

    Joined:
    19 Sep 2002
    Posts:
    4,705
    Likes Received:
    5
    The problem is the amount of space I will have above the CPU in the first place, so I need 90 degree connectors.

    I may use two sets of 45degree copper tubing connectors to make it a little less sharp, yet still compact.

    I plan on using a strong Eheim pump, so it should be able to push enough flow though everything.
     
  16. penski

    penski BodMod

    Joined:
    29 Aug 2002
    Posts:
    8,159
    Likes Received:
    2
    It's going to be to the height of an AGP/PCI card anyway isn't it? (unless of course you're placing HDDs or similar above the waterblock...)

    you should be able to get a decent radius in that restriction...Maybe use copper pipe...

    *n
     
  17. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

    Joined:
    19 Sep 2002
    Posts:
    4,705
    Likes Received:
    5
    Yep, as high as the AGP, plus it's own pipes.

    I am now thinking of just using a single copper pipe bent smootly.
    (No joints)

    Also I have lots of parts on their way, so a project log is coming soon.
     
    Last edited: 29 Dec 2003
  18. mclean007

    mclean007 Officious Bystander

    Joined:
    22 May 2003
    Posts:
    2,035
    Likes Received:
    15
    ????????????

    Don't want to be pedantic, just wondering what you mean - is it "i am now thinking..."?
     
  19. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

    Joined:
    19 Sep 2002
    Posts:
    4,705
    Likes Received:
    5
    Doh :duh: typo..fixed now.
     
  20. dudeyourmomiscute!

    dudeyourmomiscute! What's a Dremel?

    Joined:
    14 Dec 2003
    Posts:
    108
    Likes Received:
    0
    zap, swiftech has similiar waterblocks that your planning to build, why not "borrow" their design with the 45* tubes instad of 90* copper pipes that restrict flow?
     
Tags:

Share This Page