Motors How do you know if you need an oil change?

My cars sounding a little noisier than usual, lately, and I don't know when the last oil change was and when I bought it (last Nov) the mechanic mentioned "it could probably do with an oil change sometime" whilst rubbing the dip stick between his fingers which I thought was about as unexact-a-statement as you could get tbh. Im wondering if they are related and should I change the filter as well? Im checking the air intake this w/e cause god knows how long that's been in there as well. Is it something to do with consistency of the oil? Bits in it? Is it worth going branded or just halfords own will do for an 11 yr old Clio?

Also, changing gears has become like wrestling a bear, which I assume is potentially terminal for the gearbox? (it wont go into reverse, first or third properly, and it wont come out of second, sometimes, but fourth is fine though).

I dont particuarly want to **** up since I do a lot of miles in it and need to be at work on Monday. Risk leaving it til MOT in Nov?

 

There isn't really a good time to change oil, just when you feel its needs it.
For example, my best mate changes it in his about every 3-4 months - with posh posh stuff.
Personally, I'd say thats a bit too common
If your doing the oil properly. (Meaning draining the sump, and refilling with new.)

Then its worth changing the oil filter, if you ignore this, your just contaminating the new oil really
They are only about £8 from halfords. Not hard to change will your doing it either.

Branded or Halfords? Its up to you, both will work. But if you love your car, you wouldn't disgrace it with halfords stuff

Air filter you can take out and physically look at, if it looks like it needs changing change it.


Not sure about gearbox sorry! Might need that looking at.

 

Yea I was gonna do it properly (sump drain & change) and the airfilter is just 3 bolts which is easy, I know how to do that I checked if Halfords had any last time I was there any typically my car was the only one they didnt have in stock

When I feel it needs it? Ok, so, uh, never then. Is this some magical telepathic ability Ive yet to gain as a car owner??

 

If I wasn't sure of when the last change was I'd change the oil and filter to be on the safe side. Its not going to do any harm

The owners or Haynes manual should state the recommended mileage/time between changes. My Mini was IIRC 3000 miles between changes, no doubt a Clio would be a bit more than that

Change it when the engines warm and make sure you have a container big enough! Having plenty of rags handy is also useful...

 

If last Nov the mechanic mentioned it could probably do with an oil change, and you drive it almost every day I would say it could definetly do with an oil change now. I personly put any semi-decent synthetic oil that is close but slightly thicker than my manufactureres specs because my car is fairly old and my engine is almot as old.

EDIT: Always change the oilfilter when changing oil, its worth the extra couple of dollers or pounds or what have you.

 

Ok here is the deal... Change oil every 3000 miles or 3 months which ever is first....If you drive an older car DONOT put synthetic oil...it will clean the engine up and the crud that is holding your seals in place will move and it will leak...If you wish to add a oil treatment such as STP or Lucas Oil Stabilizer, replace one quart of oil with it or litre depending how you do it. You must change the oil filter with the oil, if you dont you might as well not have changed the oil. It is also recommended that you change you air filter and rotate tires or tyres every oil change.

ohh btw i am a certified BMW mechanic and have my ASE a1-a8 Master Tech.

 

i change my oil every multiple of 5000 miles. right now its at 324,044.1 miles, i will be changing the oil in about 956 miles.

(thats right, i have enough miles to drive to the moon and halfway back! i left it outside for a week in the worst part of the year here, where it is freezing cold at night and 100+ in the day and it started with less than a half second of cranking.)

 

anyone else thinking syncromesh for the gearbox problems?

rotating the tyres is stupid since you end up with 5 bald knackered tyres rather than just the one.

and do BMW recommend an oil treatment(I'm asking because most of them are just snake oil)

 

Fair enough then, air and oil change today

Thanks peeps. I spose I've done over 6k since getting it

 

As long as you don't have directional tyres, and ones of a different size at the rear from the front.

 

Sounds like you need a new clutch; like yesterday. My clutch recently gave out on my 95 civic with 180000 miles on it. I was driving along when BAM it was like the car hit a brick wall. Up until that point I had no problems. After that I simply could not get it to drive for more then 3 minutes at a time; I limped into the shop and they fixed it. (almost $900 )

My girlfriends car (97 saturn with 80k miles) also needed a new clutch. However she had problems with it not going into specific gears, and not coming out of them or not going in reverse etc, etc.

Personally I'd rather my clutch died like my gf's and not how mine did, by basicly locking the engine.

I was only doing 20 when it happened, but I can't imagine what could have happened had it gone at 80mph. My guess is that my car would be quite dead, and maybe even me.

 

Or a new car Clutches are expensive as hell, for what they are.

 

if the biteing point on your clutch pedal is getting nearer the floor then your clutch is gone, if not its your gearbox.
as for oil changes do it every 6 months and you wont go wrong, i do it in the spring then early autumn so the weather isnt to bad

 

Change the oil Bindi New oil is see through brown colour. Old oil is black.

I do it with a cold engine cos I don't like the idea of hot oil everywhere. It takes longer to drain when cold but 20-30 mins seems enough.

You should change the oil filter too. Also, get a new gasket for the sump plug.

It's straightforward enough,
-undo oil filler cap
-place 5L or more washing up bowl under sump
-undo sump plug and watch oil pour out into bowl for a few minutes.
-undo filter. Hopefully this can be done by hand. If not use a special tool or carefully hammer a screwdriver through it (at side, near top) to get some leverage as a last resort (messy). Clean up mating area with a clean rag.
-smear some new oil round the gasket on new filter and do up by hand till it touches the mating face, then another 3/4 turn.
-wait til oil has drained
-do up sump plug using new washer/gasket
-fill oil until it says full on the dipstick
-start engine for a few seconds to fill the oil filter
-top up again
-dispose of old oil properly and keep an eye on the oil level from time to time.

Would that cause problems taking it out of 2nd? I understand how getting it into gear is a problem but taking it out as well? Does each gear have it's own synchro?

 

Doesn't sound like syncro for the gb - i reckon it's clutch related as its on so many gears.

Withe regards to the oil change, let the car get warm, not hot, 5 mins running or so - just to thin the oil and get the most old oil out as poss.

 

Try changing the gearbox oil? I doubt it will fix your gearbox completely but if it's not been changed in a long time then it could make a big difference. I use Castrol Syntrax in mine.

 

Little 10minute drive + 20mins wait, oil is nice and warm

 

Appreciate the help loads, guys

Thankfully the French, being the extremely awkward *******s they are, decided to use a specific 8mm square bit to get the sump cap screw off. I havent got one, neighbour doesnt have one and my dad's got back from halfords just now and they only do hex or star. 20 minute job, my ass.

Ive got to rotate the tyres like you said, since one is bald on the inside which Im assuming is a balance issue. Meh. It'll wait til the MOT to sort that. And it might be the clutch, since Ive no idea when it was last changed and the last person to own it was a woman...
/runs.
Again, it can wait til MOT.

Ive not got any idea how to change the gearbox oil but it could definately use doing considering every-single-time I put it in reverse (with the clutch to the floor) it grinds.

Unsexy EDIT: Nowhere in Cardiff has what I need, now Ive got to try and source the part on the net.

 

If you have uneven wear across the tread you either have the tracking not set right (wheels not alligned with each other properly) or a ball joint (track rod end or swivel) that's stuffed. Be aware that it's points on your licence if you get stopped with bald tyres though.

Also, these days with MOTs being computerised, you might find yourself getting charged for a retest if your car fails on major items, since the garage has to do a full re-inspection, unless they (VOSA) change the system by then. So it's worth doing anything that you know will cause it to fail beforehand, unless the car's an old heap that isn't worth a light

 

If its the clutch try driveing up a steepish hill in a high gear and see if it slips. dnt try that too much thou cos it will also cause damaged to gearbox and engine if you do it too much
edit: plus as mentioned before how low to the floor do you have push the clutch pedle before the it disenages, if it very low then it on it way out.