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Modding Homemade watercooling (everything)

Discussion in 'Modding' started by clayten, 22 Aug 2008.

  1. clayten

    clayten New Member

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    microscopical extrusions ?? Lol

    I asked about this earlier,:read:
    and
    Cause i read this article http://www.xtremesystems.org/FORUMS/showthread.php?t=54331 wich describes the 2 differant types of CPU waterblocks;-

    Impingent
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and

    Non-Impingement
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The blocks I make will be ALOT better than some of the other DIY/Homemade blocks that I've seen on the web, I will constantly monitor the temps at load and idle the first couple of runs, and because its all Bolted and screwed together, I could easily change the Impingents if cooling is insufissiant.



    If homemade blocks as ugly as this, work better than air cooling,, Then yes biebiep I am a bit... well... optimistic. LOL:hehe:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. clayten

    clayten New Member

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    Got all the copper and bits and pieces today, so will start working on the radiator tomorrow.
     
  3. liratheal

    liratheal Sharing is Caring

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    I'm looking forward to seeing what happens with your home made blocks.

    I've not seen all that many that haven't been part of a mod to the point where they're skimmed over. It's nice to see an in depth worklog on the water cooling loop alone.
     
  4. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    What are you soldering your block bases together with? Lead based solder? Because imo it wont be very thermally efficient with (8 did you say?) layers of copper sandwiched together with lead solder in between... I know the bottom layer thats in contact with the cpu die/ heatspreader will be in direct contact with the waterflow but i think the block would berform better if made as a single, solid piece of copper. Less chance of leaks too!
     
  5. biebiep

    biebiep New Member

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    Alright, but you've shown me GPU/Chipset/mosfet blocks...


    Although i know those custom made Stinger V8's function superbly... I haven't seen their internals yet...

    This is what i meant with small extrusions
    http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g271/gnrfan229/base-plate-pin-matrix.jpg
    This IS coming directly from a CPU high performance block and those are quite different from Chipset blocks due to a very big difference in where the heat is concentrated and where it is most easily dispersed.

    If your S-shape MISSES the CPU-cores or has a bad heat transfer just above the dies, you are going to get hampered/poor performance.
    Chipsets are large heat generating blocks, so are GPU cores and mosfets.
    CPU's have focused heat sources under their heatspreaders (especially 45nm ones) and don't even get me started about trying to nail the dies correctly on a quad
     
    Last edited: 30 Aug 2008
  6. clayten

    clayten New Member

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    Sorry for long overdue update

    UPDATE

    Sorry that I havnt been updating my progress rugularly, its just been long tedious repetitive jobs.
    I got the 15mm ID copper pipe and cut it into 24 X 14cm lengths, things really sped up when I got a pipe cutter! I marked out my cut lines on the 0.9mm copper sheet in (15X15cm)x 25 squares. The sheet was straight from the factory, and had mirror finish, it shone in the african sun like
    GOLD

    [​IMG]
    http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/7737/30082008694hh5.jpg

    with all the 4 edges inline I marked out my holes and drilled 5 out of the 25. 2 to keep it inline, 2 to screw it together, and the big centre one for the CCFL.

    [​IMG]
    http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/9267/30082008695pq2.jpg

    After it was screwed together tightly, so the sheets dont shift, I drilled out the holes.

    [​IMG]
    http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/619/31082008701am7.jpg

    I used a 15mm hole saw, I wanted to get a drill, but was unable to find one so big. The hole saw's holes were untidy, but I rounded them with a rat tail file.

    [​IMG]
    http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/4564/31082008702tu5.jpg

    I then laid them all out, straightened, them filed them, polished them, strightened some more and polished ALOT more! Look how they shine in the sun:lol:

    [​IMG]
    http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/118/03092008706qn9.jpg

    Then sprayed with clear coat-gloss.

    [​IMG]
    http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/42/03092008705na5.jpg
     
  7. clayten

    clayten New Member

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    Update

    UPDATE

    To keep the radiator fins in contact with the tubes, and to keep the fins equidistant, and parralell; I cut 4mm spacers out of the 15mm pipe with the pipe cutter, then I snipped each one and pulled it over the tube. There was ALOT!!!! 25 fins X 24 pipes, spacer inbetween each, and on the ends = 600!!! I'll solder these into place later, i'm not looking forward to it.
    [​IMG]
    http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/3420/05092008707hd0.jpg

    I soldered the end caps into place to stop the fins from sliding, then I needed to put it all together, so I can line up the mounting bracket holes. I also tested bending plastic pipe, with a coil on the inside with copper earth wire. Also cut out a template for the fan shroud. The 120mm Akasa Amber fan will sit approx 2cm away.

    After I've dissasembled it, marked out mounting brackets, then solder mounting brackets, then put it all together again, soldering each and every single spacer- all 600 of them:wallbash: this is what the finall build should look like...


    THEN--The Fun Part :dremel:.................

    [​IMG]
    http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/219/07092008708hl7.jpg

    [​IMG]
    http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/8600/07092008709ob0.jpg

    [​IMG]
    http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/7513/07092008710fi3.jpg

    [​IMG]
    http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2958/07092008711yw0.jpg
     
  8. bwuggley5

    bwuggley5 New Member

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    Hi,
    "I also tested bending plastic pipe, with a coil on the inside with copper earth wire."
    I like the plastic tube idea for the bends.The copper bends cost around NZ$3 here.
    Also I like the flowmeter idea you have.
     
  9. bullseye969

    bullseye969 New Member

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    Interesting to see how this turns out <3
     
  10. ModMinded

    ModMinded Are you throwing that away?

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    cool project!

    Hey Clayten,
    This is a great project and I'll be keeping my eyes on it. I wish I could contribute realworld knowledge, but I haven't gotten involved in water cooling myself (partly due to expense, partly due to not ocing.)

    I'm sure you've seen this article already, but if you haven't you should check it out. I've linked the page regarding the boundary level and laminar flow (http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2007/08/22/watercooling_101/6) which I think may be an issue with the design of the blocks you've shown so far.

    There was another one I saw on designing blocks that I'll try and find again for you, but it seems that you shouldn't use smooth plates for the whole block, but rather have something that increases the turbulence over internal "microscopial extrusions".
    found it.
    http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008/01/28/watercooling_201_understanding_waterblocks/1


    OOPs- re-read your original post:
    "The blocks inside will be 15mm all the way through, but should I make the inside rough, so that I get more surface area or smooth, so that I get faster flow?

    The blocks will all be made out of 2mm copper sheet squares with 'S's cut into them. I'll "sandwich" solder 8 squares together then a blank one at the bottom for the base, and a piece of 10mm perspex on the top with 15mm barb connectors screwed in."

    I think the S shape is the best of those u put up, and wouldn't worry too much about the smoothness inside (since the molecules will bond to even the smoothest of sides) but I'm sure you'd like it to look good, since you'll have the clear top.

    Good luck and keep us posted!
     
    Last edited: 10 Sep 2008
  11. Thacrudd

    Thacrudd Where's the any key?!?

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    MOAR! Can't wait man, Great work.
     
  12. clayten

    clayten New Member

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    Hi all, sorry I havn't been on for a while, but the truth is I've been working offshore for the past couple of weeks.

    I did manage to start on my CPU block, I cut out the square copper sheets, glued them all together with thermal glue; but as soon as I started drilling out the 'S's, the square copper sheets started to come apart. Tried differant glues and compounds, but nothing works. (will post pics of my failed attempt)

    So I guess I'll have to use just 1 huge block, I'll drill through the sides, and then cap off the end holes that I dont need.
     

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