Just ran across a few of these in some threads that I've been reading and have a question. Let me tell ya, I have little to no experience/use/knowledge of wiring, etc... So, if I were to buy one of these, would connecting it as a power and/or reset switch be pretty simple? Would it just take connecting the power wires to the connections on the back of the switch, or is there more to it? Oh, I've Nobody?
Yes very simple, the Bulgin has 4 screw contacts, the ones marked with (+) and (-) are for the built in LED, the other two are for the switching mechanism. So cut of your current powerswitch (or reset) cable (at the switch end) and stick those 2 cables in the Bulgin non-marked screwholes, doesn't matter which goes where. The LED is same procedure, just take notice of the anode(+) and kathode(-) sequence, connect it, if it doesn't light up just switch the cables around. Take note that you can connect the HDD or power activity LED's without any problem, just don't put +5 volts directly on the LED without a limiting resistor.
OK, I'm totally new at this too, and this is slightly off topic, but I was wondering if I could use a bulgin vandal switch to power my CC lights. I have 2 inverters, each with 2 lights connected to it. I wanted to make sure the switch could work for the 12v (I assume) circuit, and also what I need to connect to the + and - contacts for the LED to work... just a red and black from one of my molex connectors? Thanks! -Justin
AFAIK these are only available as momentary-on switches, so you'll need a flip-flop to make it an on/off switch.
And I thought the vandal switches with the illuminated ring were lock-on switches... http://www.bulgin.co.uk/PDFs/CatNo80/Page_163_2003_Cat.pdf Isn't that what "Push to make" means? -Justin
push to make (PTM) means you have to push(and be pushing) to make the connection. _______ ----o o---- auf asci
OK, so I just have to have one of these flip-flop circuit? Even if it's cold cathode lights I'm gonna be running, not fans? Hah any chance I can pay one of you guys to make me one and mail it out here? -Justin
erm if CP has designed them for a FAN, he will of no doubt calculated the whattage of it (so it won't burn out), because he is funny like that (rather than my *shurgs looks to have enough heatsink rich, tell u what, if it burns out, i'll buy lunch*). As such just make sure that your CCFL invertor dosent need more whatts than i will supply (i am gessing they are both 12v, so u can just check the AMPs, remeber whatts = volts * amps).
The version with the MOSFET will certainly be fine for driving your CCFL, though you might want to add a protection diode in parallel with the load as MOSFETs are easily damaged. A large capacitor on the supply rails to this little circuit will prevent it messing up if the CCFL inverter has a high inrush current.
OK, well cool, thanks Stevey. Would you be willing to make me one of those boards if I pay you? Or know anyone that will? Thank -Justin
So on those numbers it will dissipate over 22W full load, and need a pretty damn big heatsink, but the bare transistor (no sink at all) will stand around 3 amps (W= I2R = .99W plus a bit for switching losses) just don't touch it. A protection diode across the load is always good value for the extra couple of pence, though the IRF530 has a built-in fast diode between drain & source.
if u live in the uk m8 where did u get the switch from am after 1 or any else no where i can get 1 from it has to be a 22mm di. thanx
Hah I have no clue what any of the electrical stuff you guys mentioned means at all... as long as I have something I can put between my PSU and my CC light inverter that will let me use a bulgin switch to turn them on and off. As far as the switch itself, these two places have them, but they're both US: http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebComm...ults.jsp?action=0&First=0&QText=bulgin+switch http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...d=573&osCsid=06e75a22d378d9b97001213c242c9135
Nobody wants to solder me a couple of circuit boards? lol come on, make me an offer. I'm perfectly willing to pay someone to make them for me.
How many volts does the LED in the bulgin switch need? 3V ? thanks L sorry for the noob question, but for some reason I had in mind that it was a 12V led
If you hop to http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Switches/Illuminated.html you'll find the spec sheets for the switches/
Is it possible to order a bulgin switch and take it apart to replace the LED with something bigger/better/brighter? I know they're vandal resistant and all...but is that only from the front? -Jas
I tried to take one apart, after I burnt out the led because of too much juice, but that's a different story. Vandal Resistant doesn't quite describe it. Surviving a nuclear blast is probably more accurate! I could not get into that thing without permantly damaging the switch. I wouldn't reccomend anyone try, especially since they are so expensive.
