Scratch Build – Complete GwassGween -FINISHED-Nov13 2013-pics start on page 67

Well, we all know who to blame if anything goes wrong. So Cheaps can just use good ol' trial-and-error.

But could I get some help over here now? Jaw's on the floor...

Well done mate!

 

Thanks guys.
@Perplekks - It's not my fault your jaw is on the floor. Everything I've done so far is a re-hash of my previous work.
@Bfelda - The old lexan argument again. The ones I made for Bloo are still very supple. I think problems with cracking would only occur if you put the material in a situation where it's always bent.
-I just remembered a section of curved solarium glass I replaced with lexan. It hasn't done any cracking either, and it's exposed to sunlight.
Anyway, the stuff is really flexible, and you can fold it without cracking it, (in my experience.) I have a 1/2" thick piece that someone tried to cut with an industrial metal shear.
@Modminded -

It's a good thing I didn't say anything about how it takes all my 3/8" shank bits...
SOMEWHERE on the net there is a free DXF SU exporter. I think I found it on a Guitar making forum. SU works great for basic 2.5D stuff, but I wouldn't use it for curves. -Not that I care. I have to sand the stuff down anyway.

 

It's NOT your fault?! YEAH RIGHT!

 

Well lexan is uv proof, not only does it not get damaged by uvs, it doesnt let any through.
So no solar damage to lexan (This is polycarbonate we are talking bout right?)

And i can confirm it will not crack or break only bend. You can drive over it and it will only bend out of shape.
If you make a deep cut in it with a utiliy knife then you can snap a section off.

I used to work for a signage company and this is what they use when they dont want their plastic signs to be broken by "local riffraff"
This is the stuff they use for bulletproof windows afterall.

So i really doubt that those clips will break or crack even if bent all the time.
Most probably your worst case scenario is that they are going to bend out of shape, nothing more.

 

Looking good. Wouldn't it be easier and stronger to use thicker sheets rather than lots of thinner ones on the side panels etc, or is it like that for aesthetics?

 

Thanks.
There's a lot of reasons for doing it this way.
A single 2' x 4' sheet of 1/4" plexiglas from this company cost me ~66 bucks. The size choices they carry skip from 1/4" to 1". A 2x4 of 1" costs $370. They are also not the most precise cutters. They cut one panel 1/8" short of 24", and the other 3/16 short. I made sure to cut the frame parts from the same sheet the body panels were cut from so they would match.
The layered look will make neat effects when polished, and it's just as strong as a solid piece. Also I'm sandwiching machine nuts in the frame layers.

 

Pwus one.

 

lol! (pwus rep)

Anyone remember Elmer Fudd Google results?

 

Still in the testing stages...

No way! People have a hard enough time understanding me here.
-My slow progress must drive you people crazy.

-The test fit of the drive latches proved my fears were correct. The best way to fix this is to move the fan to the outside, which will hit the frame. The back is going to end up being the most interesting area on the case. Note to self: Add a baseplate.

-I need something to help me get the access panels oriented right. As they are, I wouldn't be able to tell if they were left, right, or even upside-down. So what you are seeing in the pic is a little experiment for possibly adding color inserts on the panels. I have some 1/8" UV blue that would look good as a small accent.

-You can see here I have a small gap between the parts. It's enough that the center bit spins freely, even though the shapes have flat sides. I need to work out how much that is so I can compensate for it in the computer.
-and my math is terrible...

-For my second test cut, I had to remove the wood block. I took this time to add a cr*p guard to the motor mount. The color should tell everyone what kind of container I chopped to make it.
Yes, I am padding a really weak update.

-I mentioned the mill came with a tiny vise. Now you get to see the little guy.

-The plan is to have stainless steel nuts housed in center layer of the frame. I set up another test cut...

-and my nuts don't fit!*cough* I measured the nut by the sides, but SU measures polygons by the distance between points. It's a classic case of me not paying attention, but it's good for a few nut jokes.

-The second test had better results. Because the mill bit can't cut perfect corners, I had to file the hole a tiny bit. There was no way I was going to take a file to my nuts!!!

-I added some IPS#16 gel glue to the fit to see if the edges would clear up.

 

Hey Cheaps,
I'm a loser, I can't tell what you used for the motor guard. Medicine bottle?

Can you put the HDs in from the front to avoid this issue? or move the bay forward a bit in the case?

We all know you're nutty!

 

The correct answer is - A: Medicine bottle
I'm moving the bay back one inch by losing the fan. That gives me an excuse to make an interesting fan shroud. I already need something to cover the 120x3 radiator. -especially if I use the one I bummed off Legoman666. I hear it will require some serious surgery.

 

Yay, I'm not a loser!


Shutup!

 

You are a loser, learn to live with it

 

Just blame it on Cheaps!
It really is THAT easy.

 

You are a loser. You spend too much time with the wrong crowd.
-so I guess you can blame it on me...

 

"I'm a loser baybayyyy, so why don'cha kill mayyyyyy"

 

:hides head in shame:

You know who's not a loser? That guy Langer... he apparently has a life.

I can't really blame Cheaps... though he does encourage this behavior!

 

But... but... IT'S HIS FAULT!!!!

 

-You guys...
@Perplekks - This blame me thing is turning into a campaign for you, isn't it.


-Things are going slow in both reality and the virtual world. I swiped a motherboard model from one of Scooby's Sketchup files, so if the measurements are off... It's still my fault for not checking them. The flat blue donut on the side panel is what I plan to use to mark the front edge. A top-bottom marker is still up in the air. The good news is that I can cut the I/O holes out on the mill. It clears by a tiny bit.

-Today's lunch involved milling the nut holes. That doesn't sound right - nut holes...

-Done.

-I had to cut a window pane replacement, so I figured I'd cut some other sh*t out too. I need stuff for the drive cage. I set up the guide with an engineers ruler.

-And I cut.
-and decided to mow today. The scary part is it rained ONCE last week, and the yard went f*ckadilly nuts.

-The I/O layers. My SOP is to glue these to the back panel, and cut out the holes out on the mill. -Only I have a real mill this time. There should be a lot less cleanup.

-Cut. See! I'm making progress. -Even if it's at making a pile of parts.

nut holes...

 

You like leaving little piles around, don't you?
Good to see you're making progress.

Oh and I recently saw another forum member [Kauzuul or something like that] who had "Blame it on Cheaps!" in his sig or over the avatar.