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Planning Engineering a Vertical Wall-Mount: Grounding and Structural Weight on Wood Substrate

Discussion in 'Modding' started by FORGEDAWG, 15 May 2026.

  1. FORGEDAWG

    FORGEDAWG What's a Dremel?

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    Hi all,

    Following up on my intro thread in General. I’m starting the prototyping phase for a custom, vertical wall-mounted build. I’ve decided on a solid wood backboard (likely oak or a high-density birch ply) instead of a traditional chassis, but I have a few technical 'red flags' I’m trying to solve before I start the drilling.

    1. The Grounding Loop:

    Since wood is non-conductive, I’m concerned about losing the 'chassis ground' provided by a metal case. I know the PSU is grounded through the AC wall plug, and the motherboard/GPU share a common ground via the black 0V wires, but is it worth running a dedicated grounding wire or a copper bus bar behind the board to connect the motherboard standoffs to the PSU casing? I'd love to hear from anyone who has done a wood 'scratch-build' on how they handled ESD protection and long-term stability.

    2. GPU Structural Load:

    I’m planning to mount the GPU vertically (fans facing out) using a PCIe 4.0/5.0 riser. Given the weight of modern high-end cards, I'm worried about the 'pull' on the wood fibers over time.
    • Does anyone have experience with custom-machined L-brackets or threaded inserts for mounting to wood?
    • Is it safer to mount the GPU directly to the board, or should I be looking at a separate aluminum frame to take the weight off the wood?
    3. Thermal Management:

    Wood is a great insulator, which is usually the opposite of what you want for a PC. I’m planning for an open-frame design, but I'm curious if anyone has seen 'hot spots' develop on the back side of the PCB when mounted so close to a wooden surface.

    Looking forward to any insights or 'lessons learned' from the veteran modders here!

    Cheers,
    Forgedawg
     
    The_Crapman likes this.
  2. The_Crapman

    The_Crapman World's worst stuntman. Lover of bit-tech

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    1 - don't need to worry about grounding the board at all, ESD is not a problem with modern hardware, as everything is extremely well grounded by the PSU. People have made cases entirely from plexiglass which is a static nightmare, with no issues at all.

    2 - Really depends on how you're mounting it. If it's surface mounted I'd get a 1mm thick steel L bracket big enough to hold the rear Io plate, then drill, cut and file the holes for the display outside, but in also put some sort of strap over the top end to stop it leaning over. When attaching the bracket to the wood, I would suggest a small plate behind to pass bolt through to spread the load.

    The alternative is to have the GPU in a cut out and recessed a bit, with a frame and support structures behind.

    Could also be worth getting a cheap doner-case for some parts; motherboard standoffs are a pita to get spot on, so you could chop the mobo try out with standoffs on and then screw,bolt/glue that to the wood, and then you can chop off some of the rear pci brackets to help with GPU mounting.

    3 If it's all air cooled I wouldn't worry about it. The fans on the CPU GPU and PSU will be swirling air around. I would make sure things are at least a standard standoff height away from any surface to allow circulation
     
  3. FORGEDAWG

    FORGEDAWG What's a Dremel?

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    Good point on the grounding, thanks. One less thing to overengineer.

    The donor case idea makes a lot of sense for a shortcut. I'm planning to use an older MSI X570-A PRO and a Ryzen 7 5700X for this prototype, so finding a cheap ATX case to cut up should be easy enough.

    It does make me wonder where the line is between structural stability and looks. Is it better to just use the entire rear spine/chassis frame of the donor case to handle the motherboard, I/O, and GPU together, or does that end up looking too much like a standard case bolted to wood? I'm trying to keep the look clean, so cutting it down to just the flat tray might be worth the extra work.

    Whilst looking for a cheap chassis i came across this. Any thoughts on this kind of frame?
     

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  4. The_Crapman

    The_Crapman World's worst stuntman. Lover of bit-tech

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    If you want something custom and personalised, I'd try and stick to your vision as much as possible and just work out how. If you start taking too much case and form factor you'd probably be better off just getting a thermaltake P3/5 or similar.

    A lot of the working out will be during the actual build, might be worth roughing up a prototype on which aesthetics aren't even considered, just the mechanics, placement, cable routing etc. I've picked out a few mods for you to look over; some wall mount some wood builds

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/wall-mounted-game-pc-build.299948/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.p...by-thermaltake-asrock-seagate-and-amd.372311/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/ipredator-powder.377674/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/ikigai.383015/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/wooden-pc-desk-drawer-version-2-0.383041/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.p...mounted-pc-build-wood-copper-complete.290996/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/sisu-wallmount.358619/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/the-crow.383002/

    https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.p...-fan-upgrade-update-27th-january-2017.266632/
     
  5. FORGEDAWG

    FORGEDAWG What's a Dremel?

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    Much appreciated. Ill have a looksee over next few days.
     
  6. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Instead of a motherboard tray, you could use sheet aluminum, or ditch the motherboard risers and use screws and nuts that pass through the support board. For the riser spacer between the wood and mobo, I cut up clear Bic pen bodies, but you can use just about anything with a hole drilled in it. For getting the holes right, just used an old mobo tray and poster board. You punch holes in the posterboard with the mobo screw holes.

    Greensabbath's pics are gone. :waah:
     
  7. The_Crapman

    The_Crapman World's worst stuntman. Lover of bit-tech

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    So many pics are gone and builds lost. :sigh:

    Yeh I used an existing tray and marked out holes, but one of those ****ers wandered and was not what I needed at 3am on day 2 of no sleep :hehe:ditching the tray is probably a good idea, if you go the pass-through bolt method with spacers, can always make the holes a bit bigger to give wiggle room, and then washers to secure without dropping through.
     
  8. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Right? I should shut up about pics since most of my projects need the pics upped to bit and re-linked. It took 2 months to do one project, though...
     

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