What's the best method to cut acrylic, is it with a Dremel and the right cutting bit or would it be better to do it with a band saw, I'm seriously thinking of buying a cheap one lol.
It depends on a few things. 1. Thickness: if its thin (like really thin) then you can just use the score and snap method but if its thicker, like 1/8 inch at least, then some sort of saw must be used. 2. Type: If its cast acrylic, you're good to go with just about any method. If its extruded, good luck keeping it from melting. 3. Straight or curved: Obvious really. Overall. If I were you, I'd get the bandsaw. Not only will it cut acrylic pretty nicely, you can also cut metal and wood on it which will be very helpful for future mods and such. A worthwhile investment definitely. First and foremost, good luck with your project.
Thanks for the advice greensabbath I'm not to sure if the acrylic I bought is cast or extruded its AC Ryan AcrylPanel 5mm 480x480mm - UV Green anyone know what type this is?
if you have the money to spend the second one down looks the business!!!! http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Bandsaws
You know I would buy a band saw without the blink of a eye if I had somewhere to put the damn thing, I could put it in my shed no problem but there like 1.5m tall. I would prefer a table one.
how about this............http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=16176&MAN=Draper-190mm-Two-Wheel-Bandsaw-240v or http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101403&ts=67125&id=56797 second one doesnt sound as good as the first! they are bothe cheap though and will probably suit your needs!
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...subcat=Tile+&+Cut+Off+Saws&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes My weapon of choice... It only works for straight lines, but you can cut up a full size sheet without worrying about saw-arm clearance issues.
A masonry saw for cutting acrylic? Interesting. What blade do you use? @culley: Either of those small bandsaws that x06jsp suggested would work although I agree the top one looks better. That other bandsaw he suggested is a friggen beast... I like it.
Wow, i feel dumb, I just realized that's a bench bandsaw too. On second thought culley, i'd recommend that one . Its ones like this that are rediculous: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=199-9110&PMPXNO=1614232&PARTPG=INLMK3 That other one has a nice amount of hp too.
You know I think this might be better for for what I need and its quite compact. http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Scroll Saws EDIT: I found out what I will buy to cut my acrylic It cost's about £240 and I can use it for a range of things.
I totally forgot to mention that. Very useful tool. I have a really simple one that i've had for 8 years or something and I love it, Good Choice.
I use the diamond blade that came with it. It works with everything BUT lexan. Older, worn out blades cut even cleaner. I'm going to try that plastics shop you mentioned in the other thread. Awesome prices!
Thats really interesting, I never thought it would work. Could you possibly take a close up picture of the edge of one of your cuts? I just have to see it to believe it. I'm making an order to Delvies too as we speak.
Wetsaw cuts... Forgive me! I have no way to optimize this pic on this computer... The first edge is 1/4" polyprophelyne with a new diamond blade. The second is 1/2" acrylic with a broke-in (I've tiled about 7 houses with this blade) 10" diamond blade. The red is a 'factory' dry cut. The scan really doesn't show how rough the red is in comparison. Keep in mind all the plastic I've used up to this point was used, so I have no idea how the paper masking on new plastic will react to this technique... I'm a big fan of your work -looking forward to seeing your new project come to life!
Thanks a lot for posting. The second piece with the used blade is impressively smooth. Do you think its the blade itself or the water combined (if you use the water too) that makes it so smooth? Normally i just use a really good blade on table saw but it can still look like the crappy factory edge sometimes.
I wouldn't try this without the water on! The blade used on the middle cut is very smooth and has almost no grit on the edges. I'm amazed it still cuts tile. I think the reason it cut so well is because it was done on a sliding table-type saw that holds the work very steady... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...subcat=Tile+&+Cut+Off+Saws&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes ...one of these. Not exacty standard equipment... It's also limited to an 18" cut. I may sacrifice the blade on my little saw by hacking a concrete block up. That should smooth the edges on it a bit!
i feel like a jigsaw would work in the place of a band saw as well. those can be a lot easier to work with and the size of the piece will never be an issue.
