Case Mod - Complete (COMPLETED) "IKONiK" (1st Official Mod Of The Be Quiet Dark Base 900 Pro)

The Concept:
The plan is to break away from traditional aesthetics while tipping my hat to a generation of forward thinkers. I strive to create something that goes beyond “standard” ideas and instead pursue this project inspired by layout, location, and function. Frank Lloyd Wright’s mentor, Louis Sullivan famously stated that, “Form follows function”. This idea is expressed by Modernism's tendency to have the function of a project dictate much of the design ideas. I will attempt to look through the eyes of this perspective throughout the build.

IKONiK will be my interpretation of a sleek, modern and high tech PC. It will feature the latest hardware modded into one cohesive design. I have purchased a good deal of exotic materials and finishes that will help give it the modern design cues I am looking for.



The concept design for this build serves as an outline of what I want the build to look like. As the build progresses I will add some things, keep a lot from the design and change a few. This helps to assure that this build is up to my standards when its finished.








I will be using the new DARK Base Pro 900 from Be Quiet for this build. I am honored that they approached me to be the first person to mod this case. It has a lot of new features; with modularity being a big part of the design. The plan is to invert the motherboard and take advantage of the design features found throughout the case.



This build will primarily focus on modding the hardware as well as the case. My last build, “Dark Matter” was a scratch build that required hundreds of hours focused primarily on building the structure of the case. For this build I get to save that energy and focus it towards modding the case/hardware. As with all of my builds the main features tend to evolve. The build usually takes on a personality of its own during the process. I have set guidelines and a concept for this build but, it will have a lot more “freestyle” modding that I tend thrive in.





Be Quiet: http://www.bequiet.com/en

• Dark Power Pro 11 PSU (1,200 watt)
• 4 X Be Quiet PureWings 3 – 140mm fans and 2 X 120mm fans (These are the new ones that recently came out.)




EVGA: http://www.evga.com

• Motherboard: Z170 Classified K
• GPU: GTX 1070 SC
• Ram: 16gb Superclocked DDR4






OCZ:https://ocz.com/us/ssd/

• Vector 180 (480gb) SSD
• RD400 NVM M.2 PCIE SSD




Mnpctech: https://mnpctech.com/#/home

• Billet aluminum cable combs (3 X 24-pin & 7 X 8-pin)

You can buy your own set of billet aluminum cable combs here:

<a href="https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/#/category/497" rel="norewrite external">https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/#/category/497</a>




CableMod: https://cablemod.com
Fully Sleeved Modular Cables:
• B-series ModFlex modular cable set (Black







ModMyMods: https://modmymods.com
Alphacool: http://www.aquatuning.us

• Alphacool Eisblock XPX CPU block (silver)
• Alphacool 250mm tube reservoir
• Alphacool UT60 420mm radiator (special edition white)
• Alphacool Single GPX SLI connector
• Alphacool GTX 1070 GPU block
• Alphacool Eispump VP755 (version 2) x2 w/acetal blocks
• Alphacool brass (chrome) hardline tubing 13mm
• Alphacool bulkhead fittings
• Alphacool assorted adaptors including check valves and pressure release valves
• Alphacool Aurora reservoir RGB LED ring
• Alphacool Dual 45 degree rotatable fittings

 

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And so it begins:

Meet The Dark Base Pro:

The Dark Base Pro 900 case by Be Quiet has recently arrived at the shop. The case comes in black, silver or orange accents. I went with the silver Pro version. The Pro version comes with an upgraded PWM fan controller that can be controlled through your motherboard. It also has modular RGB LED strips that can easily be moved to multiple locations.

Another neat feature is the tempered glass side panel. Everything inside of the case is modular which allows you to move things to accommodate your specific needs. I will be flipping the motherboard 180 degrees for the IKONiK build. I took a few pictures right after unboxing it and the 1,200 watt Dark Power Pro 11 PSU.

The New Dark Base 900 Pro (silver edition)







Some great shots of the Be Quiet Dark Base Pro 900. These pics give you an appreciation for the work that went into this high end case. By Malik

 

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3D Printing: Fan Grill Logos

I wanted to get started on the, “IKONiK” and “EKWB” logos I designed a couple days ago. After the logos were finished on my 3D printer I went ahead with some light clean up and applied some sandable filler. These inserts will be used on the radiator grill and rear 140mm fan.

Next up to be 3D printed is the actual fan grill that these pieces will mount to. When the new PureWings 3 fans arrive I will post some mockups of them with the grills.






PSU Arrival: (Be Quiet 1,200 Dark Power Pro 11)

The PSU from Be Quiet recently arrived at the shop. I used the same PSU on my last build and I liked it so much that I requested it again for this build. I have wanted to do a few mods to a PSU for a while now and this design will work well for the IKONiK build. Be Quiet was nice enough to throw in some awesome swag. I shall wear this shirt proudly.



PSU Mod Ideas:

The plan is to cut a window in the side of the PSU so that I can mount two-way security acrylic. This will allow people to see inside the PSU when its on but, not when its off. I will need to add a few LEDs inside the PSU for this. When the backlights are off the lpanel will look like a mirror. This is the same concept used for security in places like Vegas's Casinos.




Sleeved Cables Arrival: CableMod B-Series (black)

As with most PSU manufacturers, Be Quiet uses special modular connectors for the cables being plugged into the PSU. I have had a hard time finding pre-sleeved solutions that are specifically designed for this PSU until I came across CableMod. They sell all kinds of pre-made and custom cables solutions for a large selection of PSUs including Be Quiet. I loved the look of the cables immediately and I am very happy to have them as a sponsor of the IKONiK build.

 

Flipping The Motherboard:

Being the type of person I am I couldn't help but, flip the motherboard tray on the Dark Base 900 Pro. Theres quite a few advantages to doing this. It fits in with my anticipated custom loop and also locates the plugs where I want them. Ive heard that the instructions were somewhat difficult to follow when it comes to flipping the motherboard tray.

For this reason I decided to see how hard it would be to do it without the instructions. Surprisingly it was pretty easy to accomplish. The only thing I didn't like was some of the bolts used in the case. You need about 3 different sized phillips screw drivers to remove the bolts without stripping them. Other than that I found it to be very intuitive. The swap just made sense; which I really like.




Scratch Built Reservoir Design:

I've been playing around with different designs for a scratch built reservoir. I will build the reservoir using basic tools like a scroll saw, files and sandpaper. Im attempting to do it this way to show aspiring case modders what can be done if your willing to dedicate the time towards it.

I tried multiple ideas and I've finally determined the shape, custom mount and size that I will use for it. The only part I still need to determine is exactly where I will put the inlet, fill port and outlet. The plan is to run the inlet from the 420mm radiator that will be mounted next to it and the outlet will go directly to the pump below it. Typically I run my res directly to the pump as it helps assure that the pump doesn't run dry.




Hard Drive Rack Mount Cover:

After reading some reviews on the new Dark Base Pro 900 I found that there were very few dislikes for the chassis. One of the dislikes was that there was no optional cover for the hard drive rack if you chose not to use it. This is an easily solved problem and I'm glad that they didn't make one. I say this because I want to make a passthrough where the cover would go. Making my own will allow me to customize it to fit my needs.



As you can see in the picture above the cover will be made from stainless steel and it'll have a bend towards one end in order to wrap around the edge. Im doing it this way to help re-assert the design cues for the build. Modern designs use lots if straight clean lines. This cover will have just that. I also took some time to polish the stainless steel sheet to see how it'll look and I love it. The collage shows what it looks like stock (upper right side photo) & with the new cover (bottom & top left.)






Modder Tip: Polishing Stainless Steel

Polishing stainless steel can be tricky but, if you know the right process its not so bad. All stainless steel has striations or grain. Its usually either vertically or horizontally. Make sure you only go with the grain when polishing as it'll make it look a lot better. Start by using a soft paper towel or 100% cotton towel and put dawn dish soap on it. Then put just enough water on the towel to make it damp. Wipe down the stainless, making sure to go with the grain.

Once you done the entire surface, take a dry towel and wipe of any water or soap. Use a new towel a put a very small amount of mineral oil or baby oil on it. Wipe down the stainless again and your in business. The picture shows the reflection after I polished my stainless steel sheet. Its so good that I could see my case from across the shop.

 

PSU Shroud & Partial Pump Cover:

I made a template using hard stock because I knew that I would be changing the design a few times. Usually I'll use foam board or something more rigid but, this gave me a lot more flexibility to make changes very quickly. Once I had it perfected I transferred the design over to sheet metal. My air cutter made quick work of all the detail and I got an opportunity to test out my new angle grinder which works fantastic.

Once I had the shape cut out I bent the metal 90 degrees to wrap around the PSU. I decided to do a more gradual curve instead of a very tight one. It looks great. I also didn't use a metal brake to bend the sheet metal. I wanted to show what could be done using the most basic of tools. I also took the opportunity to see where the passthrough would be if I ran the pump through here.






3D printed 140mm Fan Grill:

This fan grill can be seen in the concept design in the first post of the build log. It will have a 3D printed IKONiK logo that will go on top of this piece. The IKONiK lettering is previously shown. Im almost done with sanding the filler primer. Once finished I want to try and paint the main grill in a either grey or black with the lettering in a sterling silver. I will update once I start painting these pieces and mock them up.

 

Honestly, the white looks amazing. Also, lucky you have that right there on the premises to play with-oh, the parts I could make if i knew what I was doing...

 

Which white part are you referring to and I'm guessing your talking about the 3D printer. I appreciate the comments and checking out the log.

 

Starting Work On The Custom Reservoir:

I have determined the shape and design but, I needed to figure out the actual size that the reservoir will be. I ended up going with about an inch and a half thick. As with all my acrylic stuff I cut out I make templates first and then use my scroll saw to cut out the pattern.



I've got the majority of the mount finished and about a half of the reservoir cut out. Once I have all the pieces I will glue them all together, drill and tap the threads for the water cooling fittings.




Painting 140mm 3D Printed Fan Grill & IKONiK Lettering:

Now that I've had time to finish sanding and priming the grill and lettering I have started doing some test painting. I will start out with a black and sterling silver combination. This will be my first time working with sterling silver paint so I hope it lives up to my expectations. The first few layers went down well on the main grill.

When the rest of my fans arrive from Be Quiet I will test mount everything. Im also going to try a new 2–tone paint job on some of the fans so it'll be neat to see what they look like together.








New Sponsor: EVGA

I am very happy to announce that EVGA has decided to sponsor the IKONiK case mod with all kinds of sweet hardware. I will be using an EVGA motherboard, GPU and DDR4. I will update the list with the exact parts that will be used. Ive been a big fan of EVGA for quite sometime and I'm excited for the new hardware to arrive. I will also update and take pictures once the new gear arrives at the shop.

 

Update: 3D Printed 140mm Fan Grill & Lettering

I was finally able to mockup the 3D fan grill and IKONiK lettering. This was a prototype I did to test colors and scaling. Everything came out great and it'll look much better when the letters are actually correctly spaced/mounted.




3D Printed & Stainless Steel Cover For The Breakout Box:

The Dark Base Pro 900 comes with a breakout box mounted on the back side of the motherboard tray. It has eight fan connectors and two LED strip connectors. The LED strips are controlled via a switch in the front of the case to change the color of the RGB LED strips.

The fans can be controlled via the motherboard and software by connecting your mobo to the breakout box. I personally love this feature as it is super convenient. I also want to see if you can control your pump with the pulse width modulation output. It would be an ideal set up if I could control radiator fans and my pump via the breakout box Be Quiet has included.

Even though the breakout box really isn't seen due to it being mounted on the backside of the motherboard tray; I still want to make it look awesome. I came up with the design for a cover by freehand sketching ideas on a notepad and translating it into a CAD design. Once I felt like I had a winner I used hard stock to make a template to scale.

The main cover piece is made out of ABS and the inner piece will be made out of 1 1/2 mm thick stainless steel stock. The process from 3D print to painted piece was exceptionally long on this piece due to the high quality result I was after. The process is very similar to the one I detailed earlier in the log. The main difference is that I used dissolvable support material when printing this piece and the clean up/paint prep process was more intense. More than likely I will cut some vinyl to let me know where the inputs and outputs for the breakout box are. This will make things easier down the road when swapping cables around. Due to the bolts going through the PCB I will use nylon washers for the 10mm standoffs.






Update: Scratch Built Reservoir & Mount

I now have all the pieces for the reservoir cut, sanded and filed. I will polish the pieces after I have the input, output and fill ports threaded. I cant decide if I should put the ports on the side or top of the reservoir. Ive also started working my way towards finer grit sandpaper for the edges.

 

Optical Drive Bay Removal:

One of my favorite parts about this case is the modularity. It allows you to move, change or remove any of the pieces you want. They all have removable bolts versus pop rivets found on most cases. It only took about 10 minutes or less to remove the optical drive bays. Im sure this time would have been more like 5 minutes but I tend to look at the design of things when I take them apart. The two front bay covers come off in a matter of seconds and the 3rd fan is easily bolted into place. Be Quiet did a good job of anticipating wiring routes which allows you to cleanly wire the fans.

Stock Fan Arrangement & Optical Bays Mounted:


3rd Fan Added & Optical Bays Removed:



Custom Vinyl Decals For 140mm PureWings 3 Fans:

I decided it was time to try out a design to replace the decals on the front 3–140mm PureWings fans. This isn't something that makes a huge statement but, its one of those small details that will bring everything together in the end. The plan is to mount a 420mm radiator on the inside and I also have some neat ideas for painting these fans that I will detail later on.

I downloaded the font used for the IKONiK logo onto my laptop so that I could generate a cut file for my vinyl cutter. In order to determine the size needed I used my digital calipers to measure the space available. I could have just removed the stock decals and placed the IKONiK decal but, it doesn't look as good as it would if I re-cut a new black, blank circle. It adds some time and steps to the process but, its worth it in my opinion.

Once I had everything cut I added the white IKONiK letters to the black circles and prepped the fans for installation. Proper placement for the vinyl is always the trickiest part. It requires you to take lots of measurements so that each decal is centered and laid out correctly.

 

Rear Addition: (IO/PCI-e Cover)

Ive been wanting to make some sort of cover for the back of a build for quite sometime now. This is one of those ideas thats been floating around my head for quite sometime now. I wanted something that looks stylish while still serving a purpose.

A combination of aluminum and acrylic will be used to get the shape and depth I'm looking for. The design I put together in sketchup, did just that. The cover allows air circulation through the rear fans and organizes all the ugly wiring. An LED strip has also been added which allows you to see where all the plug ins are on the back of the case.

Ive dry fit the rough cut and test painted pieces. I will make sure to update the build log as I start to build the bottom section






Be Quiet Fan Arrival: (The 1st Set Of Silent Wings 3 in The U.S.)

The new fans from Be Quiet arrived at the shop today. This is the first set of the new Silent Wings 3 fans in the United States. I have received 4 of the 140mm PWM versions and 2 of the 120mm standard versions. Below I've taken a few pictures showing their arrival through to the unboxing.

The new fans have a lot of innovative features that I've never seen before. They come with different mounting options that make every fit; a perfect fit. They come with rubberized mounts or mounts that use a push pin to lock them in. The nice part about the push pins is that there is no need for bolts. Installation is quick and painless. These options are perfect for using them on a radiator, heatsink or case mounting. I will be using some in the case and others for radiators.

I also want to thank Be Quiet for sending me the latest gear they have to offer.

Silent Wings 3 Fans Arrival:



Unboxing The New Fans:



SilentWings 3 In The Wild: (120 & 140mm versions)

 

Aluminum Side Piece:

There is piece that is used to mount the power supply inside the case. I wanted to cut a piece of aluminum that it is thick enough to make it even with the PSU shroud. It will also help to give it a much more polished look once its cleaned up. I used a scrap piece of aluminum because you wont notice a difference after I clean the piece up.

I also inset the bolt heads a little bit which helps to locate the bolts almost exactly where they would be before the plate addition. I will update once I have time to do the finish work on the aluminum. Below I've added pictures of what it looked like before the installation and after so you can easily reference the differences.






Update: PSU Shroud (Test Painting)

I got tired of looking at the un-painted PSU shroud and I really wanted to get an idea of what it would look like painted black. I have some left over from the Dark Matter build so I thought, “why not?” I quickly prepped it with a sanding sponge and then I used Rustoleum 2X. The nice part about this paint is the primer and paint being in one can. It really makes test painting rather painless to do.

After remounting the PSU shroud and the PSU access panel I was really happy with how it looks. Theres a lot more pieces that go together to make up the full PSU shroud but, these are the main ones.

 

Making Side Panel Templates To Scale:

I translated the CAD design to hard stock for the side panel pieces that will go on the tempered glass panels. Its pretty easy to do as its literally transferring each measurement over. I've decided to use thin steel stock to make all of these pieces. It'll take longer than making it out of acrylic but, I think it'll fit the design better in metal.

To adhere them I will more than likely use heavy duty transfer tape thats used typically for adding acrylic side panels. That way if I ever have to remove them; I can without messing up the tempered glass. I also remembered that there are two holes in the tempered glass which are used to mount it to the case. I will take advantage of these to help hold the back pieces in place. The picture below are of the templates after I used them to cut the pieces. I will update the logos once I make more progress on them.




Update: Side Panel Pieces

I decided to use my air cutter to cut the metal pieces for the side panel. Im trying out a new design technique for these pieces so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. The panels are made up of two solid back pieces and layered top pieces that have 1–4mm spaces between each piece. The varied 1–4mm gaps will look really neat once everything is painted and mounted. Here's the rough cut pieces before filing and sanding.




Update: Rear IO/PCIe Cover (Bottom Pieces)

The bottom two pieces for the rear IO/PCIe cover were made using templates made out of hard stock. I then transferred the templates to metal sheet stock and cut them out using my air cutter. After the general shape was cut out, it was time to use my bench grinder to fine tune the cuts. Once I had that finished I run them through a process of filing and then sanding the edges to make them exact. Then, onward to test painting and mock-ups. As you can see I was able to mockup the 4 pieces I have finished. There will be a few more pieces that I still need to build and mount.






Modder Tip: Bending Metal

They need a 45° angle at a specific point which is pretty easy to do without a bending brake. I run a line along the edge I want to bend and then use a counter top to bend it along. The bend edge will match the edge your bending it against. If your countertop edge is a gradual bend; your metal piece will have a gradual bend. I needed a tight bend so I used the edge on my workbench.

You'll want to clamp the top edge so that it stays flat against the top of the work bench. I usually use a piece of steel with a clamp on each side and then use another flat piece of steel to push against the other edge. This helps assure that you have even pressure along the entire piece you are bending. There are lots of tutorials online that show step by step on how to do this.

 

Status Update: Envious Mods HQ

I just wanted to update you all as I will have more updates on the build log in the next couple days. I have just finished moving into a rental while I build the new Envious Mods HQ. It will have a machine shop, final assembly room, walk in paint booth and a rather large apartment adjacent to it. I have been planning this over the last year or two and it is the next big step for Envious Mods. The machine shop and paint booth building was already on the land purchased. It just needs some TLC, new electrical and some shelves/stands for my heavy equipment. I am currently setting up my daily workspace and reconnecting Internet service.

This is a huge commitment for Envious Mods but, with all the growth of Envious Mods over the last yr; I would be stupid to not invest in its future. As many of you know I do almost daily updates and I felt it was only fair to let you know what's going on. In the next couple days I will resume the detailed build log as well as share a few surprises I have in store. Thanks again to all my faithful fellow modders and forum followers.

 

Back Side of The Motherboard Tray Design: (Rear Shroud)

I wanted to come up with something neat for the back side of the motherboard tray. It really won't be seen much and a good portion of it has a bolt on cover. I still want to include it in the log and I'll more than likely include it in the final pics. My favorite idea is to make a partial grill that is diagonal along the lower right hand corner. I will probably use some aluminum strips I have left over from a previous build. They will need to be cut in half, sanded, filed before the finish work can be done. With the last grill I made from scratch; I found that it looked best if I designed a 3D printable mount for the grill slats. More than likely I will integrate them into the cover like the Sketchup design shows.

Rear Shroud: CAD Design & Template

I finalized the design for the back side of the motherboard tray and cable shroud. I moved forward and made a quick Sketchup design of these new pieces in order to better visualize it. Once I had it all laid out in decided to make a template to scale. I made a couple minor changes to the design. The main change was to break the back panel into 2 pieces. This will make installation much easier and it'll also make working on the computer easier. I added a small piece that overlaps where the two panels meet up which is primarily aesthetic. Adding the overlap will give it a more polished look.

CAD Design Ideas:






CAD Design Translated Into A Template:

 

Looking really good mate. Looking forward to seeing more of the custom reservoir build.

Will you be illuminating the front fans somehow?

 

Yes, there will be some sort of illumination on the front fan section. The plan as of now is to build a custom acrylic piece that goes around the fans and will be illuminated. I will have some more updates on the custom reservoir soon as well. Thanks again for checking out the build log.

 

PSU Shroud Side Pieces:

I started putting together ideas for the side of the PSU shroud. I want to carry over the design cues from the tempered glass side panel. This will help it look like a cohesive design. These pieces will be cut out of sheet metal and layered to give the piece more depth. So far I've put together the basic design and transferred it into a template. I still need to break up the template into multiple pieces so that they can be cut. As you can see in the picture below I used the Sketchup design but, built off of it to give it a better look.




Front Fan Surround Design:

After playing around with different ideas for the front piece that will go around the 3 X 140mm fans I decided to integrate the design of the fan inlets. These are custom designed for Be Quiet's Silent Wings 3 fans that just came out. They have a distinctive shape that helps with airflow and the pattern the air creates on its way into the radiator. I am using the high speed PWM versions of these fans. The high speed version is specifically designed with a higher static pressure rating for top of the line radiators. The main surround will be made out of 15mm thick lexan and I will add a top piece made out of sheet metal. Once the lexan is backlit it will make the fan and edges of the lexan glow. I have the basic surround template finished for the lexan and I will update the logos once the template for the sheet metal is finished.




Vinyl & Paint Technique Testing: Texture & Embossing

I've been wanting to test out some ideas I've been tossing around when it comes to adding texture to paint and vinyl. I started out using spray paint to try and add a texture to a painted surface. I used a sanded piece of thin metal rod and taped it to the front of the spray paint can. I filed the tip of the rod so it would taper to a point and then positioned its just below nozzle height. Once sprayed it changes the natural flow of paint causing a textured effect.

The embossed vinyl was made by first designing and cutting a vinyl pattern. Once that pattern was laid down on an acrylic surface I grabbed another sheet of vinyl and laid it over the placed pattern. Using a hair dryer I slowly heated the top layer of vinyl to help it sink into all the nooks and crannies. Using my finger I helped coax some of it into the more detailed sections of the pattern. I've never seen this technique done and it really gives a new aspect to uses for vinyl. Ideas like this is what I thrive to discover and I enjoy being the first to implement it into case modding. That way more people can try these ideas and take them to the next level.

Embossed Vinyl Technique:


Textured Paint Technique: (With Embossed Vinyl Under)

 

Just a thought but when I look at the image of the front fans (and your fan shroud) the first thing I see is the bar going across the top fan - kinda doesn't look right to my eye as it breaks up the shroud design and aesthetic. I just seem to be constantly drawn to the cross bar but this may be just me.

Is it possible to remove this bar and retain case integrity?

 

I was going to wait to until I finished the design for the top plate for the surround before I posted about its removal. I thought long and hard about wether I should make it into a design or cut it out. Rigidity shouldn't be an issue and there's always ways around it if it was. The lexan I'm using is pretty thick and it's will carry the distinctive inlet shape from the fan. If it comes out half as good as I imagine it'll really be a neat feature and I wouldn't want to break up that beauty with a bar. It's not just you and thanks for the input as it is always welcomed. I appreciate you checking out the build log also!