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H110i GTX Issue - Anyone else? (Closed loop cooler issue)

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by bdigital, 9 Jun 2020.

  1. bdigital

    bdigital Is re-building his PC again

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    Hi all,

    I noticed that my CPU was running hot, and after loads of troubleshooting I think that maybe the water is not flowing effectively through my closed loop.

    Basically, when I boot up the PC will idle in the low 80c and if I give the double rad in the roof of my case some firm taps the temps will suddenly drop to mid 50c, and then eventually mid 30c.

    This problem slowly comes back and requires some new 'taps' to get sorted again.

    Has anyone else experience this??

    I have re-seated the block, applied new tim, checked that the pump is running (its going at 3k RPM according to Corsair link).

    - i7 3960x at stock

    Would welcome any thoughts on this. Wondering if I may be in the market for a new closed loop cooler.

    Thank you!
     
  2. modd1uk

    modd1uk Well-Known Member

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    Air?
     
  3. The_Crapman

    The_Crapman Don't phone it's just for fun.

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    Is it fairly old? You do get coolant permeating through the tubing after a while, only tiny amounts that will evaporate off the tubes, which gradually over time will leak air into the system. Air pockets can then form preventing proper flow, your tapping will be dislodging this and getting things moving again.

    If there's a little fill port somewhere,you could try topping it up with distilled water.
     
  4. Bloody_Pete

    Bloody_Pete Technophile

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    How do you have it mounted?
     
  5. bdigital

    bdigital Is re-building his PC again

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    Its about 4 years old. Interesting about the loss of fluid, im not sure if it has fill ports? But il take a look and have a google.

    I have it mounted in the roof of my Phanteks Evo case (280mm rad with face pushing air through the rad and out of the case).
     
  6. The_Crapman

    The_Crapman Don't phone it's just for fun.

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    I think there's one under their grey cover on top of the block. Alternatively, of you're feeling brave you can unscrew the coldplate and fill from there, with the rad below and the block facing up. Probably messy either way, so definitely an out of case job.
     

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