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Motors Help GOO replace the Frogmobile

Discussion in 'General' started by GreatOldOne, 21 Jul 2010.

  1. GreatOldOne

    GreatOldOne Wannabe Martian

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    Guys,

    I'm looking to replace the bag'o'crap that is our Laguna. I have been offered an X-Reg Mk IV Golf 1.6 (Yep, I'm that desperate to get rid of the frogmobile that I'm looking at older cars to replace it).

    Thoughts on the Golf -

    What should I be looking out for when I go to look at it?
    Any common problem or issues with them?
    Real world experiences?

    It's done 65K, and has had two owners from new. Full VW SH.

    Ta

    GOO
     
  2. PBear23

    PBear23 New Member

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    I've got a Golf Mk IV 2.0 GTI and its great. Love driving it, reliable, efficient (35mpg).

    Can get two mountain bikes inside it (seats down), has done 109K,. Servicing is cheap as are parts.

    Often think of changing it but, for what I use it for there isn't anything else out there that could better it until I look at spending some decent cash on a car.

    Not had experience with the 1.6, but overall the golf is a solid car.
     
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  3. shigllgetcha

    shigllgetcha Come at me bro

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    sounds good. my sistre has a 1.4 mkiv and shes happy with it

    65k is pretty low in terms of how far theyll go
     
  4. Da_Rude_Baboon

    Da_Rude_Baboon What the?

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    03 MK IV Golf GT TDI.

    Mechanically its been fine but random bits of the interior have fallen off, the glove box outer lid and the ash tray cover. The rear boot lock motor also stopped working as the solder perishes but these are all known faults and there is loads of guides on how to fix them on the various VW forums. Its a very easy car to drive, although i don't find it an involving or inspiring thing to drive, but then that's what the Gooster (or my STI) is for. Parts and servicing have been cheap from our local independent VW specialist. The official dealership were the normal horrendous prices. For example they wanted to charge us £80 to run the vagcom diagnostic to tell us boot lock wasn't working. How the vagcom can magically tell the difference between a faulty lock motor and the solder tags falling i have no idea.

    I know its not a TDI your looking at but i average around 50-55mpg on the daily commute (~60 mile round trip) and even if you thrash it you'll still comfortably be in the 40mpg range. It's rubbish in stop start traffic as it has so much torque you cant cruise slowly in first with the engine idling so your constantly in and out with the clutch which gets tiring. I used to hate the car (downgrade from a Type-R) but i found a new appreciation for it over the winter time as it just kept on going and would plough through flooded roads and deep snow no problems at all. As a reliable, easy to drive family commuter car it is very good.
     
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  5. PureSilver

    PureSilver E-tailer Tailor

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    Solid car, but dull. Stodgy's probably the word; essentially the problem being that it's quite flabby for a medium-sized hatch. I don't own one, but I've driven a few and know several owners. There's a reason that all second-hand guides recommend Golfs - reliability and build quality - and the Mk.IV is no exception. Just don't expect it to be any fun to drive.
     
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  6. smc8788

    smc8788 ...at least I have chicken

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    And because they're so often recommended it means they're more sought after, and so generally more expensive than similar cars like a Focus or Mazda 3 or something.

    I'd also be reluctant to trade "up" for an older car. I know Golfs in general are reliable but a newer car with higher mileage is often better than an older car with lower mileage.
     
  7. okenobi

    okenobi New Member

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    All of the above is true. However, the 1.6 is a crap unit (and I'm not just talking about speed).

    At 65k, you're about to hit the niggle stage of it's life. Most of the electrical and plasticky problems present between around 80k and 100k. Buy over that and a FSH, looked-after example is a good buy. Before that and you could be potentially buying just before the most costly and annoying part of its life.

    That's all relative though, it should be less trouble than most. I'm never concerned about age in and of itself, but X is early for a IV and that does concern me, they got better not long after that.

    I will of course be far better put together than your Laguna and not have the stupid keyless problem either. But I think there could be better choices (even if you decide on a IV as a rule).

    Just my 2p though.
     
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  8. GreatOldOne

    GreatOldOne Wannabe Martian

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    Thanks so far! :thumb:

    It's been offered to me for £1800. Good, Bad or don't rightly know? ;)
     
  9. Krikkit

    Krikkit All glory to the hypnotoad! Super Moderator

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    Autotrader is a good guide for that kind of thing, and it looks like a good deal to me. :)
     
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  10. oasked

    oasked Stuck in the Mud

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    It'll be a bit of a slow coach with the 1.6, but if you rev it enough it'll do.
     
  11. 13eightyfour

    13eightyfour Formerly Titanium Angel

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    Im yet to experience the 'legendary' VW reliability my bora is the most unreliable car ive ever had, when it works though its great. (im starting to feel like an alfa owner tbh)

    Main dealer servicing can be quite expensive, my last service was £300. The good thing about VW is that there are loads of forums, with some really knowledgeable people and plenty of specialist garages for them.

    At £1800 it doesnt sound expensive but doesnt sound cheap either imo. If i was going for a golf id probably want a tdi, i dont think a 1.6 would have enough go for me.
     
  12. Behemoth

    Behemoth Timelord in training

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    I took one of those out for a test drive a few years a go. It was comfortable, it was pretty spacious. It handled the road well. But the 1.6 petrol is dog slow. You've got to be reving it like a complete and utter loon to get anything out of it.

    That said, it's better than the french thing you've got now !
     
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  13. okenobi

    okenobi New Member

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    Indeed.

    As for the price, middleish tbh. Not cheap, not expensive. You could get a billy basic 90bhp derv for not much more. A decent derv is still £3k plus easily.
     
  14. GreatOldOne

    GreatOldOne Wannabe Martian

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    So, a no to 1.6 then? Which TDi - I believe there are several engine sizes to choose from.
     
  15. xAx

    xAx New Member

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    From what I remember the mark IV only has the 1.9tdi which comes in either 135ps or 155ps, and the 135 was ment to be the more reliable one.

    Still, it's all about the mark II really.
     
  16. okenobi

    okenobi New Member

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    It's not an automatic no. That's got to be up to you. I wouldn't, and it seems that most everybody else who's posted wouldn't either. My brothers a VAG tech, and a lot fo my friends are into it. I've driven most of the engines and seen/heard most of the problems.

    For derv your options are:

    90ps
    110ps
    up to around 2001, then
    110ps
    115ps (6speed)
    130ps (6speed)
    150ps (6speed)
    then later still
    100ps
    105ps
    130ps
    150ps

    For cheapness and to buy one at around 100k that should've had most of the kinks worked out, I would go with either the 90 or the 110. Same lump, but the 110 has a a different map. Their both essentially the same as the MK3 unit but with variable vein turbos which give good performance across the power band and good economy.

    The 115/130 are PD units and are quicker, but less economical and more expensive. I would avoid the 115 if it's an early one 2001-2 because they had a lot of issues.

    The 150 has an FMIC and is very quick for a derv, but extremely expensive to find a good one.

    The 130 gives the best compromise of the later units and was widely used across Skoda, Seat and Audi and is perfectly capable of pulling Passat wagons and A4s, so nippy enough in a Golf.

    At your price range, you will be flooded with 115s and that's ok provided they're not 2000/early 01 and they've had everything done.

    Dual mass flywheels and clutch often into the second 100k
    Electrical issues, specifically central locking and window regulators
    Anti-roll bar bushes

    These are the main things. If it's got ANY rust at all, it's been knocked. They don't rust without because they have galvanised panels.

    Here's an example of a billy basic 90ps:
    http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1826855.htm
     
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  17. GreatOldOne

    GreatOldOne Wannabe Martian

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    Thank you for such an in depth response. Have some rep. :)

    I'd also like to point out that this is / will be MrsGoo's commuter car. Not mine. No one's taking my Jag away from me. ;)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 22 Jul 2010
  18. Krikkit

    Krikkit All glory to the hypnotoad! Super Moderator

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    If you're going for a TDi, the available engines for them are listed here. Found one on autotrader but thanks to their abysmal site it's not easy to share a link... :hehe:

    Have a look on the seller's website directly, first page. :)
     
  19. Kuni D

    Kuni D New Member

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    I had a MkIV 1.6 SE for 3 or so years and loved it. The engine was good imo (like with all engines, depends how they've been worn in).

    I have since replaced it with a MkV 2.0 TDI, although that was mostly down to milleage I do.
     
  20. okenobi

    okenobi New Member

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    Thanks. If it's for commuting. That even more firms up my assertion that a 90/110 is what you're looking for. They cope better with shorter journeys and cold starts than the NA petrols and will be more forgiving on the wallet. Whilst offering plenty enough go for commuting.

    S spec is basic, avoid unless it's mint and you're happy with that.
    SE is more comfortable and often has manual air and nicer seats
    Sport will likely have been ragged in your price range and I would be careful. Also the suspension is harder, but not much better.

    A cheap 90 or 110 with some spec, in good condition should be around £2200-2700 and will be well worth hanging out for if you can.
     

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