Cooling h2o noob: Is this stuff any good?

OK, I'm seriously considering watercooling my rig. I'm a complete noob to this, here is the stuff I am considering buying:

Waterblock: The Neptune from overclockedPC

Radiator: The Blackice Prime from The Overclocking store

Pump: EHEIM 1046 from overclockedPC with this fitting kit

These hoses from overclockedPC

Is that stuff any good and is there anything I've missed out?
Also where can I get UV reactive water dye in the UK?

 

Hello? Anyone?

 

Water cooling

Hi DreX,

I C you are in the same boat as me then, (Trying to figure out which are the best bits for a water rig)

Well this is what I have found out so far........

The Neptune appears good, been waitin for some more reviews (surprised they have'nt been done by Bit-Tech, HeXus etc. British made too (Hu'rray)

For bits u could also check out http://secure.thorite.co.uk/
Water Dye, read mixed opinions on that stuff. But you should use "water wetter"
Hav a look at http://www.tekheads.co.uk/products.php?view=list&catId=20

Missed out - Fans, duct for rad, Temp probe, Res/Inline air-trap.

I found http://www.procooling.com/articles/html/unaclockers_h2o_buyers_guide_-.shtml

http://www.procooling.com/articles/html/cooling_technologies_explained4.shtml#H2OCool

http://www.voidyourwarranty.net/review/review.php3?r1=h2oguide/index.php3

http://www.slau.co.uk/slautech/articles/255

Usefull
Mat

 

Patience is a virtue my friend For a waterblock i would say go with *drum roll* DDen maze3..looks sorta the same as that one there...Black ice prime and extreme are good for compactness, but if you have a very large case i would say get a heater core. Can't go wrong with the Eheim 1046, maybe get something with a bit more gph, those hoses are OK..but they to kink very very easy, see about getting tygon hoses. Hope this helps

 

Thanx for the replys doods.

I didn't mention fans because I already have plenty here, and the Black ice has montings on it for a 120mm fan, so that negates the need for ducting.

I forgot to mention that I was getting some 'water wetter', I also need to use distilled water right?

Do I really need a res/air trap? If so can anyone recommend a smallish one as all this stuff will be fitted to my modded mid-tower AVGS Cyber-Fusion:



As you can see, not a massive case, that's why I've gone for the Black Ice.

 

Nice case guy..distilled/deionized water is a must, and water wetter too. You dont need a res/airtrap but bleeding the air out of the system is a pain! I tried it first with my system and could never get all the air pockets out (im such a noob lol). You can make an airtrap, just make sure its the highest point of your h2o system. Look at my case if you need some ideas on an airtrap.

 

Thanks for the help scopE, I saw your case before, looks fecking sweet man!!

 

I'vve read up about the fans for a rad, best to have it about an inch away/off the rad........pullin air through! (Push/Pull also used alot)

These cought my eye http://www.pclincs.co.uk//acatalog/PCLincs_Online_Store_Fan_Guards__Filters___Gaskets_28.html ya can get em at RS too.
U could use some antivibration mounts for your pump too.

Oooh by the Way Neat lookin Gear Both ScopE and DreX, Ta for Pics.

 

*bows to you* Those rubber grill things look nice...interesting..I used rubber washers from home depot to separate the fan and the rad..Keep us updated on your setup

 

I'll be using push/pull, because I'll be mounting the rad behind the 2 80mm fans in the front of my case, and a 120mm behind the rad. I'll mount the 120mm fan about an inch away from the rad like you recommend. I'm going to 7v all my fans aswell. Thanks for the link, those gaskets will come in handy!!!!

I'll keep you updated when I get my stuff, I'm still in the research stage at the moment

Again, thanks for the help d00ds

 

Another good UK site http://www.modding.net/review.asp?ReviewID=13

How about a shroad template

 

Nice 1 M8

 

everything looks in order....u might wanna try a bi2 or bix instead of the prime (for better cooling capacity) and with the tubing that looks like vinyl...vinyl = satan tubing..... tygon = bad azz tubing only problem is i dunno where u can get it in uk...u could also look for some silicone tubin

 

Hi,

One of the great things about rads is that they do not care if the air is pulled or pushed as long as it is there. The inch business is importance as it lessessen noice and improves airflow, the shoud is the best option of the lot.

PCLincs do UV dylite as well as it is where I got mine - they do purple ices as well.

The neptune looks nice and overclockpc do know what they are doing so it is likely to work well. I gather they are also trying to get some tygon. If not its £130 a roll!!!.

The maze 3 is a very safe bet as DD have a long history of blocks and if you get the 3-1 it comes with cold plate incase you get into peltiers in the future.

The 1046 will handle your sytem fine. The 1250 is great because it pushes 1200l/p/h, but the more powerful pumps do have drawbacks like heat, waterflow through rad too high, backpressure etc. It is a matter of balance when it comes to an end and what your future plans are. If you might get blocks for chipsets etc in the future then get the 1250 now.

 

well i dunno if im just confused by what titch said or hes just wrong but it does matter which way ur push/pull air threw on some radiators....their like heat sinks some like to be sucked others liked to be blown......also with the shroud, it will increase preformence sense all fans have a dead spot (right where the motor is) that way u get full cfm blowing through all the radiator.....

 

No Haddy, shrouding is very important as it chanels the air through the rad and it creates that lovely sweet spot.

However, you cannot compare a radiator with a heatsink. Some heatsinks are designed for air flow in a particular direction, but rads are not. They are designed to have air go through them and nothing more. The direction to them makes no difference. It could be said that the air blowing on the body of the rad might help as well, but that is questionable. The good channelled air flow is vital, which direction is not.

Read the rad article on overclockers.com again as he found no difference on all types that he tested.

 

Just a couple of questions, on an Aussy forum someone made specific mention too have the fans sucking the air, is there any reason he'd say that ? Maybe its easier too keep more preasure with sucking it past rather than blowing it into the rad and possible having air 'bouncing' back or slowed down reducing the performance ?

and second, the pic i saw of the Maze 3-1 looked as tho the cold plate was held on with a longer screw going right through the actual block and into the cold plate, if thats the case then wouldnt it stop you using the water block unless you had the cold plate which would mean you'd need the peltier between them ?

 

To stop the bouncing of air is why you need to possition your fans 1" away. It is the turbulance from the fans that cause this.

One of the very real problems with this issue is that there has only been one very conclusive set of tests done (to my knowlege) and the rest is pure suposition by all parties. However, the rad based on heater core do have air blowing or sucking from model to model and therefore designed for either.

As to the maze 3. All you need to do is screw the mounting bolts in further if there is no coldplate. Unlike the swiftech which has different bolts depending on whether you have the coldplate or not.

 

is the bix in their tests? cause i know for a fact it droped my temps 3c by switching it from blow to suck.....hs are just like radiators except that a radiator has the air go straight threw it....

 

How, do you measure your temps Haddy.....

Heatsinks and radiators are not comparable. A lot of though goes into efficient chanelling and air flow in good modern heatsinks. In radiators, it just goes through, the cleaver bit is how the water is chanelled etc.

Lastly, as I stated it is yet another issue in watercooling which has not been fully tested. One recorded testing is not enough. Therefore my answer is guestimate based on the original use for the design. Testing on your own individual setup will be the only way to get a accurate assessment for you.