Scratch Build – In Progress Epic PC X Series 20.10.2010 Its over, finished, complete. Come one come all :)

I agree, dont just mist the coolant onto the copper. Use a hose. Also do shorter depth cuts if possible.

 

Copper is cake as long as you know what you're doing. Here's some tips for softer materials (copper, aluminum, brass, etc) that I use while machining copper in my shop:

- Flood it. No mist, no dabs of oil. Build a dam around the edge of a copper and pour a bucket of coolant in there.

- 2 flute end mills. 4 flutes cut faster, but tend to gum up more if you don't get the feeds right.

- Buy solid carbide end mills. You won't regret it.

- RPM speeds of about 3000 for a 1/4" end mill. Scale that up linearly as you get smaller (or vice versa for bigger...e.g. 4000 for 1/8", 2000 for 1/2").

- Slow feed rates for a good finish. Something like 4 in / min for a 1/4" end mill (slow, but you won't break anything or gum anything up). Scale that up or down as well.

- Depth of cut doesn't really make much of a difference. However, I'd take off (0.25 * diameter) per pass for a good finish and a cool tool. Copper is easy as pie to machine if you follow some simple guidelines.

Good luck!


P.S...Buy new tools! Sharpness matters.

 

If you want to see how much coolant you should be using, check out DBRS project (the one where everything is done on the milling machine!)

 

Still needs mor


BTW nice progress on the project

 

What if the copper is in a small tupperware container filled with water? Wouldnt that have the same effect?

Ill be going to the factory tonight so expect updates! Also, Nils has shipped a whole heap of MDPC-X, Vincent has shipped a truckload of fittings and a parcel from Grieg at Gammods arrived earlier today!

 

How would you fasten the copper to the table, wouldn't a dam of modeling clay work better?

 

Well the CNC has T slots and I can just use silicon to plug one end and have a collection point for the water at the other side of the CNC. The problem then is that I dont have a hose or a fish pump to do the dirty work.

If I start cutting alot of copper I might just get a few fish pumps and attach the hose ends on the cutter head. I sure hope its all waterproof!

 

Your best best would be the damn suggestion myself and llamfur had. Build a damn of clay around the edges of your copper and just fill it gently with some water / oil.

 

Wow....I got a huge update for you guys. Today was christmas, I had three different packages arrive!





Greig from GAMMods, hands down...came in with the goods.


Dye bombs, corrosion blockers, MX-2 thermal paste...I'm in heaven. I estimated that this watercooling loop might have as much as 3.5 ltrs flowing through it so the extra dye bombs are great!


Some LEDs, 10mm acrylic, orange sleeving, orange temp sensor Tubing too!




Thats a huge effort, a big thanks to Greig at GAMMods. Seriously could not ask for more when it comes to case modding gear and watercooling parts.




Talking about watercooling parts, my second package arrived from Vincent at bitspower.



Apparently these have not been released yet Mmmmm black sparkle 90 degree's.


Oh and my last arrival, the 3m cap screws for the watercooling blocks I am just about to make



So back to the watercooling blocks.


Bit ironic that all I needed for this waterblock to turn out properly....was a bit of water. My second attempt at creating the waterblocks turned up more fruit than a fruit shop.


What didnt turn out was my 20 dollar cutting bit that I bought yesterday, these blocks were starting to eat my tools.


A hand held spray and alot of patience were all that was needed to make something turn out like this

rather than....



This.....





The milling continued....

Actually, now would be a really good time to explain the "nozzel" idea. In theory, the water hits that quatered circle and spreads out causing turbulance. In reality though, it might just be a laminar flow party in there. We wont know till I do some burn testing!



All the cut blocks.




Anyhow, as we all know. a block without a top is not all that useful. Onwards with the top of the block then!

You cant see it and I wont show it but, adding water to an acrylic cut is possibly the worst idea I came up with all day.


http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs173.snc3
/20060_472719845229_885085229_11252728_2157890_n.jpg
Getting there. Plenty of room to move in the block. It wont cause restriction hopefully.






Thats more like it. After all the engraving trouble and tool changing, I realised that the compression fittings wont allow anyone to see it. Still....I like it.


Okay! So the next few are just eyecandy of the blocks I made.
























Autocad doesn't lie. It looks tight but they move freely





Next update should be pretty massive. I have a new sponsor to announce and those blocks will all be sealed and tested. I am in the process of editing a new video for my youtube channel and it includes an interactive guide around my motherboard tray plus everything you see here.




Also just another thanks to Greig from GAMMods!

 

Nice block, I'm glad it worked out for you

 

Thanks!

And for the record the spray was the best way to go because it could clear the material away whilst cutting. A dam would have just held all the material in one spot...

 

Awesome blocks! Tops need a little polish though

 

Very nice!!!

 

Those are some slick water blocks, where are you going to get your Orings?

 

holy snot batman!
those are massive!!!!!!
EPIC block btw


boy thats a pun if there ever was one

 

You want both turbulent and laminar flow in an ideal block (IIRC). At the center you want as much turbulence as you can, at the rest of the places, you want laminar flow. (IIRC Swiftech is more into laminar flow with their GTZ and recently XT (The #1 right now: http://skinneelabs.com/i7-blocks-2.html ) blocks which are/were two of the top blocks. If your interested in running up some designs on Inventor + Algore Simulation Pro, PM me. As for more info on DIY block constructions,tips,etc check up with Burnout21 who's done quite a bit of DIY blocks.

 

I was wondering that too. I see the base plates are slightly grooved but it also looks like you have only slightly grooved the tops as well. Without shaped sealing rings or a deep channel to seat the o-rings surely it's going to be a pain to get them to stay put when putting the blocks together.
They're still pukka though. I wish I had a machine like that, man, the possibilities.

 

Haha ill let myself be ignorant on the performance of this block, theres no way in hell im standing beside a running cnc for an hour with a spray bottle again...

+rep for the info and offer though!

I got O-rings 2mm in diameter and the top and bottom had 1mm give each. The o-ring didnt like stretching square though so I might go with the gasket silicon.

Thanks, Good to hear im living up to the billing.



Lamptron


Time to introduce my new sponsor!

Andy from Lamptron will be sponsoring this project and after the Chinese New Year Holiday, he will be sending a few goodies through. I have always used Lamptron switches in my projects (what scratch builder wouldnt?) and it is absolutely fantastic to have their support.


Here is a list of products I have my eye on.


FC5 Fan Controller


Their FC5 fan controller is really slick and with 7*120mm fans in the case, its just what I need.

Steel Mesh Filters


Acrylic cases can be dust magnets, fan filters are a must.


CCFL Inverter


I've had a CCFL overheat and light on fire before so lets hope that this can handle the heat. Very slick.


I will also be chasing a lamptron black matte switch with white lighting and a White CCFL pack!

Once again, thanks to Lamptron and GAMMods for the sponsorship!

 

Seriously?!?!?

 

Yeah im not kidding, I have serious questions over how safe the standard ones are.