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Guide Home made DDC pump top

Discussion in 'Modding' started by Cheapskate, 26 Dec 2008.

  1. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    I'll leave some mystery for you to make this more interesting. You need to research your own measurements.;)
    -Also I don't want to get anyone in trouble.:worried:
    [​IMG]
    -First, I marked out a chunk of 1/2" plexiglas. The center point is critical for the measurements, so I drilled it out with a tiny drill bit.
    [​IMG]
    -I drilled the mounting holes first. These are also critical. The stuff I'm most likely to screw up gets done first. I will be using 8-32 screws in these holes.
    If the holes line up with the stock top holes, you can continue...
    [​IMG]
    -This is my weapon of choice for this project. A basic drill press with a cross-slide vice. (Ignore the faucet and paint roller.) The squirt bottle is for applying water while drilling. The holes come out much cleaner if you keep the bit cool and wet.
    [​IMG]
    -For the impeller well I will use a rotary table. This part can also be done with a plunge router or a dremel with a router attachment. It can also be done by boring out the area with a mill bit on a drill press until you have the circular well. It can also be done with a spade bit with good results.
    [​IMG]
    -I had some troubles with clamping. It took forever to get the bolts where I could clear.
    [​IMG]
    -I'm using a 1/4" mill bit here. On each full rotation of the table, I cut away about 1mm of plastic.
    [​IMG]
    -2nd cut...
    [​IMG]
    -The 3rd cut shows me I'm a little off center. The material moved a bit during the clamping. It shouldn't be enough to be a problem.
    [​IMG]
    -I'm using a 1/4" layer to route the intake channel to the front. With this technique, I can send the water anywhere I want. I could do funky patterns, or even manifold multiple pumps and ports. My plan for this top is to get as lean a possible. My last pump top was a softball-sized monstrosity.:D
    [​IMG]
    -I cut, sanded, and polished the inner walls of the channel before I glued it down. I'm leaving the edges rough and oversized for now. The inside parts have to be cleaned up while you still have access to them.
    [​IMG]
    -Drilling the exhaust port is the really tricky part. First you need to mark out a 1/4" path out to the front. Make sure to mark the center of this path too. You clamp the block in the vice with these lines 90 degrees to the vice. The vice base needs to be positioned on the table square.
    [​IMG]
    -To work out the drill position, you need to mark the center line along the front of the block. The line where the center point touches the impeller well hole need to be traced around the block parallel to the top of the vice. On the side of the block the center line of the hole needs to be marked where it will enter the impeller well hole.(?) OK, to simplify that: If the well is 5/16" deep, the center point should be 3/16" from the bottom of the block.
    Loosen the table-tilt bolt and position the block so that the bit lines up with the mark on the side, and the angle is enough that the bit will enter near the middle of the top of the block.
    Whew! words...
     
    Last edited: 5 Jan 2018
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  2. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    [​IMG]
    -Here's a better shot of those marks. I used a small, straight bit to line up, the replaced it with a 1/4" bit to drill.
    [​IMG]
    -I used the mill bit to flatten out the starting point. This keeps the drill bit from sliding off the uneven surface.
    [​IMG]
    -I drilled, (with lots of water added,) until the bit barely exited the block. You don't want to go much further here because you could either chip, or cut through the bottom of the well wall. Remember: That edge is important because the gasket has to seal there.
    [​IMG]
    -To finish out the hole I used a dremel with this bit.
    [​IMG]
    -It should look kind of like this when done. I finished the hole out with lots of rolled up 150 grit sandpaper and matchsticks. The holes can also be buffed out with Comet cleanser on Q-tips and felt.
    [​IMG]
    -I drilled out the intake port. I put wood under the area to be cut to avoid chipping.
    [​IMG]
    -Once I had the intake area clean and shiny, I glued a layer of 1/8" plexi on top.
    [​IMG]
    -I milled the face flat so that a plate with the barb taps could be added. I also drilled the area around both ports out so they would line up with the barb holes. (I didn't take pics of that. Sorry.) I also sanded this face down with 150 grit sandpaper on a flat surface.
    [​IMG]
    -I used another bit of 1/2" for the barb mount. Here I'm drilling 7/16" holes.
    [​IMG]
    -This is my g1/4 pipe tap kit. The 6-point 1/2" socket fits over the back of the tap, and the broken socket extension fits in the drill press.
    Edit: I have finally broke down and purchased a proper 1/4" BSPP pipe tap that is more compatible with G1/4. I must say it is much simpler than having to custom-fit with a tapered tap.
    [​IMG]
    -I use the drill press to get the tap started perfectly straight. (You have to hand turn the press here.)
    [​IMG]
    -I finish up with a wrench. You can damage the drill press if you try to tap the whole thing with it. I have the tap marked where I need to stop roughly. From there I use a self-sealing barb to test fit until I have the seat right.
    [​IMG]
    -When done tapping, you can glue the new face together. I forgot to flip my faceplate over before tapping, and the holes don't line up right because of that.:duh:
    [​IMG]
    -I finished drilling out the mount holes and tapped them for 8-32 screws.
    [​IMG]
    -I squared the edges with a mill bit. Later I sanded everything down with 150 grit, then 240 grit, 400, 600, then polished.
    And it should look like this...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    -Er.. I mean like this...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    -You can see here I got carried away while tapping. This is what happens if you don't clear the cut material out of the bit frequently. Yuck!
    [​IMG]
    -You can see crazing here inside the intake channel. It's something that happens when you use the slosh and combine gluing technique. It shouldn't show much when the channel gets wet.

    Enjoy.:D
     
    Last edited: 5 Jan 2018
    mvagusta likes this.
  3. dan-ere-07

    dan-ere-07 What's a Dremel?

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    wow that looks amazing :thumb: well made.
    that makes me wish i had a mill :sigh:
     
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  4. Javerh

    Javerh Topiary Golem

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    Pure genius! :eeek:
     
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  5. Dark~3nergy

    Dark~3nergy what was dat sandvich ?

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    very nice !
    have you tested it yet ?

    I wish I could make things like that with my mill :(
     
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  6. jhanlon303

    jhanlon303 The Keeper of History

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    This is very nice:jawdrop::jawdrop:

    john
     
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  7. bentleya

    bentleya Lian Li Snail :)

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    Nice work cheaps :)

    i want a mill :(
     
  8. ModMinded

    ModMinded Are you throwing that away?

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    Excellent Guide Cheaps! Thanks for taking the time to document and clear it up. It turned out great, though I would have liked a bit more color to it. Can you show what it looks like with the pump on it?

    ps - Styling safety glasses, my friend! :D
     
  9. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Thanks everyone. Let me know if anything needs cleared up. It's a guide after all.
    @Dan-ere-07, Bentleya - Quiet! I want a mill too!!
    @Dark - It must be broke. Send it to me.
    @Dark & ModMinded - I can't do that because I don't have a spare pump for it.
    @MMinded - The lack of color and frills is because I don't have the case it would go into even planned yet. I'm thinking someday I'll chop the legs of a DDC base, add black vertical louvers on this top, and use those to mount it somehow. The idea is to have the base inset into the top and hidden.
    -The glasses were free. Them's the best kind!:hehe:


    Before anyone asks...
    Cross slide vice
    My rotary table (Seems to cost a lot more now...)
    a cheap rotary table -Those b*stards...:grrr:
    Cheap mill bits
     
    Last edited: 27 Dec 2008
  10. jhanlon303

    jhanlon303 The Keeper of History

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    So, all of this was done with a drill press like I have in the basement and the 'treasure' cross slide from the other logs?
    No mill? Just impressive.:rock::clap:

    If you don't mind me asking - how much time/how many hours was involved in making this cool top?

    john
     
  11. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    I didn't keep track. I spent two days on it, but it was like, surf, chop, buy groceries, chop, eat, chop. do laundry, chop... I was wound really tight this week.
     
  12. bentleya

    bentleya Lian Li Snail :)

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    thansk for them links cheaps :)
     
  13. NysoO

    NysoO Handcrafted

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    Nicely done cheap. Looks cool :)
     
  14. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Thanks.:D
     
  15. Rocket733

    Rocket733 Austerity - It's the only way

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    Was it you or ell that already killed the bearings in their drill press from milling?
     
  16. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    It was me. I blame the copper I tried to mill. It still works OK for light stuff like this. The press can't screw up making a flat surface, and I can get a really clean wall on the impeller well if I go around the finishing pass really slow.
     
  17. jhanlon303

    jhanlon303 The Keeper of History

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    Being in need of some new H2O stuff, I've been looking around at vendor's stuff.
    I must applaud your efforts. To spend 2 days making a part that is readily available from mail order and making it better is the sign of a real modder.

    Well done.

    john
     
  18. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    :hehe: Thanks.
     
  19. bentleya

    bentleya Lian Li Snail :)

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    cheaps we all need mills, bit-tech should do a compo to win one :) ahaha
     
  20. dan-ere-07

    dan-ere-07 What's a Dremel?

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    i agree =]
    just aslong as you dont need to mill something to win lol
     

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