Hi all, Well I have made the jump and have started to plan my build although I have a few ideas im not sure how they will work. So hopefully with the collective brains you lot have maybe we can come up with a solution. The idea I am stuck on is that as the thread says I would like to use flexible metal tubing instead of normal tubing but I am stuck on how to connect these to the waterblocks. I have seen metal pipes used in other builds but cant work out how they connected them to the water blocks or fittings. I preference would be to use a compression fitting. ideas welcome
Its been less than 4 hours. Most of the activity on forums will come in the evening. When you say flexible do you mean you want to be able to bend them while attached? Short of metal braiding i don't think its that possible. If you can bend them before then copper pipe should be fine for your purposes. As to attachment... I really don't know unless you get yourself a G1/4" die and thread the pipe...
was thinking the very same over the last week or so here is a start atleast http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=articles&disp=35
maybe a compression fitting coated in silicon so like a custom made o-ring? dunno how it'd hold up though. Also soldering the joints together is what seems to be suggested on the sight this would probably be solder but rather permanent .
One problem with doing it is the bends have to be DEAD-accurate. Metal pipe isn't really very flexible, so it puts a lot of stress on the blocks. There's a possibility of un-seating the block from the chip. Another problem is every time you change equipment, you have to rebuild the piping. (Yeah, that one's probably obvious...learned that one with Bloo.) Currently, the best way to do it is with Bitspower SLI fittings and 12mm OD pipe. You will want hard pipe as the annealed coiled stuff has gone through a roller to coil it. That makes the cross-section of the pipe oblong, and bad for O-ring fittings. You could do it with compression fittings, but as Xye said, you will need to make your own connections or modify the block fittings. Ninja'd by jam. I wouldn't recommend using silicone sealant. I found out the hard way that metal corrosion works it's way past it.
I'm trying to find someplace to buy some with a "1/2" ID ATM I just cut up an old shower yesterday to try and fit the hose through it but it looks to be "3/8" ID(need 3/8 OD tubing which seems little thin still if a shower can use it) trying plumbing shop tomorrow I did find a pet store online that will do a black PVC version of shower hose sleeve in various sizes but I want metal lol. can find you braided steel sleeve as well if that helps.
Don't know the specifics of your build but just a quick idea - is it worth just using normal WC tubing for the practical side of things, then just have metal sleeving around it for the aesthetics? Of course this is only suitable if you only want the metal tubes for the visual appeal and not planning something more extravagant.
Thanks for the input, I was thinking there could be two ways of approaching this. I think the best option would be trying to find flexible tubing rather than actual pipework thus avoiding some of the problems around upgrading, so something like shower hose. The second option is to use normal tubing and look for a wrap solution. I think a trip to a plumbing centre might bring up a few ideas. To be honest the more im thinking that this type of mod will bring me back to the roots of PC modding in the days of hunting round a scrap yard for parts rather than a few clicks and a nice package of goods are sent. Keep the ideas coming im sure there is a solution in here somewhere
here you go http://www.metalflex.co.uk/stainless-steel-flexible-hose-assemblies/ google stainless steel flexi hose, i'd nick some from site for you but, you know, there half metre diameter sooo.
Again- You spend more on connections and crimping gear. Shower hoses are usually metal sleeved pvc tubing with proprietary crimp fittings on each end.