Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by ssR, 12 Mar 2007.
i'm sure everyone's glad to hear it's good things that are keeping you from modding
Looking forward seeing you back here! Beefier and healthier than ever before *LOL*
Well guys after a long absence I'm finally back to work. It's been a long while since i last updated this worklog and I'm deeply sorry about that.
But I finally figured out my new day schedule so now i can get back to modding
Lets get started. I left this project after finishing the PSU covers, and now I'm gonna continue working on the interiors.
I began with making the mold for the wiring tunnel that goes around the mobo cover and is supposed to hide all the wires
The mold for the wiring tunnel was made the same way as earlier, a MDF plug covered with teflon tape. The white dots you see on the mold are 3mm holes covered with small stickers to allow easier release of the part using compressed air.
I first began with laminating the wiring tunnel. After preparing the mold surface with some coats of mold release wax, i began laying down the fabrics
A total of 5 fabric layers were used for this part. First 3 layers were 3oz/m^2 fiberglass, then a layer of 4.3oz/m^2 carbon and finally another layer of fiberglass.
Then the part got covered with peelply and breather cloth and went into vacuum bag. Small parts like this require vacuum bagging to press the fabric layers one against the other and squeeze the excess resin. The dots you see on the breather cloth is the excess resin drawn from the part through a layer of perforated nylon and into the breather cloth
Next was the rohacell and fabric sandwich laminate i made for the walls of my drives and electronics cage.
I used a mirror as a base for the layup, which should give me a perfect, glass like finish.
The mirror was then painted with a coat of high gloss black paint, the same i used to paint my motherboard cover. I made the paint thick on purpose and sprayed from a rather big distance to achieve a what is called orange peel. The reason is that orange peel paint naturally has more surface area, allowing for a better adhesion to the fabrics layed afterward
After letting the paint dry for about 20 minutes i layed down the first layer of fabric. A very thin 2oz/m^2 fiberglass for a perfect finish with no pinholes. The fabric was first applied on a still tacky paint, with some gentle brush strokes to smooth and even the fabric across the surface and then soaked with resin
Next was a layer of carbon to make the laminate even more rigid
After soaking the carbon with a generous amount of resin a sheet of 2.5mm thick rohacell was applied, and finally one last layer of fiberglass to complete the sandwich structure.
This part went to the vacuum bagging aswell to extract the extra resin and press the layers against the glass evenly.
ah finally an update...
ive a question again: using a mirror as mold is teh best way to get a perfect surface but i dont get why you also applied some paint to the surface?
or do you want to have a Black panel and the carbon is just in there for strenght ?
That's the first time I've seen someone paint a part before it was made. That will be one heck of a shiny coat of paint.
I suspect the orange-peel effect on the mirror will inprint a texture on the resine-fiber sandwich.
Wow... ssR, you and your Carbon Fibre..
awesome fibre work as usual and excellent to see the project back up again
He gave reasons for painting the mirror - the orange peel gained from the paint adds more surface area so the fabric adheres better.
it's amazing, glad you've found time, I love this case!
Thanks everyone for your continuous support!
derbaum: you answered your own question
Cheapskate: The pain texture will never be imprinted on the part, as the finish matches the external base of the mold, in this case the glass. However, if you lay down the fabric before the paint is dry to the touch, the fabric will imprint it's texture on the paint. Hope that helps
Duste: you got it wrong i believe. I made an orange peel so that the fabric can adhere better to the paint itself not to the surface of the following layers
Now, we can move to today's update. That unfortunately ended up with a small disappointment for me
First i extracted the rohacell and fiberglass sandwich i made for the drive cage walls. Apparently the mirror itself had some scratches producing a not-so-perfect finish. As if it wasn't enough I made a pretty stupid move. As i went to trim off the excess fabric around the skin on a band saw, i dragged the laminate across the metal table with the painted side facing downwards. This with some dirt particles laying on the table resulted in some pretty deep and annoying scratches on the laminate surface.
I was pretty pissed off at first but considering the fact the skin didn't came out perfect from the beginning i simply decided to sand the paint and repaint the parts later on after they were finished.
Next came the wire tunnel. The part was extracted with a relative ease and some help from compressed air gun.
After trimming off the excess fabric i did a test fit and it was tight!
Next was the drives cage walls fabrication. The rohacell laminate was cut to the desired size and then shaped to match my original design.
Finally a small test fit with some components. Seems that so far everything matches the original plans
When I saw that last picture, I was like "Why the hell is that radiator so small? ". When looking for the second time, I realised the case is just that big
i just wasnt shure if o got your plans right but now i am ^^
using "ordinary paint" as a basecoat was new to me, i allways used a special gelcoat, but the sprayed paint is definitly a cleaner solution.
today ive got some more questions:
1. what kind of paint are you using? cans or 2k-high quality ?
2. are you using epoxy oder polyester based resins ?
Inspiring as usual ssR and i'm definitely glad you're back in business as this is my favorite project to watch. Keep it up.
finally an update!
very good work, as usual
I loved the "tunnel wire" idea,
keep up the good work!
brinkz0r: the case isn't that big, its just that the rad is dual 80mm not 120mm, so it looks small compared to the case.
derbaum: 1. I use sikkens 2 component paint for all of my projects, never used can sprays.
2. I'm using epoxy based resin, CIBA 5052 if you're interested in the resin type
greensabbath: Getting comments from you is always a pleasure, glad to see you still hanging around, hoping to see another project from you sometimes soon
You're going ahead now, nice to see! Keep up that schedule and you'll satisfy both yourself and us
Nice looking as usual!!!
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