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Cooling De-lidded, wondering about TIM

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by Neogumbercules, 16 Sep 2014.

  1. TheMadDutchDude

    TheMadDutchDude The Flying Dutchman

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    A tiny bit of LU goes a very, very long way. It has a special self-adhering process which helps it to do exactly that. :)

    You did remember to remove that electrical tape, didn't you? :D

    2500? You've got patience, sir. I only went to 2000 and after it was perfectly flat, I left it. For what it's worth, you may wish to cover IHS yourself using a bit of clingfilm around your finger and spreading the paste or using that spatula if you still have it. The copper reacts with the oxygen very quickly and oxidises really fast. I wouldn't leave it bare.
     
  2. Neogumbercules

    Neogumbercules What's a Dremel?

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    Ah yes. Forgot to mention that I did remove the tape first haha. I was gonna leave it at 2000 grit but I had the paper there and I was watching an episode of TNG so it was all good!

    I have already installed the supremacy block and put enough paste on there that it should cover the whole surface. Wasn't aware of the oxidation issue. Do you think I'll be ok as is now?

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  3. phuzz

    phuzz This is a title

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    I realise mounting the heatsink directly to the chip itself sounds a bit dodgy, but integrated heat spreaders have only been used for the past ten years or so, and very few people managed to destroy their chips before.
     
  4. Neogumbercules

    Neogumbercules What's a Dremel?

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    Yeah I have no doubt that I could make it work but I want to be able to reuse the supremacy block in the future so that's not gonna work with CLU. Plus I already bought the CLU and would be loathe to leave it unused.

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  5. TheMadDutchDude

    TheMadDutchDude The Flying Dutchman

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    Another thing to note is that the blocks are all made to only exert a certain amount of force. Once you remove the IHS, there's suddenly a big gap between the block and the die of the chip. You'd need to get the direct mounting kit (EK Precision Mounting kit or something like that) to give the right pressure and contact.

    As for the oxidation, I'd personally take it off and cover the chip up in cling film until it is ready to get used. My 4770K changed colour and went dark within a matter of days, although the humidity may be much higher here so it could take longer for you.

    My personal recommendation would be to cover the IHS as best as you can with a thin but consistent layer. It's easy to get the oxidation colour off of the chip (a few laps on the grit again) but it's just more of a pain in the rear end that you can avoid. :)
     
  6. Neogumbercules

    Neogumbercules What's a Dremel?

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    Thanks again for the tips dutch. I plan on powering on tomorrow so hopefully it won't be an issue. I ended up having to re-seat my block because I oriented it wrong like a dum dum. When I removed it, I saw that the gelid did a good job of spreading over almost the entire IHS so I'm confident it will be good.

    My stuff should arrive no later than tomorrow so expect a big build log from me soon!

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    Last edited: 22 Sep 2014
  7. TheMadDutchDude

    TheMadDutchDude The Flying Dutchman

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    Awesome! Build log!! :D
     
  8. Neogumbercules

    Neogumbercules What's a Dremel?

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    It is done! Expect the log in a new thread later today/tonight for most of the posters here. It's awesome!!

    Small teaser

    http://imgur.com/wLExorG
     
  9. TheMadDutchDude

    TheMadDutchDude The Flying Dutchman

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    Oh, you tease. :p
     

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