As title, maybe a picture will help explain... its the left pedal so its clockwise i have to turn it. at least i hope so, after some googling before i started this is what i found out. and i got my pedal off my other bike the same way. but no matter how hard i try. it just wont budge. any tips?
Just remember always turn to the rear of the bike to take off a pedal. WD40 and LEVERAGE, lots of leverage is the key. Just put a long rod onto the wrench and your set. If it doesn't work just bring it to a bike shop and let them whip it off. A decent shop wont charge you for it.
i shall get some wd40 tomorrow and give that a try, if not though, its a 1 hour ride to a bike shop, quite a way with one peda
I had this problem a couple of weeks ago. The first one came off without a hitch. The second one... The WD-40 - it did nothing. I broke (read: deformed and mangled) the pedal spanner I had to hand, to no avail. (Not, I admit, as upmarket a model as yours) I ended up buying a proper 15mm spanner and (as it'd take more than my bodyweight to break this one) stood on it to break the lock.
lol. mine is bending and about to go. all my spare and useless bikes, the pedals came off easy, the bike i want a pedal on, it wont budge
That look's more like a cone spanner. Have you it the opposite way, sometimes tightening it on a bit will just crack a sticky thread then its easier to undo. If not lay the bike down (bust pedal to the floor) and spray lube into the back of the thread and leave it to soak. Other than that (if you have the tools (a crank puller)), take the crank arm off, strip the pedal back to the axel, hold the axel in a vice and turn the crank, if you dont have the tools your going to have to turn the whole bike.
yea its a cone spanner, i just looked on ebay for something, found the pedal ones, but they where costly, so i found that for £5. guess that call may come back to haunt me, so i think im going need something better? i dont know what a cone spanner is though? XD
Letting WD40 soak in overnight is a great start. You can also try heating the crank to around ~60c+ (remove it from the bike first!) using a heatgun if you have one, or hold it above the gas flame of an oven. Heat it at the end away from the pedal, and wear heat resistant gloves/oven mitts. You could even try immediately after heating, dipping the pedal into a cup of lukewarm water, then into a cup of ice water, then try to loosen the bugger -this might not make any difference though, with all the low surface area greased joints in a pedal.
'Drop forged' or 'Chrome Vanadium' are good phrases to look for. I got mine (CrVn) from B&Q. ~£5. And why are single spanners so hard to find, anyway?
Really not designed for removing pedals mate, it will just bend because they are so thin. But yeah as mvagusta said "put some heat on it" (lol, thats a famous quote from the bike shop I work in, if ever there is a problem the owner shouts "put some heat on it").
i will look form some better tools tomorrow. the only place for the cone spanner now, is the bin . I don't have any way to get the crank off. so i think buying the proper tools for the job is my only option. thank for all your help, i will let you know how it goes? XD
Definately get yourself a set of decent spanners. The last time I did anything on my bikes I was changing a set of old pedals and I just used a regular snap-on spanner and plenty of elbow grease. Yours will come off with enough penetrating oil and force. Chances are it's seized a little and just being stubborn
1. SOAK with some suitable oil 2. Add leverage 3. YANK the **** out of it Jipa's three easy steps into seeing what gives first Might be the pedal, might be the spanner.. even the extra shaft! It's always so entertaining, especially when you're not doing it yourself. Oh and I bought myself a set of spanners when I was fixing my bike some years ago... It was a cheap set, but so far nothing's given up. The only prob being that there were two of identical ones includes, when they were supposed to have 13 at one end and 12 in other (open/closed thing, whatchmacallit)
All of the advice said so far is spot on. To add my decade of experience to the plate: fire. I honestly don't remember how many pedals/cranks I've had to pull off that have been rusted (read: welded) in place, but I assure you it has been rather a few. Anyway, best method I've found is to keep a blow-torch on the crank shaft (away from the pedal shaft) to very quickly heat the crank, without heating the pedal shaft. This causes the metal to expand away from the pedal shaft, and allow you to very quickly, and easily remove the pedal. Only issue is that you might remove the threads from the crank at the same time, which is a real threat considering the poor quality of crank arm you're working with. Even soaking the thing in heavy penetrating oil (HAS TO BE labeled as penetrating oil, or it won't do anything) over-night might cause the same result. And yes, do try getting a proper pedal-wrench, along with a nice cheater-bar (doesn't matter what it is; at my shop we use a down-tube from an old frame we mutilated).
^^ what all them guys + While the WD40 is soaking - move the bike about. Upside down . Standing on rear wheel, etc. It also helps to tap on the pedal with a hammer to vibrate the WD40 inside more. Good Luck john
Yeah, I always laugh a little bit when ever I use a hammer, my shop teacher always called a hammer "the motivator" or I think of MC hammer "STOP, hammer time dun num nun nun, can't touch this"
