I am going to be modding an Antec SX-1030B (Chieftec Dragon rebranded), similar to what Pug has done. However, I am planning to try to keep the "notch" between the center section and the outer section of the case, rather than have a smooth surface across. I am going to be using Alloy 3003-H14 Aluminum Perforated sheets, about 20ga (.032" thick). I was thinking of using double stick tape behind the panel to hold the mesh in place (I am probably going to stick with the raw aluminum finish), or possibly cyanoacrylate adhesive (CA, or superglue if you prefer) I am also going to use the CA to attach some black window screen behind the sheet, partly to try to keep the view of the steel of the case down, and partly to try to keep out the pet hair (one dog, two cats) The window screen is currently up in the air, as I am not sure how it will look with it... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jason A.
just use some epoxy but double stick tape will work ,...were did u score this modders mesh of yours and please post a pic or link to it,....welcome to the forums
Someone on another forum (GideonTech) suggested I take a look at this site: http://www.mcmaster.com/ and then do a search for the part number 9232T131. Originally I was looking to do brass, but the only staggered pattern brass they have has .020" holes (1/50th of an inch!) Also, the brass runs $13 per linear foot for the cheapest they have. The aluminum is only $27 plus shipping, which my wife is OK with letting me spend. Plus I'm going to use a chunk to cover over a furnace vent on the roof to keep some d*mn birds out.... Jason A. PS I did try going through another site that will quote on pieces, and for brass (cartridge brass), a 30x40" sheet with 5/32" holes on 3/16" centers, 22ga, would have been $565!! Needless to say, I don't want to mod my case with brass that bad!
If I understand what you mean (you want to mould it in but keep the channel surrounding it), you should be able to do it in a similar way as I did but just leave a lip to butt up to with the fibreglass filler. Saying that, I'm not sure whether I've got the right idea of what you're doing, so feel free to elaborate if I can help.
Having just taken a better look at the door of the case, I am changing my original plan. I had intended to cut out the entire center section, including the bottom of the channel, and then bend the metal to shape. Now I am going to leave the bottom of the channel in place, and bend around behind it, attaching the metal to the back edge of the door. This should also work for the lower portion. As I said, the original plan was to remove even the bottom of the channel.. I am for now going to try to hold the metal in with CA superglue, and see how it goes. I may spring for some good two part epoxy or such if it doesn't work out... Also, the carbon fiber decal will be continued down the sides of the bottom of the case when I am done.... Thanks, Jason
