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G-gnome's Orac³ - Part 1

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by G-gnome, 23 Aug 2003.

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  1. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    [​IMG]

    The plan was to have the boxes screwed together with a neon Perspex divider that I could light up.

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    This is just my desk lamp shining through from the top but gives an idea of what I want to achieve.

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    I made a mounting block from a piece of ½” Lexan. I got a number of small pieces of this for free from the off-cuts bin at the plastics supplier I go to (I did ask them first). I cut it out with a hacksaw and filed the edges and corners before sanding and polishing. The holes are 6mm drilled using a drill-press and Plexi-Point drill bit.

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    Nice silky edges and I cut the block so it would fit just inside the corner curve of the boxes and not overhang (an overhang just didn’t look right when I was messing about test-fitting and thinking up ideas for the mounting).

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    The back of one box showing location of screw holes, LED holes (for the centre divider lighting) and holes in the top to pass wiring through.

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    Drilling the bottom of the boxes for the stainless steel hose (you can see the small pilot holes I have drilled to allow accurate lining-up of the step drill). You can also see in this picture how I have already used screws to join the whole assembly together. This gave the box more stability during the drilling process and allowed me to drill pilot holes through both the boxes and the divider that lined up perfectly. The box was then taken apart and these remaining pilot holes were enlarged on each piece individually due to a requirement for different sized holes.

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    Drilled the mounting holes in the top of the case (6mm).

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    The finished pieces of the junction box. The three small holes in the divider are where the wiring will pass between both the boxes.
     
    Last edited: 26 Aug 2003
  2. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    [​IMG]

    Note the larger diameter of the two larger holes in the neon Perspex compared to the chrome box. This is because I will be inserting 3mm LEDs into the gaps here once the box is assembled and I wanted the entire lighty-up part of the LED to be able to fit in here. 3mm Perspex = 3mm LED = Perfect! When the boxes are together the 4 LEDs will work well to light all of the edge of the neon green divider – their light maximised by being sandwiched between the two highly reflective surfaces of the chrome boxes.

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    The whole Perspex divider in place.

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    The box screwed together using …

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    … four short wood screws (I salvaged these out of some old shelves in our spare room at home – hmm, must remember to tell my fiancée not to put anything heavy on those!:worried:

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    The junction box from the top – ready for wiring up!

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    The front facing lid of the box. 3.5 mono jack sockets (to be wired for DC) and a central LED holder. I would have preferred to use proper DC plugs but couldn’t find any (or convert any) that I liked the look of. It just means I have to be a little more careful wiring them and won’t be able to plug/unplug them when the PSU is on (or risk a short-circuit) – however, nothing requires actual plugging in while the PSU is on.

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    I put a rubber surround on the LED holder (to match the ones on the PSU). Note the stainless steel washers on the top four sockets – these were later removed and replaced with rubber washers. These top four sockets are used as a link in a circuit between four of the front Vandal switches and the LEDs located above them and, as such, I wanted to insulate them from the chrome on the box (which is in contact with all the GND connections). I also had to ream some of the chrome from around the edges of these holes (this is hidden by the rubber washers) to insulate them.
     
    Last edited: 26 Aug 2003
  3. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    [​IMG]

    Dremel with a small cutoff wheel (you know, the ones left over after you have been cutting a lot) used here to remove some plastic to allow one of the sockets to fit.

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    Same thing on the other side (but two sockets were going here).

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    Test fitting the mounting bracket – the wing-nuts are temporary.

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    Test fitting – checking clearances of sockets and bolts.

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    Test fitting to the case. It is at this point that the value of planning and measuring properly come into play – The plugs, etc. will nicely clear the top of the 5.25 bays.
     
    Last edited: 26 Aug 2003
  4. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    [​IMG]

    MPP wired up with inline resistors on all power connections. Wiring up the resistors here allows me to be able to plug any LED into any socket without worry and will save me having to try and find a way of fitting/hiding a bulging resistor inside my LED holders.

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    Checking the fit again (check and test, check and test …)

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    The 3mm LEDs for the divider, Sanded with 320 grit to diffuse them and the ends flattened to break up the curvature of the lens and give a more even brightness.

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    LED power wired up. I generally stuck with correct wire colours throughout the mod (i.e. 12v=yellow, 5v=red, GND=black) to make the wiring task a lot less confusing (remember – I am a beginner when it comes to electronics) :D

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    I wired up my 5v/GND from the PSU AUX line, via a switch, to this PCB. It acts as a junction with 5v/GND going in and several 5v/GNDs going out.

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    More wiring. Two DVD drive power lines on the left and 4 PC Rider+ LED controller power lines run through the two right-hand stainless hoses. You can see I have used a double layer of 3M double-sided mounting tape (the thick spongy stuff) to insulate the back of the PCBs and stick them to the inside of the box..

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    This switch is wired to the 4 PC Riders. If I get tired of all those flashing lights – I can turn em off. I’ll need to remove the case side panel though as the switch isn’t accessible from the outside, but I thought about this and decided it would stop cheeky people at LANs from messing with my lights.
     
    Last edited: 28 Aug 2003
  5. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    [​IMG]

    Final pic of the front part of the junction box ready to be closed. The MPP was a bit of a tight fit! Only a very carefully planned drawing saved me from total confusion:

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    Hey … at least I can understand it :)

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    Pic of the rear part of the junction box – these are all the wires coming through from the MPP and DVD/PC Rider lines. Note how I wrote where I was going to put everything. This turned out to be the best thing I ever did – you wont see the writing when the boxes are shut and it saved me from getting totally lost in the wiring!

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    Taking a break I shortened the 3mm socket head screws I will be using to secure the lids. :dremel:

    To be Continued...

    (after a few more peeps have posted and it goes to a new page - gotta think of all the 56k'ers out there (incl. me)).
     
    Last edited: 26 Aug 2003
  6. NiHiLiST

    NiHiLiST New-born car whore

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    More niceness! How long have you spent on this case so far mate?
     
  7. TheoGeo

    TheoGeo What are these goddamn animals?!

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    nice, i wish i had the time/equiptment/money to do something like this
     
  8. Mister_Tad

    Mister_Tad Super Moderator Super Moderator

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    /drools
     
  9. GT3_GOD

    GT3_GOD New Member

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    What hardware is going in it? You should get a DFI lan party mobo to continue on the lit up green theme :)
     
  10. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    Started planning and ordering stuff in April. Actually was only ready to start real work on the case about 5 weeks ago - but I only get a few hours on a couple of evenings a week, plus maybe one (long) day on a weekend to Mod as my regular job takes up a lot of time :sigh: (as does my better-half :) ). I am not sure of an accurate number of hours :confused:

    In fact, I have probably spent as much (or more) time photographing, downloading, uploading, typing, posting and grappling with VB to get this thread happening :lol: As soon as I have caught up with posting my work-log to date I should be able to crack on and get a decent amount done. I will be going into hospital to get an operation on my leg in a few weeks (to pull out a steel plate) so expect a lot of progress then as I will be on convalescence leave :clap:

    :blah: you know you are a hopeless modding addict when you are glad for an operation as it will give you time off work to mod!:sigh:
     
  11. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    Hey GT3_GOD:)

    There is a big list of the hardware (all of which I already have) for the case in the thread. Besides, the motherboard will be 'stealthed' - I could tell you more ... but then I'd have to kill you:cooldude: :lol:

    edit - I do like those DFI boards though! Mmm...tasty
    :thumb:
     
  12. dreamie

    dreamie New Member

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    cool. great mod. :dremel:
     
  13. GT3_GOD

    GT3_GOD New Member

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    Guess I kinda got distracted by the pics, completely missed the systems specs. :D
     
  14. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    Final Junction Box Assembly...

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    LEDs inserted into the gap between the two boxes. These are angled to try to evenly cover the outside edges of the neon green Perspex divider. They will be held in place with hot-glue.

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    Wires held out of the way … bit like surgery … clamp … scalpel … dremel …

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    I finished extending my SATA cables and trimming/screwing the plugs into their new homes.

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    At last! The rear part all wired up and no place to go …

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    … except into my case! Everything worked out perfectly down to the twist of the hoses between the reservoirs (I had done a sketch/test-fit of these as well).
     
    Last edited: 15 Sep 2003
  15. ReFredzRate

    ReFredzRate Relix Headshot!!

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    What you are creating is something truly magnificent! I cant remember being more jealous of anyone else than ZapWizard, but for everything is an end ;) What you do with the green plexi plates is very cool as well :rock:
     
  16. G-gnome

    G-gnome Peter Dickison

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    It's in the details...

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    My PC Rider switch. The jack plug you see here is yet to be wired up, I just left it in to see how they will look.

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    View from underneath showing all the power hoses coming out of the bottom of the box.

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    From the front: Stainless steel socket head cap screws and stainless steel washers.

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    Mounting bracket. I used dome nuts on the first two bolts as a temporary measure as these bolts are upside down until I can mess around inside the front half and fix em up – I was seeing how they looked both ways.

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    From the top. Remember, there will be 21 jack plugs and cables plugged into this when complete.
     
    Last edited: 15 Sep 2003
  17. Atomic

    Atomic Gerwaff

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    Case modding just went up another notch. This is truely amazing!
     
  18. relix

    relix New Member

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    I rarely post in project logs, and I hate clear cases, but what you're doing is just amazing! :eeek: It's like "wow wow wow" (not just 1 wow, but multiple wow's!). I truly like this case, nice ideas (like the showerthings! very nice!), nice details, very original! Fantastic!

    Keep up the good work :clap:
     
  19. EnderG60

    EnderG60 New Member

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    Thanks for making me feel like crap about my meger abilities with plexi:jawdrop:
     
  20. olv

    olv he's so bright

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    You dont need to work any more! You could make a fortune making custom cases for people! You should do what mashie does and make custom cases for companies to show off their hardware in!
     
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