BEHOLD my finished awesome wood store. Solid pine (class 4 treated), with oak dowels. Not bad for a first attempt at construction. I probably overengineered it a little... EDIT: this is what was there before... It was literally falling apart, and the felt roof panels were sagging and leaking.
Aye looks great, I've always wanted to make something with dowels like that but I've just never had the cause. My own log store was left over fencing supplies and a nailgun
It's not sitting on Roman concrete, you didn't treat the wood with deep-penetrating urethane, and the base plates are not stainless steel. I'd say you are losing your touch. Looks awesome like you said, though. The lumber available here would be split and warped in a week.
Whilst working at my parents I'm currently just using part of the dining room table, and so have decided to make a desk so when I do visit and need to work I'm less in of the way (and an excuse to try and improve my DIY/woodworking). It'll just be made from some 3x2 cls and then the top is made from 12mm and 18mm plywood glued together Rough idea: 1000025881 by GeorgeStorm posted 28 Nov 2025 at 11:50 With each end: 1000025882 by GeorgeStorm posted 28 Nov 2025 at 11:50 a) wondering if I'd *need* a cross brace between the front and back legs? (current pieces will be glued and screwed) b) I like the idea of the stretchers/pieces going between each set of legs being removeable so the desk can be moved more easily if wanted, wouldn't be moved a lot though so guessing screws might just be fine, but wondered if threaded inserts would be better? Same for attaching the top (plywood) to the leg frame. Overall planned size is roughly 115 x 75 top, legs are around 70cm tall. Edit: Fixed image sizes
If it's light-duty, and needs to be dismantlable, I'd go with screw in angled table leg brackets. I wouldn't sit on it, though.
I fixed my driver side no heat problem by replacing the temperature blend door actuator. I'm grateful that it wasn't a heater core problem, or else my butt would have been freezing for the whole winter, considering how much of a pain they are to replace on modern cars.
The Asus VG248QE is back from the e-waste grave, after replacing 3 bulging capacitors on the PSU unit. I was able to source identical replacements from DigiKey for 29 cents a piece + shipping.
While tidying up my tool rack this week, I stumbled on a Phillips #4 screwdriver. I can honestly say I've never seen a screw that big.
-I have upgraded the stray chicken. Yes, the fence is crooked. The entire lot seems to be concrete 5" below the surface. This guy was curious about all the jackhammering I was doing. Edit: I guess I edited out the wonky fence bit.
Right - I have a random question that I thought I'd post on here first. Many years ago, I saw a front door security device, probably on YouTube, but can't remember if it was a concept or not. It was like one of those ramp-like barriers that raise at the entrances to car parks, comes out of the floor. Like this: Now imagine this, on a VERY much smaller scale, behind your front door lip/jamb/whatever it's called (if there was a front door in the image above it would be in front of the curved No Parking bit and the hallway would be at the back, on the left of the picture). It sits flush in the floor looking like nothing more than a doormat, until you raise it a few inches and it then prevents the door being pushed through from outside, since the whole door itself simply won't budge against it. The video I saw all those lunar cycles ago showed the door even resisting a battering ram. I'm looking for something like this, preferably that can be raised/lowered via remote key fob from the outside, so I can secure my house (against a violent ex who still has a key) when I'm not there. Desperately seeking Susan help with this as I'm drawing blanks every time I try to search using what I think are appropriate terms.
I don't want to pry but I am struggling to understand why you can install a big ****-off physical barrier inside your door to prevent anyone accessing your property but you can't change the locks. Edit: sorry, I wish you all the best with this but it feels like a very complicated & expensive easy to achieve what you need.
What about one or two horizontal electrically driven bolts on the back of the door into the frame? Something like remotely operated solenoids?
You generally don't want something that locks you out during a power failure, or could jam or break down. A claymore mine with a hidden off switch is frowned on too... Totally not giving you any ideas. Legally, it counts as adding a lock, so just the same as changing the locks. If you can't legally lock her out, you need a deterrent.
Yeah, it's a faff, no doubt. Tell you what though - in a moment of insanity I also toyed with an automatic parking bollard type thing, about four inches long, embedded in the wall next to the door, opening out horizontally. If anyone wants to mod me one of those, it'd be one for the books. Ah, but it would have to be remotely-operated and have somewhere to retreat into. But MIGHT also come with holes for boiling oil...?? I'm not sure, but I'm guessing so. I think anything inside is okay. THIS sounds a good idea! Like my parking bollard but better and more realistic! Do they exist or is it a mod? Good point - they must have thought of that in the design though, no? Do you mean the ramp counts as adding a lock, or adding a lock counts as changing one? Or adding a claymore counts as a lock? I do like that last one, but if she turns up during the school run, there could be collateral damage, not to mention damage to my drive. I'm guessing that's the same as adding a lock though, so is probably a No.
