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Scratch Build – Complete "COSK" - Journeymans Desk PC

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Nexaner7, 4 Feb 2021.

  1. Nexaner7

    Nexaner7 What's a Dremel?

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    Yes, I tested everything beforehand and also made sure that I won't be able to pull any of the cables out of their connection.
    I probably haven't thought about acessing those parts as I transitioned from removable joints to gluing the whole thing afterwards :duh:

    But if there is any problem I should be able to drill a hole next to the drawer. This way I could remove the drawer and work on the electronics, with the hole being covered when the drawer is installed.
     
  2. Nexaner7

    Nexaner7 What's a Dremel?

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    Woodworking

    Let's get this part out of the way first.

    There were only a few things left to do.

    [​IMG]
    I put on the flap and aligned it. I also added two little pieces of wood which keep it flush with the front when closed.


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    Getting the drawers to slide properly wasn't as easy. The guides use only the friction between the wooden parts to hold the drawer in place. It took quite a lot of sanding till I got them just right. After that I temporarily glued down the fronts, drilled some guiding holes and secured them using screw.


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    Lastly, I put in the middle drawer. I used some printed spacers to clear the overhang from the drawer fronts and then screwed on a set of full extensions. The front was attached using shaped springs and glue.


    PC building (finally :))

    Because I tested the layout beforehand, I was confident that everything would fit and started as soon as I had my PC-box at home.


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    The res is secured using the underlying fans and long M4 screws + standoffs. This way the fans are able to push the air into the PC-box through the gap between res and floor.
    I had to raise the fan on the left slightly, so the sleeved cables from the pump would fit through.


    [​IMG]
    The Phanteks Neon strips had to be de-pinned, so their connectors would fit through the holes. Then I was able to press them in, re-pin them on the back and they were done.


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    My temporary PC had collected a bit more dust than I had anticipated, so I gave the parts a good clean. I'm still surprised that my zip-tied cooler held up this long :oops:


    [​IMG]
    The PSU sits raised, because the cutout interfered with the groove for the floor piece.
    The radiator required some force to fit, because there are some rivets on either end which I hadn't accounted for. Luckily, wood makes it pretty easy to overcome these little mistakes.


    [​IMG]
    The printed bracket secures the DisplayPort extension nicely and the cable length is just right to make it under the PSU, without any extra slack. Not that I had big of a choice, because there is a very limited selection of DP 1.4 extension.
    The right angle also minimizes the length needed. Without it, the beast of an GPU probably wouldn't fit.


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Water-cooling both CPU and GPU was planned from the beginning, but I wonder if I could get away with an air-cooled card in this system. I guess the airflow in there is pretty good, but additional fans may add too much turbulence.
    Still, in this case the GPU block is necessary, because it further reduces the length of the card.
    I should also pay more attention when installing the CPU block next time...someone maybe forgot to remove a certain sticker. o_O


    [​IMG]
    Is there anybody else that uses cling wrap to keep their thermal pads fresh and in-place?


    [​IMG]
    While milling, I made a few mistakes, so these cutouts are too deep. This left me with a brim of only 2 mm thickness. To reinforce these parts, I printed these brims and glued them in.




    [​IMG]
    Due to time concerns, I ended up ordering the cables and it seems like that was the right move. I did add some aluminum cable combs on the PSU side however, so there is at least some custom work in there.


    [​IMG]
    At some point I would really like to do these perfectly guided cables on the back as well, but for now tugging them on the underside has to do the job. I used some screw-in sleeves to attach Velcro straps to the underside.


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    I only vaguely thought about the way I would mount the GPU. When the time came, the easiest solution I could think of, was mounting it directly to the water-block.
    The backplate was used for marking the holes, I added a 2.5 mm sheet of wood as spacer and was able to secure the card with five 25 mm long M2.5 screws. Kinda sketchy, but works flawlessly.
    Test boot also successfully completed.


    [​IMG]
    It gets messy quickly when I'm working, but after a some cleaning, I'm ready to watercool my new PC.
     
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  3. Nexaner7

    Nexaner7 What's a Dremel?

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    Water cooling

    [​IMG]
    The fitting selection here seems to be somewhat limited, so I wasn't able to match them perfectly. That's why the radiator sits deeper and the GPU got an additional spacer. With these small changes, I was able to bring all fittings to approximately the same height.


    [​IMG]
    Because I went for only-fittings, the tubing was quickly done and I had time for redoing the cable management. I added my chroma hub and routed all the wires.


    [​IMG]
    Then it was time for the first loop test. I don't have EK's pressure tester, so I resorted to kitchen roll. Testing the system revealed no leaks, but my little oversight.


    [​IMG]
    After flushing and disassembling the loop, removing the sticker and rebuilding these parts, it was time for the orange coolant. I was relieved after seeing it filled, because bottled it looked more like a reflective neon orange.


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    A few last things were: - a molex connector for the PWR button
    - some guides for the exhaust
    - running the USB extensions
    - milling stands for the glass
     
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  4. Nexaner7

    Nexaner7 What's a Dremel?

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    The finished PC


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Nexaner7

    Nexaner7 What's a Dremel?

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  6. dan297

    dan297 Modder

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    It came out great. :thumb:
    Unfortunately, the desk will be rather useless, because it would be a bloody shame to put anything on top of it, blocking the view to this magnificent build...:lol:
     
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  7. Nexaner7

    Nexaner7 What's a Dremel?

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    Thanks a lot. :blush:
    Yeah, I will probably have to build another desk, for monitor and peripherals. Seems like the only logical thing to do.:grin:
     
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  8. alain-s

    alain-s Minimodder

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    the progress you undergo with each desk is amazing. Every time you put the bar higher and higher for your self. I really dig the top of the desk the color and type of wood is spot on. And the option to remove the whole pc for maintenance or change hardware is well thought off. The only thing that I could think of that would improve it is a monitor arm so the desk keeps its clean look.
    On to the next build :)
     
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  9. Brzydal

    Brzydal What's a Dremel?

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    Hey, i couldn't find dimensions of this desk, would you mind sharing it? What is the height of the pc compartment, i'm planning to build my own in-desk pc and i was wondering how much height do i need to reserve for the pc. I was thinking about 25cm but then it seems like the desk will be too thick.
     
  10. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    You have to give him an @Nexaner7 , and hope his e-mail notifications are turned on.
    Thanks for the necro-bump, though. I completely missed this amazing finale.
    The desk is outstanding. Alain pretty much sums up my opinion of it. Give us another build. :D
     
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  11. Nexaner7

    Nexaner7 What's a Dremel?

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    Hey, I am sorry that I took so long to reply. The desk is 856 mm in depth, 766 mm in height (166 mm without legs) and 1770 mm in width. The PC-box itself is 130 mm in height, with 30 mm for cablemanagement, 14 mm wood and the other 86 mm for the components. The 90 degree fittings on the raised reservoir are the highest point with I would say 5 mm to the glass.
     
  12. kim

    kim hardware addict

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    Excellent work :thumb:, very nice desk :clap:
     

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