Cooling Cascade better than White Water !

AS it says above.

The Cascade is a new block being put out by Cathar the creator of the White Water block.

The new Cascade can beat the White Waters temps by 2C. Now 2C is not a huge improvement, except that makes it about 7C better than a Maze 3.

Cathar has threads on several sites and will be taking orders for the Cascade just as he did in the beginning for the White Water. Here is a list of web sites where he's posted at.

Amdmb

Pro Cooling

Extreme Systems

Over Clockers

[H]ardocp fourms

I'm sure there are others but these are ones that I know of for sure. Last I knew he hasn't set a price on them yet.

And perhaps best of all. This design he intends to develop beyond what he did with White Water. In the future he's saying he will be looking into bringing out GFX, NB & Pelt versions of the Cascade design.

I myself feel pretty interested in the CPU & GFX blocks. The NB will depend on the price asked, but would be nice to have a full matched set from this master block maker.

BE

 

do we have any pics?

its ok, found it

oc linky

 

There are 5-6 pics shown of the block and it's parts at each of the sites listed.

 

The price will be USD80 here the link
Cascade Pricing

 

Should be interesting....If any of you get one make sure to come back and post some pics....

 

I've e-mailed Cathar and asked to be on the list for both the CPU and the follow-up GFX block.

No idea yet when I'll have it in hand though. Most likely a month or so, less if I'm lucky.

BUT:

Note: Guy at Extreme Systems is expecting delivery today or tomorrow of the proto type used in the pictures posted around.

 

Scuse the off-topic but BE, I've been trying to email you recently but the mails have bounced.
I found those drive coolers you wanted.

 

I still think the ones you stock are the nicest. The it would be nice if someone came up with a copper based version, for those who fear corrosion.

8-ball

 

Also, looking at the MEGA expensive cooler you linked to, I'm assuming they are trying to cool the lid of the hard drive, which has very lieely benefit. The best way to cool a hard drive is though the side.

8-ball

 

Pug,

OMG, man thanks for the great job of hunting it down. Right at the moment I'm tight. I just ordered a Lain-Li case, and as you see here I'm commited to a Cascade CPU & GFX. Have also ordered some odds and ends such as extra fans for the case.

But be sure I won't forget you when I'm ready to get a drive cooler. Due to the price differance I may switch to the one you normally carry. But to be honest, if I can swing it I'm going for the eye candy. But what ever the choice I may make, I'll go through you for it.

Thanks for your efforts! The e-mail thing is a problem with my ISP company. It's POing me pretty bad. I'd drop them but as they are half again to double the connect speed of my other option in my area I hate the idea of dropping them. Will have to contact them again. Once again thanks for your help with this! !

8-Ball,

You are of course correct, cooling is best done throught the sides of the drive. While the pics in that link don't show it that cooler DOES cool both sides as well as the top & even the front (sealed end). I have to doubt it would silence a drive as well as Pug's drive cooler-silencer can, it doesn't enclose the bottom of the drive as the one Pug carrys does. But being on both sides, top and the drives closed end it should lower noise pretty well along with very fine cooling. In fact I think it will do the best job of cooling a drive of any drive cooler I've seen. I've also thought that I can make it equal Pug's line of coolers in noise reduction by adding a bit of velcro to the bottom of the two sides and tack on some noise reducing foam on the bottom. Just due to the eye candy touches and a lot of machining on CNC it's damned high in price. The Germans make great and gorgeous stuff but it comes at high cost.

The aluminum content IS a problem without question, and I doubt we'll see one of copper unless it's slender and just on the sides of the drive. Even then it would be quite heavy. My solution, if you can call it that is this.

A secondary loop, separate from the main cooling loop. Could use, and will need to, a small Hydor L20 with 3/8" or 8mm lines along with a Black Ice Pro or Extreme. I'll add in some strong anti-corrosive content to the water. With what this thing costs I'll not risk damge to it if I'm able to get one. 20% anti-freeze + some water wettter as well perhaps.

The bottom line is this 8-Ball, I've NEVER seen another item of any type that adds such a unique look as this drive cooler does. Lit up in a case with a set of UV lights and a top window it would be a eye grabber. It's to bad they don't show more about the coolers total features on the link. Some very good machine work involved.

By the way, I'm guessing that little jewel is priced at around $165.00 USD, before figuring in cost of getting it accross to the US. Havn't checked monetary exchanges of late, but will need to now.

 

8-Ball,

I should have noted this. The inlet is into one side and the outlet on the other side. Looks like the Innovatek drive cooler set up, but with all the extra top & front material and channels added.

 

8-Ball,

Check this link, more & differant pics of that cooler.

www.cooled-cases.de

Other interesting items in their water cooling section as well.

 

The only problem I foresee with that style of cooler, is that cooling performance is stronlgy dependent on the clamping pressure across an interface. Given that the distance of the side walls is fixed due to it all being one piece, I don't see how this could clamp onto the sides of the hard drive firmly enough to make a good contact.

Just food for thought.

8-ball

 

Good points, but doesn't the one pug sells and any others that will help with noise have the same fault then?

 

I agree.

If you're serious about watercooling (efficiently) your hard drives AND enclosing them for silence, you'd probably be better off using something like the innovatec blocks, clamped firmly to the side of the HD, and then enclosing the whole lot in an acoustic enclosure.

8-ball

 

food for thought indeed.

 

i fail to see how most of the hat in a hdd is lost through the sides, someone explain?

 

This appears to have turned into a totally separate topic from how it started out... but if you look at the main casing of a drive, you'll find it's pretty much a big aluminium heatsink.
The top plate of a hdd is merely a cover in most cases and performs little to no heatsoak by comparison.


To those interested in how the Aquadrive can clamp tightly to the sides, I broke one of mine down into its component parts to show you.



The two thick steel plates on the right already have bituminous mat (like the top one of the sheets on the left) covering the undersides (or insides, if you will).
They slot into the guides in the blocks, the joint pipe is O-ring sealed and the end plates are slotted where the bolts go through.
All in all, there is enough free play during assembly to accomodate any standard 3.5in IDE drive I have ever come across.

I personally find the soundproofing good enough without even using either of the two pieces of self adhesive sound absorption material on the left of the pic.

 

Thanks for that Pug.