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Electronics CM HAF 932 Front panel rejuvenation

Discussion in 'Modding' started by Altyn10000, 20 Jun 2018.

  1. Altyn10000

    Altyn10000 New Member

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    First I start that I bought Cooler Master HAF 932 in 2008 and mine is from earliest revisions, so no paint inside and no additional USB 3.0 ports (however CM's solution add usb in 3.5 bay is ugly IMHO).

    At some moment I tried to find a replacement for HAF, but in time of RGB, glass and thick metal I did not find comparable a replacement. Therefore in 2017 I decided to fix a problem with absence of USB 3.0 ports and try to make it accurately. My approach is to replace pcb of the front panel mounting with IO ports. I start to ponder how to fit all connectors and I have to remove ieee 1394, actually it is not demanded.


    To make own pcb that will fit in original place with all holes authentic pcb have to be measured precisely. I used caliper and sketched all dimensions on the paper.
    Next step, is to design new pcb, I used cad programs, here on the picture example of work process.


    When one is planning such work he or she have to obtain all documents on parts and devices that are involved in project. In my case they are datasheets on usb, sata, idc and other connectors.


    Actually it was one the most onerous parts of the project, because companies like CM and others mainly use parts from almost noname suppliers and it is enormously hard to find info on them. I checked every blueprint manually and measured parts to find match. In my design I used usb from ebay and they have good quality also blueprints from the sellers matched pretty well with actual parts.

    If you want to design own boards with involvement of usb ports you should remember that usb's differential lines (which marked +- pos. neg.) have 90 Ohm impedance. Just for reference, I used board which is 1.524 mm FR4 substrate, so sometimes 90 Ohm lines have unreasonable dimensions, so in my design they are not 90 Ohms every where. However, it is not a debacle and stability do not suffer. On relatively short distances impedance can be way off from a standard value, nevertheless lines have to be deferentially routed. As you can see I saved e-sata, audio connector and led. Audio part has own gnd plane. Desoldering is a crucial process, original pcb uses ROHS solder, so it is very hard do desolder without right equipment and skills. However, it is possible to take all new parts, but i just did not find e-sata and phd 2.0 connectors. Therefore using transplantation was the only one possible way.

    After final checking of the design I ordered pcb on manufacture (if someone interested I can write what service I used.)

    Here on the picture a new pcb from both sides as you can see overall quality is higher than original CM's.


    Also I bought Usb 3.0 extender cord. I have to buy two of them 50cm obviously too short for HAF. Another part that I changed led indicators, original super bright blue led just bothered me. Therefore I bought 3mm red leds. The only moment that little ring on the leds edge prevents mounting in the original holder, but I solved it.


    You can file of sanding machine or something like this.
    Final measurement and placing.


    Every connector is one the right place and mounting holes too. Then I detached unused cables from the cord and closed a panel.


    In future plans I want to add USB 3.1 type C on the place of 1394 but I can not find any info about this connector

    [​IMG]

    There is no any info on digikey nor farnell nor any other sites. I've only found that Intel promulgated this connector (and forgot to upload datasheets on it:clap:) Options from ebay or Lianli obviously too short for HAF. I appreciate if someone give any info about usb C front connector. Also I hope that my experience inspire for technical mods of old cases but that you do not want to replace. Almost all cases can be modified in similar way just be sedulous.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 20 Jun 2018
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  2. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Lovely work. Welcome to BitTech. :D
    I gave up on usb 3 boards and opted for an extension cord. My eyes can't handle it, so I probably couldn't solder it either.
     
  3. spolsh

    spolsh Active Member

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    Nice work … it's annoying that good cases become out of date connector wise.
     
  4. Altyn10000

    Altyn10000 New Member

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    Cheapskate Thanks
    spolsh Yes that's true, however, good modding can fix this. Much worse that now there is almost no really worthy case below 200$

    In future plan I also want to add 2*180mm radiator on the top.
     
  5. Filmore Graves

    Filmore Graves New Member

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    Really nice work, found you on youtube and you told me you had more detail here btw. Do you happen to have another PCB handy or info on where you got this made along with the cad files you sent in to have it made to your measured specs?
     
  6. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    You might want to throw an @Altyn10000 at him and hope his email notifications are on.
    His last post was in 2019.
     
  7. Filmore Graves

    Filmore Graves New Member

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    I have started a conversation with him assuming that what you meant? If he has email alerts that will do the trick I hope if not welp I will figure something out myself. I have done some research on front IO I can get that wont break the bank that I could use or possibly modify to fit in place of the front IO.

    Something like this

    https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B014VTF6HW...olid=2GBDJQZNWLHRQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

    or even running some cables from the main board to the front and make myself my own front IO, need to looking into how to cut plastic so it looks nice, using something like these:

    https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B006PHY0GM...olid=2GBDJQZNWLHRQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
     
  8. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    You could also look into getting a replacement panel for a newer case and installing that. :thumb:
     

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