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Electronics Bulgin illum. vandel switch

Discussion in 'Modding' started by Guido, 2 Feb 2004.

  1. Guido

    Guido New Member

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    Just ran across a few of these in some threads that I've been reading and have a question. Let me tell ya, I have little to no experience/use/knowledge of wiring, etc...

    So, if I were to buy one of these, would connecting it as a power and/or reset switch be pretty simple? Would it just take connecting the power wires to the connections on the back of the switch, or is there more to it?

    Oh, I've :search:

    Nobody?
     
    Last edited: 3 Feb 2004
  2. coorz

    coorz Miffed

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    Yes very simple, the Bulgin has 4 screw contacts, the ones marked with (+) and (-) are for the built in LED, the other two are for the switching mechanism.
    So cut of your current powerswitch (or reset) cable (at the switch end) and stick those 2 cables in the Bulgin non-marked screwholes, doesn't matter which goes where.
    The LED is same procedure, just take notice of the anode(+) and kathode(-) sequence, connect it, if it doesn't light up just switch the cables around.
    Take note that you can connect the HDD or power activity LED's without any problem, just don't put +5 volts directly on the LED without a limiting resistor.
     
  3. Guido

    Guido New Member

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    This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks coorz!
     
  4. ASCII

    ASCII New Member

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    OK, I'm totally new at this too, and this is slightly off topic, but I was wondering if I could use a bulgin vandal switch to power my CC lights. I have 2 inverters, each with 2 lights connected to it. I wanted to make sure the switch could work for the 12v (I assume) circuit, and also what I need to connect to the + and - contacts for the LED to work... just a red and black from one of my molex connectors?

    Thanks!
    -Justin
     
    Last edited: 18 Apr 2004
  5. cpemma

    cpemma Ecky thump

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    AFAIK these are only available as momentary-on switches, so you'll need a flip-flop to make it an on/off switch.
     
  6. ASCII

    ASCII New Member

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    Last edited: 18 Apr 2004
  7. TheAnimus

    TheAnimus Banned

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    push to make (PTM) means you have to push(and be pushing) to make the connection.
    _______
    ----o o----

    auf asci
     
  8. ASCII

    ASCII New Member

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    OK, so I just have to have one of these flip-flop circuit? Even if it's cold cathode lights I'm gonna be running, not fans?
    Hah any chance I can pay one of you guys to make me one and mail it out here? :D

    -Justin
     
    Last edited: 18 Apr 2004
  9. TheAnimus

    TheAnimus Banned

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    erm if CP has designed them for a FAN, he will of no doubt calculated the whattage of it (so it won't burn out), because he is funny like that (rather than my *shurgs looks to have enough heatsink rich, tell u what, if it burns out, i'll buy lunch*).

    As such just make sure that your CCFL invertor dosent need more whatts than i will supply (i am gessing they are both 12v, so u can just check the AMPs, remeber whatts = volts * amps).
     
  10. SteveyG

    SteveyG Electromodder

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    The version with the MOSFET will certainly be fine for driving your CCFL, though you might want to add a protection diode in parallel with the load as MOSFETs are easily damaged. A large capacitor on the supply rails to this little circuit will prevent it messing up if the CCFL inverter has a high inrush current.
     
  11. ASCII

    ASCII New Member

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    OK, well cool, thanks Stevey. Would you be willing to make me one of those boards if I pay you? Or know anyone that will?

    Thank
    -Justin
     
  12. cpemma

    cpemma Ecky thump

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    So on those numbers it will dissipate over 22W full load, and need a pretty damn big heatsink, but the bare transistor (no sink at all) will stand around 3 amps (W= I{param}R = .99W plus a bit for switching losses) just don't touch it. :eeek:

    A protection diode across the load is always good value for the extra couple of pence, though the IRF530 has a built-in fast diode between drain & source.
     
  13. andy_roo

    andy_roo New Member

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    if u live in the uk m8 where did u get the switch from am after 1 or any else no where i can get 1 from it has to be a 22mm di. thanx
     
  14. ASCII

    ASCII New Member

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    Last edited: 19 Apr 2004
  15. ASCII

    ASCII New Member

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    Nobody wants to solder me a couple of circuit boards? lol come on, make me an offer. I'm perfectly willing to pay someone to make them for me. :D
     
  16. Lovah

    Lovah Apple and Canon fanboy

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    How many volts does the LED in the bulgin switch need? 3V ?

    thanks
    L

    sorry for the noob question, but for some reason I had in mind that it was a 12V led
     
  17. Risky

    Risky Well-Known Member

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  18. Trekari

    Trekari New Member

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    :blush:

    Is it possible to order a bulgin switch and take it apart to replace the LED with something bigger/better/brighter?

    I know they're vandal resistant and all...but is that only from the front?

    -Jas
     
  19. Risky

    Risky Well-Known Member

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    I have a couple and it looks pretty hard to do, if at all possible.
     
  20. curme

    curme New Member

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    I tried to take one apart, after I burnt out the led because of too much juice, but that's a different story. Vandal Resistant doesn't quite describe it. Surviving a nuclear blast is probably more accurate! I could not get into that thing without permantly damaging the switch. I wouldn't reccomend anyone try, especially since they are so expensive.
     

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