Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Top Nurse, 23 Sep 2005.
I've seen red, blue, white and UV, but not green.
The white remains on top of my list.
that is some very nice and neat cable routing there
White as like in a flashlight white? I got to try that along with the green.
Thanks for saying so. I just made up the first part of the all black wire SATA power cable. Now the hard part, getting the second one in with no slack.
Anyone got any ideas on getting off the printing on the wires? I tried alcohol, but that didn't do anything.
take a look at my log (see my sig) around post #592 and also the last pages...there you'll see 'action pics' of white and blue. Will give you a good idea. The white above the water level is the best choice, the blue (in my case) diffuses better.
To make this, I just took a standard Aqua-Computer LED cable (red/blue) for the Aquatube, chopped off the red led and soldered on a white one (standard specs, so 3-ish V). It is connected to the Aquatube and controlled by the Aquasuite software. The white led is off at start and gets brighter when the water t° rises. If there is something wrong in the system, it switches to 100% brightness and starts flashing together with the blue one.
Hope that helps.
I water cooler from back in 2005 I bet it was much different in them days. Great thread, although my eyes hurt now *squints*
That looks interesting! BTW, awesome mod you got there.
The green I have in the front Aquabay looks really sick (kind of reminds me of Doom green radioactive pools), but I didn't add in a series resistor so I am kind of keeping my finger crossed in terms of longevity. I think I am about 1 volt over specs at 100% brightness.
Me too, but it was the same as now. I started this mod in 2005...
Okay I managed to make up one of these black wired SATA power loom this morning. I used the insulation displacing type of connectors and hooked up the first connector. Plugged in the connector to my top optical drive and stuck in a second connector to my lower optical drive to figure out where to connect it to.
After checking the angle of the dangle I marked my black wires with some yellow dots (Dykem marking pen).
And here we are with both connectors inline and ready to hook up to the main PSU loom.
But hold the horses as I just had an
After seeing how the wires are connected to the connector blocks another wild thought popped out my rear end. So if I can get some really small black sleeving I should be able to press the sleeved wire directly into the connectors! Another prototype is on its way later today.
I did a little fooling around to see what, if any, changes might occur by doing the HD with the power loom I cooked up. Actually I was surprised to see just how much it cleans up the mess. Looks like I got some work cut out for me and it's time for another visit to the electronics store to stock up on wire, solder, and more sleeving.
an even more brilliant idea, is if you can find male SATA connectors, just make "bridge strips" that connect into those at the top of the bay, rather than continue along a cable.
Please clarify? Are we talking about the power connectors, data, or both? Perhaps I am slow today, but a pic of your idea would be fantastic.
Windows 7 Ultimate arrived Saturday. I have some PC work to do for my brother Sunday so it will probably be mid week before I get back on FF.
Just a quick blog here. I had another surgery on my foot a few days ago. Sometimes I think my podiatrist thinks of me as a cash cow. Still recovering from surgery and the work crews have demolished my living room from a rain problem. Can't even get into my work closet so things are dead here till next week sometime.
I really like the green LED's in the Aquatubes so I think I will put one in the CPU circuit. Decided to replace the stock ASUS lit logo on the motherboard with something else. Will post back with pics once I figure out how to do something with Photoshop.
Man sucks about the surgery and your living room situation, good luck .
I saw my doc last Friday and he said they used a Dremel tool with a stainless steel miniature circular saw blade to cut some bone. Everywhere you look there are Dremels!
The living room went back to normal on Friday and you can't even tell they had ripped out the wall. Now I can get back into my mod closet.
Well it was a nice sunny day in Southern California so I hobbled outside to my EPA approved suburban paint booth (the back alley) and painted up another Innovatek flow meter. Also did a grey plastic thingy from my case that I think looks better in black. Pics tomorrow when they go in the computer.
Innovatek flow meter warning
Little update here as I didn't want you to think I wasn't doing anything. After I painted and sleeved the 2nd Innovatek flow meter I installed it and guess what? It was kaput as well. This really annoyed me as I checked to make sure it worked prior to modding it.
After having a rant and discussion about this elsewhere I decided to take it apart and see how I screwed it up if for no other reason than for posterity. First thing you have to do is to drill off the rivets. I used a 1/8" drill bit.
When you take the top off (no worries about getting it back on correctly as it is keyed) this is what you will see. Pretty standard type of paddle wheel flow meter. Essentially the wheel goes around and the magnets create a pulse through the circuitry embedded in the bottom of the unit.
Here is a closeup of te paddle wheel.
The slots in the top are what actually controls the flow through the unit. Looks like you could open up these slots a bit to increase the flow rate. If you decide to do this you will have to recalibrate the unit.
The exterior threads are G 1/4 and the internal ID is about 0.300". However it does slim down a bit before it enters the internal part of the flow meter.
So after ripping this meter apart I have come to some conclusions about why both of these units failed. First of all the painting had nothing to do with it. While I have no actual proof (since the electronics are embedded in epoxy) it is my belief that, while adding heatshrink to the sleeving closest to the meter, the wires heated up and destroyed some part of the internal circuitry. So if you plan on sleeving this unit be very careful about the amount of heat you apply!
I ended up just putting a T fitting in the line while I obtain another flow meter from Koolance like i used in the CPU circuit.
I have also been playing around with different wiring schemes. Here I am trying out using 18 gauge speaker wire instead of my normal 18 gauge PSU wiring. The advantage of this stuff is that it can also be RIT dyed so as to have translucent wires. Maybe blue, red, or
Green tinted wires all over the place. What do YOU think?
awesome clear cables
i like the way those look.
they would look better in a case that has a white-ish theme to it
but they still look good none-the-less
nice work btw
^ nice sig btw
Hey! Where did you get aluminum core clear wire? That will stain much better than the copper core stuff.
@Cheapskate: I don't recall seeing Aluminium (Al) cored speaker wire anywhere; but the HiFi "enthusiasts" do tend to go a bundle on Silver (Ag) speaker wire in additon to Oxygen Free Copper (Cu).
@disturbed13: Nice sig, heh!
@Cheapskate: I don't think it is aluminum wire. It looks to me to be some kind of plated copper stranded wire. It comes on speaker wire with one silver color and one copper color wire. I just stripped off the copper color wire. Got it at JK Electronics in Westminster, CA though I am pretty sure i have seen this stuff elsewhere.
@Captain Haddock: So where can I get some of this silver wire? I like silver!
Good to see you back Top Nurse.
Sorry to learn about you flow meters ... but a lesson learned for the rest of us ...
About the cables, I liked them better black. Dont really know why, just do ... sorry about that.
Nice work though!
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