Electronics ATi AIW 9800 PRO problems - Power Delay Relay Circuit needed

I know you were talking to shadoi but I need this circuit badly. I have an 9800se AIW and mine loads up fine if I do the unplug and plug in with the extra power lead. Works obsolutly fine when its running no stability problems at all. I have Antec True Power 430w.

I would pay you £20 or whatever for it. Hope you can help!

 

Hi phils, and welcome to the forum!

Since you asked so nicely, yes, I can make one for you. (for £20 or less)

Will post again either this eveing or tomorrow, once I've costed up the parts.

If you go through with it and purchase one, I'll let you return it should it not do the job you want it to. (Money back 'dead on arrival' type thing)

I'm a bit suprised that the card doesn't behave properly in a system with such a decent power supply - I thought this was a problem limited largely to the mini ITX and Shuttle type PCs... what other hardware is there in your PC?

 

hey bodger thanks for your reply.

Would really appreciate your help so thanks.

I'll check back when you have listed up the costs.

Thanks again

 

also about the power supply.

I have nothing major in my PC. I can run a 9600 in it fine without any boot problems.

I think that maybe just my PSU, MOBO, Graphics card don't quite boot quite right together.

But anyway a delay is all thats needed so the circuit should work a treat.

 

Hi, still trying to get prices on afew components. So far, it looks like it will cost about £15.

Have completed designing the PCB, will post it later. However, I have one problem:

Does anyone know where to buy PCB mounting Molex Male / Female connectors?

I suspect Farnells do them, but cannot find them. If someone could post the Farnell order codes for such items here, it would be much appreciated. Otherwise, I'll just use 'flying lead' molex connectors, like in the prototype.

 

Thanks a lot Bodger

I don't know about the molex connectors. But as long as it works it doesn't matter

Keep me informed how its progressing

 

Just a quick update on progress on the delay switch:
1) I'll use flying lead molex connectors, similar to those on the prototype unit.
2) I've designed a new, improved version of the PCB: It now features 'status; LEDs. This will cost about 50p extra, but I feel it is a major improvement, since will indicate on the board whether power is being supplied from the PSU, and whether the output is on or off. (good for setting the device up and / or trouble shooting.

Below are two pictures of the PCB for the device. (minus the status LEDs). If anyone spots an error in the design, please let me know here - I'm planning to make the final PCB on Sunday.

Schematic below is printed at 2x real life size. (real board is approx. 60mm x 55mm, including 4x mounting holes in the corners)

​

 

Hi, might not be much use, but might shed a bit of light...

As far as I can make out, the problem is not caused by low power from the Shuttle supplies, it's the Over Voltage Protection (and it's not on all Shuttles PSUs so some work fine!). Apparently, when the system boots, the card sucks in so much voltage that the PSU thinks there's a fault and shuts off Believe it's the same problem with the Antec supplies (cos I have one of them in my other system).

I've just bought one of these cards and stuck it in my SN45G and it didn't work. So I stuck it in my *BIGGER* system (b4 I found out all this!!) wondering if it was a power issue (Antec True Power) and got the same problem - so I figured it was the card. Funny thing is the shop tested it, got the same problem so swapped it out for me! Thank god they were using OVP supplies too otherwise I'd have looked a proper fool Only then did I think it may be a REAL problem. and unfortunately it is.

Anyway, I've only been reading up on all this tonight, but I've got two things to try - someone reckons using the floppy power without the splitter will work (why & how?!?) so I'll pick up an extension tomorrow to give that a go (cos it's super cheap) and there's a 250W psu (SilentX) which apparently works (believe it doesn't have OVP) about £40. If none of this works, can I PLEASE put an order in for one of these funky circuits!

Thanks

 

Well done bodger.

Looks great. Cheers for doing this.

Hey Jonny Jay i've tried what your saying.. didn't work for me.

LED implementation sounds really good, again keep me informed on the progress. Your the man bodger

 

Have you tried the new PSU? Please let me know cos I won't bother if you've had no joy...

Hmm... what about an external PSU... rig up a 500watt outside and feed the power in... Need to find a PC this card works in first tho to see what PSU I should buy!

 

I orginally had an Aopen power supply 350w and it didn't work with that so I got the Antec True Power thinking it'll have to work with this one.. but no luck.

I think its not just the PSU.. i think the motherboard makes a difference aswell.

Anyway i'd confirm the PSU works before buying a new one!

 

Rapid do the 4-pin PCB-mounting male halves (like on the drive end) in 90° (22-2925 @ 58p) and straight (22-2920 @ 44p)

Female only as flying lead.

 

Thanks for that cpemma, I also managed to find them at Farnells. Again only the male end though. Since I'd rather have both the input and output looking similar, I've decided that unless I can find the female end in PCB mounting, (unlikley) then I'll leave them both as flying lead. Thanks for finding them though.

As for a quick update, I've been to Maplins and bought a set of components for the unit, and I've prepared the PCB for etching. Should have a unit completed by Wednesday.

 

well done bodger

sounds like its coming along very well.

keep me posted!

 

Just a quick update. I found out yesterday that my ferric chloride had gone bad. Looks like the damp and freezing conditions in my workshop over winter have done something strange to all my PCB making chemicals. (I purchase the liquid stuff, not the granules). Therefore the PCBs are now going to be made on Friday, when I get some fresh stuff.

 

thanks for the update. let me know how you get on

 

Update! Got the PCB made today . Will post piccies at the bottom of this post this evening. I now have all the parts to complete the circuit, except for the LEDs - Maplin didn't have any of the ones with the internal regulating resistor in stock, and thats what I designed the PCB for.

Not to worry tho, I'm off to Farnells to get them this weekend.

EDIT:
As promised above, a pic of the PCB!!

​

Has been cut to size, but holes haven't been drilled yet.

 

great

can't wait to see the pics. cheers!

 

Hi, good to see the circuit is progressing well.

I bought the new Shuttle 250W psu as I figured I may as well give it a try. Stuck it in and, whaddya know... it worked! XPC now boots up straight away. How cool is that!

What's not so cool is that I can't ACTUALLY play games... windows runs like a dream, butwhenever I stick a game on (tried Max Payne2 and Halo) I get either texture smearing (HALO) or a checkerboard effect (MP2). Any ideas please? I figured could be a power thing so I disconnected my second HD and all my USB stuff, so it's my Athlon 3.2, 1GB DDR, HD and DVD drive in there but no luck. Could this stuff really take all my 250W? Any help or ideas would be VERY welcome!

Thanks

John

 

I doubt that the smearing / other problems are due to voltage / power supply problems. Could it be drivers? Try the latest reference drivers for the card and see if it makes a difference.

Having said that, modern computer parts do consume huge amounts of electricity - for example:

Athlon 3200+ : 77 Watts.
IDE hard drive: 28 Watts.
DVD Rom : 19 Watts.
1Gb DDR : 60 Watts.
Motherboard : 30 Watts.
Cooling fans : 6 Watts.
Keyboard +Mse:3 Watts.
Graphics Card: ??????

The graphics card would only need to draw 27 Watts to overload the PSU. This is very possible since the Nvidia GeForce 4 Ti 2600 draws 29 Watts.

One way of checking may be to check the PSU voltages when the system is running flat out doing graphics benchmarks. This would reveal any voltage variations. However, I stull suspect that this is not the case, since normally hardware simply crashes if the voltage is too low.