That's the one... I remember seeing the picture and reading the post. Been a bad day at work... I had a memory lapse....So we are all buggered then.. I've striped my wires ready, but that about it so far....
Be careful with the thing now if the pot might be damaged. Maybe better change a new pot. I once killed a Displaytech KS0108 display because of a bad pot. I think these are transmissive displays so you might not see it very well without backlight but in good light you should see something. I'll have to admit I have never tested this with CFAG12864-TMI-V so I can't say anything definitive. So you can remove the two backlight wires without affecting the rest of the display as the backlight pins just go to the backlight leds. But you need the potentiometer correctly connected to get the contrast working to see anything. You could try the test prog here: http://www.skippari.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=121 Take the KS0108 version later from the thread, not the noritake vfd version from the first post. It doesn't use DLPortIO at all and everything is included in the package. It uses the WinIO port driver which is automatically loaded when you execute the program. There might be some problems with the automatic loading if you don't have admin rights. EDIT: I have also had problems with DLPortIO and sometimes it just refuses to load and I wasn't able to fix it. In newer programs I've used WinIO which is also faster and hasn't caused any problems for me yet. In that picture by Acrim the display looks like it would be close to working. Timing problems I think. What are the LPT settings in bios ?
Okay Henri, heres where i'm at now. Tried to run that software you linked to the animation thingy-bob, but it just ran then disapeared with no change to the lcd (was frozen on test screen) so i tried the old test program/liquid mp3 to see if i ould get anything, still nothing. So i felt the back of the unit, the chips like you mentioned, and the one furthest to the left (looking at it from the back) was very hot. I haven't changed anythign from last night when i took that picture, can you offer me anymore advice because i'm just about reasdy to give up, I've given hours to this and gone through alot of stress about it. I got my parallel port settings from the BIOS btw: 378/IRQ7 ECP+EPP Mode ECP DMA = 3 Cheers!
Ok, hot chips never sound good. Are you getting picture at all anymore ? If not it doesn't sound good as if you got picture with the same config yesterday and there's no change then the controller chip might have burned. Does the chip always get hot even if you disconnect the display and then power up again ? Your parallel port settings should be fine but you can always test the other modes if you haven't already.
Even if i unplug then replug in it still gets hot, no config screen is displayed just a very hot chip and a blank (well an all-on) screen.
I'm now getting a little worried about this...... mine is sitting here waiting for me to start the wiring, but I'm not sure I wanna jump into this just yet Darkside.
My advice for anyone would be: Make sure you PSU voltages are clean, there is no sources of interference anywhere near, there are no shorts at all, you don't give the board excessive heat when soldering and that the data wire is as short as you can do with. Oh also, the right wires in the right places really help alot I have another display to try, but i think i'll leave it a few days, see how poeple get on, don't want to cook that too.
I would love to have a bash but NO kit yet hope someone gets it going because this will fit in my keyboard and I want it to work , just to show off at lan partys
85 wordsworth (checked original e-mail and this was sent) so are you local ? coz if you are we could sort out me pickin up or you drop off (will pay if other is lost in post) may be ZAPWIZARD could help coz he`s a bit smart with this kinda stuff
Chris Amps asked me to check in here. What schematic are you using? LCDinfo only for software or are you also using PowerLCD?
Now for a really noob question. You know the Earth symbols. What actually do you have to connect those too? And also pin 20 on the lcd the one with th r7 resistor how is that bit wired up. R3 is the POT...right. So whats R7....Told ya noob questions...
I think that the earth symbols means you wire it up to the ground (GND) black wire in the molex. I think im right but not 100% about it. As for the other questions im as lost as you are
Which 1 of these god damn wiring displays works? theres been about 5 different ones. Some with pin 14 to 5v some with pin 14 to ground arg stupid!
In both schemes on this page pin 14 goes to 5v(=+5volt). NOT ground. All earth connections should indeed go to the black wire of the molex. R7 is ALSO a POT (100ohm). It has three pins, the middle and either other one are shorted.
