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Darkness - DIY SFF case for a microATX HTPC - power problems (updated 1/24)

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by BlackDiamond, 5 Oct 2004.

  1. SeanMod

    SeanMod New Member

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    nice work man keep it up. :thumb:
    btw thats some tight action with the pump later on. really wonne see how you gonne get it in there.

    keep on modding


    --------------if something is wrong blame my teacher------------
     
  2. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    I just got the pump but damn UPS didn't deliver the rad - it isn't the first time that they are late...

    I'll post pictures of the pump soon but in the meantime it seems like I can trim off some of the pump's exterior and make it even smaller.

    I have been asking questions on a few sites and from what it seems most people agree that DIY acrylic bay reserviors leak sooner or later and the only kind of custom made reserviors that are OK are made of PVC pipe.
    I wanted to measure the interior of the case with the rad in order to determine if I can fit one next to the intake fan but alas - no rad :wallbash: so the measurements will have to wait.
     
  3. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    Got the waterblock today - but no rad yet. I am getting pissed :grr:
     
  4. Yo-DUH_87

    Yo-DUH_87 Who you calling tiny?

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    Won't work unless you have Windows Media Center Edition installed, and will control only that plus some very limited control of windows itself. Not something I'd reccomend unless you are taking the mce plunge.

    Nice work bty :thumb:
     
  5. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    I am considering the MCE path - I have a copy of it from work (M$ partner) and I may have different hardware for this system soon so there is a chance that I'll install MCE.

    I have just got news on the rad - new delivery date Jan 5. I can't wait...
     
  6. Firehed

    Firehed Why not? I own a domain to match.

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    I'd say you're better off picking up an ATI remote wonder. Really nice units and as they're RF based you don't even need to be in the same room to use them (I've successfuly used my RW2 from the basement on a second-floor PC!).

    Really nice work so far, great use of resources and definately different. I love the compact-ness!
     
  7. Flymo

    Flymo New Member

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    very nice mod.
    As far as watercooling..... forget the res.

    Just use a T piece connector and put a bung in it - you just use this to fill it.
    And before anyone says that non-res watercool systems arent as efficient... please read up on the subject first.

    A system with a reservoir will APPEAR to be more efficient (ie cooler water/cpu temps) BUT only for a while. This ONLY happens until the water has heated up to its 'operating' temp. This just takes longer with a res system because of the larger volume of water. The operating temp of a closed loop system will be EXACTLY the same as a system with a res when used on the same PC (with identical conditions of course). The time taken for the water to heat will only be a few minutes at most.


    Flymo
     
  8. putiikki

    putiikki New Member

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    I recommend Ati Remote Wonder too. I have RW1 and it's very good remote control. You can dowload lots of plug-ins for it to control different softwares. And I believe that RW2 is more better than mine old version.
     
  9. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    Answers/Responses:

    1. The main reason for using a res is because this is my first W/C system and I am under the impression that a system with a res is easier to fill/bleed - which is important for a W/C n00b like myself.
    2. No go with MCE - doesn't support the ATI TV wonder. But BeyondTV does...
    3. Need to check the RW path.

    Water cooling starts - yeah!

    Project progress:
    -----------------

    The Intake fan will be changed to a 120mm fan to fit the rad. So I resized the intake hole:

    [​IMG]

    The front of the chassis broke and now I need to find a way to fix it (notice the left bottom part of the front panel).
    The rad and fan are going to be here:

    [​IMG]

    This is the rough placement of the main watercooling parts:

    [​IMG]

    Here is the pump that I am using the Eheim Compat 600. It is a submerged pump that I am modding into an inline.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The pump cover is going to be modified into an inline one. The openning in the bottom will be sealed and a barb will be added instead of where the slider is.

    [​IMG]

    I got a new switch and soldered the tails to it:

    [​IMG]

    Next steps:

    Install barb on pump and seal bottom.
    Weld the broken corner of the chassis - need to find someone to do it for me.
    Build reservoir (or put a T in there still not sure).
    Purchase additional parts.
     
  10. Tech-iT

    Tech-iT New Member

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    That pump was made to be submerged. Forcing it to run inline might affect the motors longevity.
     
  11. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    In europe it is a more popular pump than in the USA and there is a coversion kit available there too.
     
  12. ouija

    ouija Trust me, I am doctor!

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    Try one of These

    Connects to Serial or USB and you can use any remote you like :rock:
     
  13. ¿þŘΩĐĮĢΫ?

    ¿þŘΩĐĮĢΫ? New Member

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    i want to see how this Project goes, consider me *subscribed*, i really want to see that pump change over from a submerged pump into an inline, that will be very interesting indeed.
     
  14. bjones247

    bjones247 New Member

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    Agreed, very interesting. I'm thinking about building a low-profile HTPC and I like your ideas. Subscribed. :thumb:
     
  15. Kumo

    Kumo New Member

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    In my log you can see that pump already transformed with the available kit from aqua-computer, the compacttube. That performs very well with the kit, but the available conectors are maybe smaller than desired.
     
  16. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    Answers/Responses:
    ------------------

    1. I have done some research on the IR receiver/remote issue. If I go with the BeyondTV HTPC software I might just go with the firefly remote. Still have to sit on it, besides it's not that urgent.
    2. The compacttube doesn't come with 1/2" barbs.
    A question for you Kumo, what about the back of the pump - the hole where the impeler ends - do I have to seal that too?


    Project progress:
    -----------------

    I installed the power switch and placed most of the parts in place, just to see how everything fits.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    From this test fitting I have realized that there is no way I can use a res - there is hardly enough room for the bare minimum tubing so the additional tubing for a res is out of the question.
    Even as it is there are a few spots where the tubing is going to barely fit - the tube going into the rad hardly clears the RAM and IDE cables.

    [​IMG]

    I am considering ordering a small section of the tygon superflex, maybe that will help me with bending the tubing to clear some of the tight spots.
     
  17. Kumo

    Kumo New Member

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    Hi.

    The barbs that i use are 3/8" (i think 6,5mm ID) and i enlarged them a little with a drill bit.
    You don`t have to seal it because its sealed from factory. i haven`t had any leakage since i instaled the compacttube and run the pump. The first mod i used it, the pump was submerged and now i use it In-line, without problems.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    The most problem are the feet (useless with the compacttube). If you use the availabel kit from aquacomputer (similar to the aquatube reservoir plate) you don´t need them, in other case, invent something like i did.
     
  18. Kumo

    Kumo New Member

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    Post error. (any moderator delete it)
     
  19. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    Ordered the missing parts - they should be here this weekend. The water cooling system should be up and running by next week!

    The rest of the project will have to wait. It's a shame that it's too cold to paint...it is 3F outside...
     
  20. BlackDiamond

    BlackDiamond New Member

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    Project progress:
    -----------------

    I installed the barb in the pump cover and sealed it with JB weld and Plumbers goop.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the system before the leak test.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see the pump ended up behind the radiator instead of underneath the PSU. The tubing is too thick to go between the cards and the DVD, so I had to relocate the pump.

    Once the leak test is done I will flush the system and refill it with water+antifreeze.

    BTW this pump is really quiet, once the air was out of the system it was only a low pitch hum. This is much better than the noise from a 60mm fan...

    Sources for parts:
    ==================

    Pump - superfishstore.com (it's meant for fish tanks, not watercooling).
    Tubing, plastic clamps, t-line, fillport and barbs - cooltechnica.com
    Power button, relay card for the pump - xoxide.com
    Radiator - directron.com
    Worm drive clamps - Pep Boys
    JB Weld, Plumbers goop - Home Depot
     

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